Ascents in Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs

Smoke Bluffs Connection pitch 3.

Smoke Bluffs Connection pitch 4.

First crack climb, so much fun

slipped due to not having my TC Pros

The start is a little harder for a shortie!

Some awkward moves, but nice exposure! Makes for a memorable finish to the SBC.

Lead aid solo Approx 70mins lead, 60mins to clean including rock retrieved for the wires. Need to work on roof cleaning. Used floating 3rd et, not that useful

Last climb of day, toes sufferin

Lovely climb, unfortunately the approaching sun, crying child down low and road noise up high takes off a star. Reminds me how I loathe laybacking. Great climb, feels solid for .8

Increased grade due to 3rd pitch rated at 10b, and top of 4th pitch totally glassed out by gear drag - very little friction in the fist-crack!

Apart from the bolts a few nut placements. Thought would be another runout bolted climb in the bluffs but pretty reasonable, looking to red point on next visit to this area

Very fun steming and crack climbing with plenty of pro

Harder than the 5.9 at which is rated by Squamish standards. The two hand rails specially the second are 5.9ish (maybe the second one 5.10aish) but the flake on the step going up from one rail to the other is far harder than 5.9, being a 5.9 climber I think its easy to understate the power that takes going grabbing the right facing flake on the overhang after some hard moves before. In my mind a 10a, not the harderst 10a but and not an easy one at that.

Very fun link-up. I would say all the pitches are classics but Wonderland is the best pitch by far. Harder than the 5.9 at which is rated by Squamish standards. The two hand rails specially the second are 5.9ish (maybe the second one 5.10aish) but the flake on the step going up from one rail to the other is far harder than 5.9, being a 5.9 climber I think its easy to understate the power that takes going grabbing the right facing flake on the overhang after some hard moves before. In my mind a 10a, not the harderst 10a but and not an easy one at that.