Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Sep 2007 | ||||
Hard thin fingerlocks. Super sustained. WOW onsight!
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Sep 2015 | ||||
Fantastic finger splitter. Had to do another route a couple of times before I could get on as this was so busy. Deservedly so.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Jul 2017 | ||||
Thin locks smearing feet! Yeah!
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | |||||
Woohoo! Worth the wait.
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5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Sep 2015 | ||||
Saw a photo once of Croft soloing this. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I love finger cracks.
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Sep 2015 | ||||
Tricky with a wet start but didn't slip. Such a cool line. I love it.
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime - with Rose | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Nov 2018 | ||||
Start was seeping a bit, but most of the important bits were dry. Great fun first half, then a reprieve before some nice ring locks in the easier upper half.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Sep 2015 | ||||
A few wet spots added some excitement. Tech stemming
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Crazy john | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | ||||
10c in the guide. Thought the crux was over and then found the real crux...Placed a wire at the start of the corner, then another after the 2nd bolt.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Jul 2018 | ||||
Classic, tech slab open stem corner.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Aug 2018 | ||||
Quality granite stemming! Some gear required to protect the start (and possibly the very end) of this route. Most of the difficult climbing is bolt-protected, however.
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5.10d | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Evan Poulton | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
Excellent technical slab with stemming dihedral!
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven - with Meredith Apple | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
Perhaps the weirdest pitch I've ever climbed. Slab-ramp-stemming. Very tenuous.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★ The Ugly American | 25m | Squamish | Sat 25th Jul 2015 | |||||
Tricky start (read as: spicy off the deck) as is the theme amongst the cracks of Penny Lane. A good climb but nothing to Skype your Mum about.
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5.10a | ★ Health Hazard | 25m, 2 | Squamish | Fri 5th May 2017 | |||||
Not bad.
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5.10a | ★ The Ugly American - with VMS | 25m | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 1st Aug 2022 | ||||
nice and long crack
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Mar 2004 | ||||
awesome
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Jul 2008 | ||||
sa weet
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Sep 2007 | ||||
Smooth fun climbing!! It eats up nuts!
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th May 2007 | ||||
Incredibly fun! No anchors at top, +30m long.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Wow wow whee wow whoa! Awesome jamming
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5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
fun little moment around the bulge. caroline belayed
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
not as fun as everyone made out. caroline seconded but left some gear in for me to remove
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5.9 | ★★ Up Up and Away | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Sep 2011 | ||||
5.9, Clean
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | Thu 14th May 2015 | |||||
Bouldery start off the ground!!! But 5.5 for the rest of it.
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5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 25m | Squamish | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
Ok
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5.9 | ★★ Clandestine Affair | 25m | Squamish | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
OK. .10d direct start is hardcore.
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5.9 | ★★ Up Up and Away | 30m | Squamish | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | |||||
Full value 5.9!
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with Clara M | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 9th Jun 2016 | ||||
This thing just screams at you to be climbed as you walk up the approach trail. Climbs just as good as it looks too.
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5.9 | ★★ Up Up and Away - with Clara M | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Jun 2016 | ||||
Last cimb of the trip and a great way to finish. Super interesting and insecure finger crack up high.
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5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 25m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2017 | ||||
One quite hard move through roof, though arm span may have something to do with it
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
One funky move with a finger locks with slabby feet lead to a rambly upper with good jams. Belay from tree/natural pro, deacent anchor climbers left.
Wished I'd Brought more.nuts, it eats em.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with kate barraclough | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 23rd Aug 2018 | ||||
Superb climbing!
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Sep 2018 | ||||
Climbed wet
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
Protects well. Solid for the grade. Great crack climbing.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | ||||
Great climb, my first 5.9 on trad turned into a bit of an adventure once I've spent 20 minutes at the top looking for the anchor that doesn't exist. Used the tree at the top as the anchor which was a bit far for the 70 meter rope to fully lower to the ground. In the process the rope also got stuck leaving me 10 meters above ground. Managed to get to the lower belay station for a climb on the left and free the rope to be lowered from there.
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5.9 | ★★ Clandestine Affair | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | ||||
Fun and traversy.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | ||||
Deserving of the hype. Super fun and classy climbing throughout. Stoked Bec could join in on this one
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5.9 | ★★ Up Up and Away | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jul 2021 | ||||
Really nice climbing with a burly layback up top. Great! With Bec
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Aug 2016 | ||||
What a great climb
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with Jess C | 30m | Squamish | Fri 5th Aug 2022 | |||||
Nice moves the whole way up
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5.9 Hard | ★★★ Penny Lane - with Carleigh Burns | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | ||||
Super fun. A bit slippery
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5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice - with Jack Seawright, Maxwell Cullen | 25m | Squamish | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
roof move was engaging. Fun day with good people...
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with Meredith Apple | 30m | Squamish | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
First tie-in in Squamish, granite is slippery but jams be jugs, yo.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th May 2007 | ||||
Great climb up crack and flakes!
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Jul 2014 | ||||
Pleasant arching crack
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
Ok. Not Top 100 though.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Clara M | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Jun 2016 | ||||
Took a while to work this one out. Definitely needed some finess, but easy one you get it sorted.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with P Wypish | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Mar 2018 | ||||
Probably my best onsight to date, loved the line the good pro...awesome all the way around
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Jul 2018 | ||||
As good as it gets for the grade.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with kate barraclough | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 23rd Aug 2018 | ||||
Fantastic!
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | ||||
Great climb. Freaked out a little bit at the top as I've gone straight up instead of left and had to downclimb.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Char | 25m | Squamish | Mon 10th Aug 2020 | |||||
Spicy
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | Sun 7th Aug 2016 | |||||
I remember finding this one pretty tough!
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Jun 2021 | ||||
With Bec
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Oct 2022 | ||||
The onsight of this classic it's a turning point of my young trad climbing career! The beginning is not protectable for a couple of metres and involves one tricky move. Then the long crack which is not very hard but somehow for me was the most stressful part do the route. Crux is vertical climbing so I felt confident, even though the last protection is already way underyou. Save small silver for the crux. A nice crack to finish.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Neha | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Great holds the whole way! Transition into the left leaning crack was the crux for me. Upper crack was fun!
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Alex Battaglia | 25m | Squamish | Fri 17th May 2024 | |||||
Lovely fun. Diagonal slab cracks confuse me tho
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5.11a | ★ Power Windows | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2017 | ||||
I was to busy whimpering on slab traverse and run out arête with wind buffeting me to fall off
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5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Aug 2018 | ||||
Very very fun. Good stemming, and "sportingly bolted". I wouldn't call this a sport route.
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5.10a Hard | ★ The Ugly American - with Meredith Apple | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
Hard off the deck then easy for ages up to a harder-than-you-want mantle topout.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Aug 2018 | ||||
Slippery crux, otherwise quality movement.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane - with Alex Battaglia | 30m | Squamish | Fri 17th May 2024 | |||||
Such a beautiful crack! Hard little layback at the start. So many rests
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Sep 2017 | ||||
A great hand crack with a couple of cool roof moves near the end. Bring doubles of #1 and #0.75 cams.
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman - with Meredith Apple | 25m | Squamish | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
Awesome juggy laybacking up a cool line.
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5.13a | ★ The Curver | 28m | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 1st Nov 2021 | ||||
First ever 13a.
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Thu 8th Mar 2018 | |||||
Finally bagged the redpoint for my first 5.12b/26 trad send. Psyched!
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Tue 20th Mar 2018 | |||||
Amazing how easy something can feel after you've redpointed it.
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5.12b | ★★★ Sunny Days In December | 35m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Mar 2019 | ||||
Awesome route. Very specific beta. Trad, 2 bolts. 5.12c in new guide book.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Wed 27th Apr 2016 | |||||
Happy to redpoint this today. Sewed it up down low and ended up having to run out the last third to the ledge and chains!
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Tue 10th May 2016 | |||||
Repeat red point on nuts! Croft style
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Thu 31st Aug 2017 | |||||
x2 laps. Stout warmup
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Mon 11th Sep 2017 | |||||
Warm-up x2. Redpoint then TR lap.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Tue 26th Sep 2017 | |||||
Warm-up
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Tue 20th Mar 2018 | |||||
Part of my warm-up for Pet Wall.
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5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper | 25m | Squamish | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | |||||
A very classic finger crack. Spent ages on the rest before tackling the final crux. Stoked for the send.
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5.11b | Jangling Ball Wall | 30m | Squamish | Mon 11th Sep 2017 | |||||
Tough for the grade. Probably more like 11b
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5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper - with Soren | 25m | Squamish | Tue 4th Jun 2024 | |||||
Felt much better on the second go
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | Squamish | Thu 29th Jun 2017 | |||||
Finishing up someone else's mess.
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | Squamish | Mon 11th Sep 2017 | |||||
Redpoint + TR lap.
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5.11a | ★ Power Windows | 20m | Squamish | Mon 19th Mar 2018 | |||||
Second try.
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | Squamish | Thu 19th Mar 2020 | |||||
Fitness lead lap x2
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5.10d | ★★ Climb and Punishment (Climb and Punishment (aka Crime and Punishment?)) | 20m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Sep 2018 | ||||
First half of climb covered in wasps
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | Squamish | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
Great friction stemming. A nice climb for sure.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jun 2009 | ||||
beautiful, tree belay is a bad choice!
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | Wed 13th Apr 2016 | |||||
Best 5.9 in Squamish
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | Wed 27th Apr 2016 | |||||
Took Eleanor up this as her last climb of the day. Good times.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | Tue 20th Mar 2018 | |||||
Warm-up
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th May 2023 | ||||
2nd. Classic route
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | |||||
Repeat of a classic route. Climbing the seep directly after rain added a grade for sure!
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | |||||
This route is real but seems like it would go on a good friction day with fresh rubber and sanded tips. Not sure how you'd place the gear though ha-ha
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Mon 13th Mar 2017 | |||||
New proj before it gets sunny
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Thu 31st Aug 2017 | |||||
It's almost the season for this route although this crag is definitely a sun trap.
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5.12b | Kahoukers | 25m | Squamish | Tue 20th Nov 2018 | |||||
2x fitness laps
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
blue stopper, then .50 camalot, the rest of it is nuts and aliens, dont forget the nice pinch toward the top
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
first nut placement is smaller than first thought. Blue omega. Remember that where it feels a little flared up top it will soon give you a nice pinch then easier finish.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Sun 31st May 2015 | |||||
I have all the gear beta for fellow top-rope-the-shit-out-of-this red pointers. Small gold BD wire, .75 C4, 2 x .3 C4s, couple of .5s and .4s… then a little purple BD wire before the split and run that fucker out to the top!
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | |||||
Two hangs on the dog-lead! Will redpoint this next time.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Fri 15th Apr 2016 | |||||
Whipped off.
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5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | |||||
Putting the rope up on Kahoukers.
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