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Tantalus Wall

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.10d
2 5.11a
3 5.9
4 5.10b
5 5.11c
6 5.11a
7 5.11c
8 5.11a
9 5.10c
10 5.11a
11 5.10a R
12 5.10d

This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.

  1. P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d). Most people avoid this pitch now by pulling up a fixed rope.

  2. P2, Begin at the tree, Steep corner with two bolts to bolted belay (11a).

  3. P3, climb daylight crack 5.9

  4. P4, traverse down and right along a slopey ledge to a bolted belay. 5.10b

  5. P5, climb the long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).

  6. P6, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).

  7. P7, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).

  8. P8, The autobahn, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).

  9. P9, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).

  10. P10, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).

  11. P11, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).

  12. P12, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).

Fixed anchors at every belay.

Express Lane is the preferred finish and breaks off at P8.

1 5.11a
2 5.10c
  1. P1. 5.11a Start as for P8 of Freeway, step down to L-facing corner then up and left to belay on arete.

  2. P2. 5.10c Follow arete up past a couple of bolts and some trad, to belay as for P10 of Freeway, can be linked with P11 of Freeway.

Traversing undercling crack to reach the base of Cerberus. Marc-Andre's a sandbagger!

FA: Marky Mark

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 29 Apr
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