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Route in Butt Light

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.8
7 5.7

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010

Mixed trad 190m, 7, 4

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