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Quagmire Area Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 17

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jose Mosre Grand Chung Boer Nick Baggaley Seb Oliver lee john mcclean Lewis Emily

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Quagmire Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.683081, -123.156187

description

The large face in the central part of the Malamute, many excellent crack climbs can be found here.

access issues

From the Squamish Access Society website: District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”

From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.

approach

The area can be accessed by either rappeling down The Clearing on the right side, or Quagmire Crack dividing the smooth wall on the left

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quagmire crack

Rap in off of Jacobs Wall to a ledge, then rap down another 40m to the base of Quagmire Crack. a boulder start leads to a finger to offwidth crack back to mid ledge then out by Jacobs ladder or one of the other slab routes on "Jacobs Wall"

5.10c Trad 40m
2 Sodfancier's Delight 5.10d Trad 61m, 2
3 Fungus Razor 5.12b Trad 30m
4 Canadian Compromise 5.10a Trad 27m
5 Id, The Wizard of Trad 30m
6 Id 5.10b Trad
7 Renaissance Man 5.11b A0 Unknown 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.10a Canadian Compromise Trad 27m
5.10b Id Trad
5.10c Quagmire crack Trad 40m
5.10d Sodfancier's Delight Trad 61m, 2
5.11b A0 Renaissance Man Unknown 4
5.12b Fungus Razor Trad 30m
? Id, The Wizard of Trad 30m
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