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Route as trad in Adagio

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.9 Adagio
1 5.7
2 5.6
3 5.6
4 5.9

This is the first line climbed at at the cliff. Super exposed traverse moves while keeping the grade low. P2 and 3 are traverse pitches and it is advised to protect the route while thinking of your second.

(1. original - climb dirty ledges and cracks a few meters right of "Persistance",s first pitch (described above), until you can step left to the bolted anchor on the small ledge.)

  1. 5.7 The usual choice, now (cleaner and more interesting climbing) is to climb the first pitch of "Persistance": climb the 2nd dihedral right of "Biorythme" to the cracks in the orange dihedral. At the big triangular roof, traverse out right to the belay ledge.

  2. 5.6 Step around the ledge to a super aerial chimney move, then follow the crack for a few moves until you can make your way across to the right. Suggested belay on the large flake just before the vertical crack that goes to the roof. Keep a #3 if you can.

  3. 5.6 The money shot pitch (unless you started on Persistance)! Climb the easy crack leading to the roof and traverse right with careful footwork. Bolted anchor after the traverse.

  4. 5.9 Clip a piton and make your way up using the arete. There are about 4 moves of hardly protectable climbing leading to a hike to the anchor.

Descent: scramble up from the top of the cliff to the path, then hike leftwards and down a (class 3) gulley to the left of the wall.

Trad 80m, 4

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