Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 — 2 attempts - with 小高 | 14 | |||||
第一条12
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5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 - with 小高 | 17m, 8 | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with 小高 | 16m, 6 | |||||
第一条11
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c |
★★ Road Rage 路怒
- with
蛋蛋
1
5.10d
15m
2
5.11c
14m
| 29m, 8 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ The Root of All Evil - with 摸鱼专业户 | 20m, 9 | |||||
Tue 5th Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 流水线 - with 蒋俊文 | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The fisrt 5.13 one i sent .no limit to climb beyond ur ability but mentality.
What i suprised to myself that i challenge myself get though the crux and clip in after ,by underneathe waist.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.7 ~5.9 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | |||||
Fri 1st Dec 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C - with 阿基米德的洗浴池 | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a/b | Gear on ★★ 铁扇公主 — 6 attempts - with reiko climber | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
国庆来爬这条线还觉得难到不行上不去,用了两个周末找到了好的beta,这次周末4把红了。找到好的beta还是轻松不少的。
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5.13b | ★★ 牛尾 — 4 attempts - with cj | ||||||
印象深刻的难点,可能有v5v6
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5.10d |
★★ Road Rage 路怒 P1
- with
元军
1
5.10d
15m
| 15m, 8 | |||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 - with 元军 | 17m, 8 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) | 17m, 7 | |||||
Tue 21st Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | |||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 金不换 - with 小庄老师 | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
一条温柔的小三段线路,很可爱
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5.13b | ★★★ 流水线 - with 蛋蛋 | 25m, 12 | |||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C — 2 attempts - with 阿基米德的洗浴池, CJ | 18m, 11 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) - with reiko climber | 17m, 7 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C - with reiko climber | 18m, 11 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ 金不换 - with reiko climber | 22m, 10 | |||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego - with 乐乐熊 | 15m | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with 摸鱼专业户 | 16m, 6 | |||||
Thu 5th Oct 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Root of All Evil | 20m, 9 | |||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong — 2 attempts - with 骁 | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
正常的,快乐的
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
没斗志,划水
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a ~5.10d | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with 坨坨 | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
第一把没发现屋檐上面的大洞能反提,错失on线机会
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Wed 27th Sep 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with 奶妈 | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 — 2 attempts - with 闻香 | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with 闻香 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego — 6 attempts | 15m | |||||
Fri 18th Aug 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 金不换 — 2 attempts | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful face route intermitted by a tufa rest. Easy to read, and well protected. Good for people entering the grade. Definitely worth a climb.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 — 2 attempts | 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Aesthetic endurance line that mixes a bouldery start, an overhanging first section that traverses a huge portion of the wall, after which you need to exit the main roof, and deal with the crux of the route. Five stars for me
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5.11b | ★★ 牛A | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Niu A was originally graded 5.11D and then downgraded to 5.11B in the last guide book. Not sure when people started calling this a 5.11A 🤷♂️ I love how everyone downgrades everything, but when there’s need for upgrades, they don’t want to, and they talk about respecting the guy who did the first ascent.
For my height, the crux feels really uncomfortable and definitely not 11A. I didn’t find it any easier than Niu C (which originally was a 5.12A)
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5.10a | ★ Mop Head | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
No onsight as I already climbed the direct start variation
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
過了一年再爬這條變好輕鬆哦
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5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 - with Guan-Wei Chen | 14 | |||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with Dino, EDDYGG, 蛋蛋 | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
warm-up
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 牛A | 18m, 10 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C — 2 attempts | 18m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego - with 浩韬 | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
从右边红点的,左边相对容易些,如果手臂不够,可以左脚踩高一点(裂缝外一个很突出的点)右手抓住裂缝,右脚一蹬,稍微发一点点力就可以够着上面圆形大洞。(手臂长的可忽略)。右边有很多小脚点,稍微留一下就好了,动作比走左边要丰富些。
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5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 5th Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C | 18m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It shares an overhanging traverse and a good rest with NiuZa, and it then proceeds upward through a ceiling flip and a crimpy finale. Excellent route
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ 铁扇公主 | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit hard when it's 37 degrees and your hands slide off the jugs while you are clipping. More pumpy and intense than ShuiJi
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5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Almost had a sun stroke during my first attempt. Sent smoothly after the temperature cooled down
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Alter Ego — 7 attempts - with XIN怡 | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
只有一步很难
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego - with 娜娜 | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 | 14 | |||||
Tried it many years ago . Retro flash
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c R | ★★ Road Rage 路怒 — 3 attempts - with 小牛, 佳乐, zhuoxin, 白雪 | 39m, 8 | |||||
显然比隔壁金不换,水脊,铁扇公主难,和香港东龙岛的bad girl并列我爬过最硬的10
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5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Alter Ego - with 小牛, 佳乐, zhuoxin, 白雪 | 15m | |||||
10a无疑
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.13b | ★★ 牛尾 — 6 attempts | ||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10d |
★★ Road Rage 路怒 P1
- with
reiko climber
1
5.10d
15
| 15m, 8 | |||||
really nice route
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with 帅哥 | 16m, 6 | |||||
5.12b Easy | ★★ 开幕式 — 3 attempts - with 大坝 | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
臂展够的话会简单很多
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5.12b | ★★ 开幕式 — 2 attempts - with 阿基米德的洗浴池 | 22m, 8 | |||||
Mon 27th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 牛A | 18m, 10 | |||||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 — 3 attempts | 14 | |||||
Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12b Hard | ★★ 开幕式 | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux at the bottom. Make sure to clip the second bolt before you get into it.
The holds are very few, very small and as sharp as knives.
I found two successful betas: one climbing from the right side and traversing left with a long shoulder move from a horrible hold. The other one climbing staying on the left side, doing a super balancy move where I have to heel hook with my right foot and toe hook with my left foot using an inexistent undercling just to reach the “good” crimp.
My partner decided to go straight up with a semi dynamic move and then traverse left. Regardless the beta we chose, we both agree that every single one feels like a V5 Boulder problem, which makes the climb hard for the grade. There might be some easier solution but couldn’t try anything different due to poor skin conditions.
The rest of the route flows beautifully till the top.
There’s also a second crux at the middle of the route, so if you manage to stick the first one, don’t mess it up or you will have to go through the pain one more time
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 7 attempts - with gong heqing, 白雪, tommy | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1月3日顶绳分了3把,这次去直接先锋分了三把,后两把反提指洞找不到挂快挂的姿态冲坠,最后都心灰意冷了抢了一把总算红了这条线。算是自己头一次磕线,大部分时间自己都在跟自己的心理作斗争,每次爬线前都要跟自己说好多句“我可以”,龚老师非常慷慨激昂的给我鼓励,一直跟我说我的能力远远cover这条线,某种程度上极大增强了我的自信,所以才能一天内爬了三把都不过还能有勇气在最后一把的时候坚持住红线!!!!感谢龚老师,也感谢白雪、Tommy的鼓励,还要谢谢bobo帮我拍视频!!!爬完之后看视频的时候也感概水脊真的是一条好线,难点处不同人有各自的beta,而且难度都不会差太大!
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5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 — 2 attempts | 17m, 8 | |||||
两把速通,感觉比水脊稍微难一点点
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with 泽龙 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
当天上午在万恶之源线路上挂线冲了几次后, 对冲坠的心理负担少了很多, 中午尝试了一把水脊, 在 knee 的时候第一时间没 knee 住, 心里慌了下, 掉了, 下午爬了几把其他线后, 再试下水脊,, 终于红了, 感谢保护员以及小伙伴们在下面打气!
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong - with 二哥 | 15m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 10th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | |||||
Tue 7th Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 — 2 attempts | 17m, 8 | |||||
Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a ~5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) Extension - with Maksim Komarov | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A traversing extension to Big Temple’s most popular 5.10. Great exposure, as the route follows the lip of the high cave ceiling. I climbed the 5.10 section last year. Soft.
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Wed 1st Feb 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12d ~5.12d | ★ 梦想 - with Maksim Komarov | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Interesting balance moves in the first half, and an awesome, exposed, fingery ceiling flip above the rest ledge. Graded 5.13a on old and new topos. To me, it felt like it could be a 5.12+. I should note that techy face cruxes are my preferred style and strength, that I am tall, and that I worked the route while on a multi-week stint of constant climbing on similar limestone. Whatever the grade, it remains that 梦想 offers beautiful features and superb flow.
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 - with RoyXu | 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ditto to Maks’ comment
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5.11c | ★★★ 牛C - with Nicole | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11a | ★★ 牛A - with Nicole | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with Vince Zhang, MayMay | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 20th Jan 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 - with Nicole | 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It’s definitely one of my favorite routes I’ve tried so far, beautiful aesthetically from the outside view and feelings once you climb it. It’s long, it’s different, it’s soft on your skin, it’s really calling you to climb it again and again. True piece of art and a true pleasure
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ 开幕式 — 4 attempts - with wudeng | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
起步难点,后面需要一点耐力,中间还有一个挂脚的小难点。
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Sun 25th Dec 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) Extension - with Guan-Wei Chen | ||||||
刚开始翻3层楼那里是个难点。目睹了岩友为了稳定卡脚进洞,掉落后扭到脚的危险操作,个人觉得,能力没有把握,不建议先锋尝试。
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5.11a/b | ★★ 铁扇公主 — 4 attempts - with Jingjie Wu, Ava | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
harder than 水脊
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5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) — 2 attempts - with Jingjie Wu, Ava | 17m, 7 | |||||
good
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Sat 24th Dec 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | Gear on ★★★ 水脊 — 5 attempts - with Jingjie Wu, Guan-Wei Chen | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
人生第一条5.11A,感谢保护员Kathy和冠玮,best Christmas gift ever.
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5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 — 2 attempts - with Jingjie Wu, Ava | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
classic route
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Sun 11th Dec 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 流水线 | 25m, 12 | |||||
Mon 5th Dec 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 流水线 - with Bobo@Mental Rock climbing cafe | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
前前后后摸过好几次,终于赶在年底收关红了,线路整体有点偏软,主要是找到合适自己的beta。
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 牛C | 18m, 11 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 牛A | 18m, 10 | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | |||||
Tue 25th Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 17th Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with 大坝 | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
攀岩一年终于升了数字了!心态还是很重要的!去完阳朔回来先锋一把就红点了!!
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) - with 蛋蛋 | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 水脊 - with Bobo | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.7 | ★ 大庙1 | 16m, 7 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ 大庙2 | 15m, 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ 金刚波 King Kong | 15m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Alter Ego | 15m | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Mop Head (Direct Start) | 17m, 7 | |||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - 清远英西 YingXi | |||||||
公正村 大庙周边 大庙 Big Temple Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 牛A - with Irene020 | 18m, 10 |