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Routes in 公正村 大庙周边

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Showing all 80 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
白璧 White crag
?

和右边的线路“白璧1”共起步

Sport
5.11c/d 白壁1

FA: Calvin & Cheng Xie Wei, 2007

Sport 17m, 9
5.8 Magic Slippers
Sport 9m, 4
5.8 Toto
Sport 10m, 6
5.12a 三岔口(Forked Road)

A rename collection activity of wizard of oz. up to 3rd.Dec 2023.the final rename( in list more 10 opotions by other climbers who onsight or red this cool route) selected by Weicheng Xie,who bolted it and F.A. climber. Chinese name【三岔口/Forked Road】 in English translation 白壁6号线5.12a这条美丽线路由于长期没名字,故举办重名命活动由开线者以及首攀者谢卫成最后选出将线路冠以名字。最终由他选定了【三岔口】,感谢大家提供&继续攀爬(❁´ω`❁)

↓截止前有以下名字提供: 一步之遥 煎蛋 锦鲤 师傅 丢失的钟乳lost tufa 神奈川冲浪 黑角斑马 烧鸡 三岔口 胆怯的狮子Cowardly Lion 勇敢的鸡Brave Chicken

FA: Cheng Xie Wei & Calvin, 2007

Sport 21m
5.12c Orangina

FA: Eman & Monica, 2006

Sport 21m
5.11c Yellow Brick Road
Sport 22m, 11
5.12a 伸手就有

This new route has been added on the right of yellow brick road

FA: 阿锐

Set: KK

Sport 22m
5.8 Original Route
Trad 28m
5.9 Only in China
1 5.7 25m
2 5.8 2m
3 5.8 22m
4 5.9 15m
Trad 64m, 4
5.9 Oktoberfest

All bolts (hangers)was taken down by local goverment found (by Bobo&one climber)on23rd.Dec.2023 2023年12月23日早上发现挂片全被(本地政府请的吊机)拧走(螺栓仍在岩壁上),【黄花镇公正村委会示】

Sport 8m, 3
5.11a 未知线路-1

All bolts (hangers)was taken down by local govermnet found on23rd.Dec.2023 2023年12月23日早上发现挂片全被(本地政府请的吊机)拧走(螺栓仍在岩壁上),【黄花镇公正村委会示】

Sport 5
5.12a 绞肉机

All bolts (hangers)was taken down by local govermnet found (by Bobo&one climber)on23rd.Dec.2023 2023年12月23日早上发现挂片全被(本地政府请的吊机)拧走(螺栓仍在岩壁上),【黄花镇公正村委会示】

FA: Calvin, 2006

Sport 8
5.10b 不忘初心
1 5.10a
2 5.10b

√第一段5.10a;

√第二段5.10b;

第一段平台向左走是不忘初心,右边是I'll get you my pretty;

Sport 2
5.9 I'll get you my pretty
1 5.9
2 5.9
Sport 2
5.10b 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony)

The day they climbed & met local worker hired by goverment moving the fence down and tring to closed some area.so named it 闭幕式(Closing Ceremony) 由开线人转述:当日上午还在爬,下午在开线。由一工作车受雇于(政府)正在卸下绿色围栏,当时还不知道具体要围成怎样,可惜之余无奈无法沟通,不知道将来如何,故以【闭幕式】命运当日情景

Set: 雨川, 13 Dec 2023

FA: 野马, 13 Dec 2023

Sport 12m, 5
5.10a Sensible shoes
Sport 3
5.11a Flying Monkey Business
Sport 22m
5.10b 新年快乐
1 5.10b
2 5.10a
3 5.10a

P1: Share the first pitch with Flying Monkey Business.

P2: 5.10a, 9 quickdraws, 25m;

P3: 5.10a, 11 quickdraws, 32m.

建议使用65m以上的绳子。

FA: Bobo & 雨川, Dec 2021

Set: 袁天, Dec 2021

Sport 77m, 3
5.11c Lions, Tigers and Bears Oh My !
Sport 22m, 8
5.8 Dyslexia
Sport 22m, 8
5.10b 虎虎生威
1 5.10a
2 5.9
3 5.10a
4 5.9
5 5.10b

P1: 5.10a, 7 bolts + anchor, 20m, first pitch is shared with Dyslexia ;

P2: 5.9, 5 bolts + anchor, 20m;

P3: 5.10a, 7 bolts + anchor, 20m;

P4: 5.9, 11 bolts + anchor, 35m;

P5: 5.10b, 14 bolts + anchor, 35m.

Set: 野人

Sport 130m, 5
5.9 Lysdexia
Sport 22m, 7
right-unnamed

未出现在路书中,在钟乳左边

Sport 4
5.10 unknown

just on the right of Lysdexia, starting point a meter above the Lysdexia ground. don't remember exact number of quickdraws, but would say around 8. height probably 15m. many bushes with thorns on top, cleaned it a bit, but still some.

Sport 15m, 8
大庙 Big Temple Crag
5.7 大庙1
Sport 16m, 7
5.8 大庙2
Sport 15m, 4
5.7 Crusty P1
Sport 15m, 6
5.10b Crusty
1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.10b
4 5.8
5 5.10b

Some good climbing among a lot of bad climbing. Very sharp in places.

Set: Paul Collis, 2008

Sport 100m, 5
5.9 Godless Thieves
1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.9
4 5.8

Shares first two pitches with Crusty.

Then traverse left 4m from the top of the the 2nd pitch of Crusty to a two bolt belay.

FA: Paul Collis & Benjack Phillips, 2011

Sport 4
5.8 Name???
1 5.7
2 5.7
3 5.8

FA: Paul Collis & Benjack Phillips, 2009

Trad 41m, 3
5.10a 金刚波 King Kong

A nice little steep route.

Set: A Sing

FA: Bo Jung, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
5.9 Alter Ego
Sport 15m
5.11a 水脊

Set: Zeng Zhongwen & Qin Minghui, 2006

Sport 16m, 6
5.10a Mop Head

FA: Paul Collis & Rossie Tam, 2007

Sport 17m, 7
5.11a/b 铁扇公主

原起步不可用,现在起步同 Mop Head (Direct Start) ,难度为11ab左右。

Sport 17m, 8
5.10c Mop Head (Direct Start)
Sport 17m, 7
5.11a Mop Head (Direct Start) Extension

上面P2难度5.10a 右边P2难度5.11a The 5.11a extension goes right, and finishes above the ceiling.

Sport
5.11a 牛A
Sport 18m, 10
5.11c 牛C
Sport 18m, 11
5.12a 牛杂
Sport 14
5.13b 牛尾

FA: 2014

Sport
5.13b 流水线
Sport 25m, 12
5.11c R Road Rage 路怒
1 5.10d 15m
2 5.11c 14m
3 5.10 R 10m

Bolts: 7, 8, 2 Run out

前两段的顶都在平台上,可以保护的比较舒适。

Sport 39m, 3, 8
5.11c 金不换

FA: Chen Zhiwen

Set: Xie Weicheng, 2010

Sport 22m, 10
5.13a 梦想

FA: 2010

Sport 22m, 9
5.12b 开幕式
Sport 22m, 8
Project?

On top of the small tree. Do no climb.

Sport
5.10b The Root of All Evil
Sport 20m, 9
5.8 Five Tree

Same start as The Root of All Evil.

Sport 28m
Closed 金壁 The Golden Wall
5.11d Solid Gold
Sport
5.11c Gold Rush
Sport
5.11d Selfish
Sport
5.12a No Name
Sport
5.10b Skeleton Corner

FA: 2007

Sport
5.10d Cracktastic

Can be climbed trad.

Sport
Closed Project
SportProject
5.11b Holy Saturday
Sport
5.9 The Midas Touch
Sport
Open Project
SportProject
5.8 Silk Purse
Sport
5.8 Fool's Gold
Sport
5.8 Buried Treasure
Sport
No Name Mountain
5.9 Dangerous Liaisons
1 5.8 32m
2 5.9 32m
3 5.9 36m
Trad 100m, 3
兴华祖庙 The Jungle Book
5.9 King of the Jungle

FA: 2010

Sport 26m, 12
5.10b Tarzan
1 5.8 12m
2 5.10b 19m
Sport 31m, 2
5.7 Lost in the Jungle
Trad 12m
5.10a King of the Swingers
Sport 19m
5.10a Kaa
Sport 20m
5.10b Bear Necessities
Sport 21m
5.10b Bedtime Stories
Sport 14m
5.9 Hard Times
Trad 14m
5.8 Jungle Drums
Sport 14m
5.9 King Louie
Sport 15m
5.9/10a Global Meltdown
Sport 15m
5.7 Survival of the Fattest
Sport 13m
5.10b Snacks and Ladders
Sport
5.9 Mad Dogs
Sport
Bullshit Crag
5.10c Singing in the Rain
Sport 10m, 6
5.10d Drilling in the Rain
Sport 10m, 6

Showing all 80 routes.

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