Ascents in 新岩场 New Crag

砂岩点不多，对小白可能不友好

砂岩点不算多，可能会吃臂展

抱树

到顶前没点了，感觉是爆了

感觉比旁边的12a难不少

Probably easier than 5.12d, or maybe I found a good beta 😁 it’s surely harder than the 5.12c on the same crag. A lot of fun! Big bouldery moves!

If you are short ( less then 170) there are 3 reachy moves at the start, and the crux at the roof big Dyno from a heal hook….. if you are tall, than could be an 11 B…

Tricky start, one big move to a good hold, and balancy finish

This climb was made for me. I'm tall and the holds are reachy. At the top there is a very nice boulder problem that might be a bit scary for some. Definitely worth trying it.

Took me way too many attempts to send this one. A big move at the 3rd last bolt with no view of your feet made it a tricky one.

There is a mono that you can use on the crux. Luckily I am tall enough so I could reach past it. A big move though.

Very dirty

Heel hooking and roof jug hauling. Good fun !

Bottom part is average. But the upper face is very nice, with small holds and dynamic moves.

Second go. Bouldery moves on good holds with crazy heel hooking actions. Grade to be confirmed

A first crux with a long reach from an undercling. Followed by a couple of two finger pockets. Great bouldery climb.

A definite crux at the top that requires a bit of comitment.

Bouldery start, followed by a very delicate crux at the top.

Bouldery and sustained climbing all the way up.

Steep climbing on good holds leads to a punishing dyno on hidden features.

A good sustained steep climb. Long moves on big holds.