Routes in 白山地区 White Mountain Crags

From the top of Grandfathered In P3, climb up a short P4 to a small ledge. Then continue straight up and through the overhanging nose with an anchor at the very tip of the prow above you. The route then continues up to join with Grandfathered In at the P5/P6 belay. This pitch is the reason why Grandfathered IN was developed. Overhung, slab, and weird beta... good route.

From the top of Grandfathered In P4, traverse left out along the edge of the nose to finish at the belay near the tip. (same belay as for Old School). continue straight up to join grandfathered In.

VERY IMPORTANT! Descent : Do not abseil the top two pitches of this route ! While facing the anchor and with your back toward the climbing: throw your rope at the 4:00 O'clock angle and abseil 22m to a hanging belay nestled on some white rock. continue straight downt he wall for 2 more abseils arriving at the anchor above P4.

Technical climbing

The 1st pitch is technical climbing on small holds.

Extension of Chocolate Milk Crack.

Steep bouldery start

Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. 7 bolts for each pitch.

1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels.

This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m.

The big holds are on the left. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice.

Shares the start with Pumpy Brewster.

Shares the start with Sha Bi Abi.

Excellent quality technical climbing, don't be put off by the tricky start!

Shares the start with Consolation Prize.

Hard thin face climbing up the pillar right of Final Decade. Shares the start and the chain with Final Decade.

Excellent face climbing, long moves on small holds.

Just to the right of Chuck If Ya Want To lies this sweet and short rookie climb inside the cave.

there are 2 sets of anchors in the cave, 1 for this short route and the other for toproping the "chimney"

Keep left going around the roof, on the right it’s Way down east 11b

Continue past the anchor of PLR for another 4 bolts to the anchor. Steeper climbing on good holds.

The natural line climbs into Rooster Booster then around the roof and is around 10b/c.

Starts to the left next to Alice in Wonderland. 4 bolts to chains and a bit wet in places.

Scarier than it looks. Could be creeping onto 5.9 because of the blank space. Do not be fooled by the grade, requires lots of careful movement.

The roof section is probably a bit harder than 10b.

The tallest of the new 3 lines. Very fun! The route says 10 b but it's probably a 10 c.

Only one hard move. Overall very fun climb.

Shares the start with Chicken Run.

Cranking fun!

ends in the cave at the top of the wall.

An impressive line up the middle of the buttress.

1st Pitch 5.12b, 42 m, 8 bolts. 2nd Pitch 5.13a, 30m, 5 bolts. 3rd Pitch 5.12a, 50m, 9 bolts. 4th Pitch 5.10b, 25m, no bolts.

1st Pitch 5.10a, 30m, 5 bolts. 2nd Pitch 5.10c, 15m, 4 bolts. 3rd Pitch 5.12b, 38m, 10 bolts. 4th Pitch 5.10d, 5 bolts.

1st pitch: 5.8+, 27m. 2nd pitch 5.9, 25m.

The 3 pitches can be linked together if you don't mind rope drag, however its more fun to climb and belay at each pitch to enjoy the view.

P1 5.10a P2 5.10c P3 5.12b P4 5.10d

P1 5.8 P2 5.10b P3 5.10d P4 5.11a

Same start as Virgin Sacrifice, it then moves right. Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's).

Not rated so if you climb it make sure to give your opinion about the grade. Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's).

Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's).

Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's).

Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's).

First route on the left side of the cave

直上版本

Scramble through caves to find the start.

Open Project

Branches off Spicy Noodle.

起步同辣米粉，中间小洞休息处往右直上

起步同中国攀，2把快挂后往右切

Direct start to 中国传奇 Cuento Chino and 完美高潮 Happy End

Open project

扯蛋的左边，一条细细的水迹，浑然天成，状似出没白山岩壁的小青蛇。目前无首攀。难度估计5.14b以上

Sparse bolting in upper half, the new grade might not represent the true difficulty.

扯蛋的延长线

短而硬

无耻的法国人在难点处打了个双指洞，留下阳朔唯一的人工点。YYDS沙马找到新动作，不用人工指洞完成了这条漂亮的线路，于是名字也由American Gangster（源自电影《美国黑帮》）改为法国流氓

和韩国一号共起步，难点处利用右边的平台和脚点爬上去难度会直降一个数字

Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White.