Showing all 91 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Olive Groove | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Uprising — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got it pretty easily afterwards, even using the direct beta to the pocket at the top May be the last 5.12 of this excellent trip!!
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7b+ | ★★ Torellis Toys - with Chrissy | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such a great bouldery route for the first six bolts, but it doesn't really relent after! Big moves, but more straightforward, afterwards. Will try to come back for it soon!
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Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Morphic Fields Ext — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy climbing followed by steep bad pockets and big moves. Hard first half. Second half I thought was heady. Cool nonetheless!
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7b | ★★★ I'd Even Grow a Moustache for You Ext. - with Chrissy | 42m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super dooper line!! Flowy first half followed by pumpy big moves, including a hard cool rose move on the second. I messed up the top by going the wrong way but otherwise had it in the bag!!! Nooooo but will come back eventually for it.
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6c+ | ★★★ I'd Even Grow a Moustache for You - with Chrissy | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent, flowy, varied and at times thought provoking climbing. Get on it!
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - Kyparissi | ||||||
Watermill | ||||||
6c+ - 7a+ | ★★★ Kyparissi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent way to start the day! Pumpy climbing on a tufa to a rest, then 3D climbing to clip the anchors!
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7c/c+ | ★★★ Jerome the Gangster - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
OMG, what a climb!! I did it as the last climb of the day, and how I wish I would have tried it sooner! I did get on the first two bolts early on in the day, but downclimbed as I thought it was out of reach. After seeing Matt onsight it, and Igor try it, I decided to give it a go. Took it to the last bolt before falling! Pumpy, bouldery first section involving compressing on a slopey tufa, followed by kneebar after kneebar, ending with a very hard sequence with bad holds where bolts are hard to clip. Found a left hand way of topping out. I wish I could go back and send this!
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7b | ★★★ Myros — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A bouldery, crimpy bottom section followed by kneebar rests, followed by pumpy climbing, followed by kneebar rests, takes it to the top. Didn't get the crimpy start the first try, was unexpectedly hard!
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7a/a+ ~7a+ | ★★★ Thanks George - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Greece is amazing, and Kyparissi is gorgeous! Probably the nicest crag we've visited in this trip to Leonidio. This physical, stalictite and tufa-riddled climb has a lower pumpy crux followed by easier 3D climbing. Happy to get it first go! 7a+ in the guidebook.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Liméri | ||||||
7a+ | ★ Fesi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Similar in nature to its next-door neighbor, but with a less sustained nature, and trickier crux. It also has some exposed bits that are somewhat insecure to clip. Satisfying send, but probably not the greatest techy climb in the world
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7a+ | ★★ Koutornithi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stoked to get this first try! Very techy and fingery, but engaging and interesting. Beware of loose block, which adds a bit of difficulty by having to avoid it.
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6b | ★★ Bolzenfresser - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Chill stemming up a groovy dihedral. Used it to take some shots of Selene's climb. Great views of the monastery!
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Le Piliers de Bar - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Without having the guidebook, we figured this tufa-riddled climb would be a suitable warm-up. After Chrissy almost got the OS, I went up with double kneepads, and barely made it up the final mantle, with a banging headache, too. 7a seems harsh. Had to try more than other 7a+, so I think that should be the correct grade (guidebook says so as well). Stoked to get it first go!
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Olive Groove | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Uprising - with Chrissy | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I had OS vibes going... But dropped it making a silly mistake at the crux. I got on immediately and took it to the house. Damn it!!
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6c+/7a | ★★★ Fun and Fuck - with Chrissy | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent pumpy, powerful climbing on interesting pockets. Great stuff!
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6c+ | ★★ S.O.K. Ext - with Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Winding down the day on this chill climb with a cool roof and very techy balancy and crimpy crux exit!
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6c+ | ★★★ Born 2 Be Precious - with Chrissy | 25m, 12 | ||||
Flowy, powerful moves on great pockets. Very enjoyable and made me redeem myself after flailing on that middle climb between White Death and this one
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6c | ★★ White Death - with Chrissy | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fingery, balancy warm-up! We spent the first half of the day going from climb to climb going up one, then setting draws on adjacent ones hehe. There is a climb to the right of this, but to the left of Born which is pretty hard and we did it thinking it was White Death, but it is considerably harder.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Upper | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Bibo - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 6 | ||||
Warm-up on this unusual cool corner- but sharp!
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7a+ | ★ So Ill - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
We thought this was a chill 7a only to find a real bouldery, fingery start and sharp continuation. I pumped out at the start by trying to avoid using the left hand mono. Oh well!
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Main | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Free Fall - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 30m, 11 | ||||
Got so high up despite being the last climb of the day! Two clips from onsighting, but when I fell, I had absolutely nothing in the tank to continue and lowered. One day I'll project this
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7b+ | ★★★ Skouliki — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hard AF from the go. Figured out all the moves in my beta burn, but then was powered out by my second shot and cleaned. Super bouldery in all kinds of ways throughout. A very nice challenge, would be nice to come back for it!
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Mon 13th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7a+/b | ★★ Metalizer Ext - with Chrissy | 45m, 26 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Techy first pitch, but with amazing movement if you know how to find it. A few hard reaches and tensiony moves. The extension was awesome! Long moves to good pockets, and the exposure is fantastic. Great day: 7a+/b flash, and 7b/+ send!!
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7b/b+ | ★★★ Buddha's Eyes — 3 attempts - with Chrissy | 55m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Longest single pitch I've ever done cashed at 5.12b/c!! Almost did it in my OS attempt, but clipping the crux draw pumped me out at the very top crux on the gray rock. Came back the next day, blew it down low, and Chrissy was kind enough to let me go again immediately after, and without resting, I got it! 4th day on, too
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7a - b ~7a+ | ★★★ Doxa Ext - with Chrissy | 45m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Flowy and chill. Loved it! Started the day pretty late, but I love Jupiter. Thecrag has this as 7a-b, so I'll go for the middle grade of 7a+.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | ||||||
7b | ★★ Trufa — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent vertical to mildly overhanging technical climbing on smallish slopey tufas. Only just got it on my second try! My hands were opening on the clipping sloper, which later I found that there was a jug to the left... Loved this area. Very cool cave and views. Didn't mind the walk in either.
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7a+ | ★★★ Erase — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The route looked sick after not-quite seeing what Tracey had done on her OS. Got up it, and blew the OS by not getting the first kneebar at the overhang. Got it easily the second go. Highly recommended!!
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7c+ | ★★★ Tampourlo - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 12m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy start to a 3 bolt boulder problem on a 45 degree overhang to medium to small holds. Hard to clip first draw at the overhang. Motivated I managed to pull all the moves! Seems doable, but will likely take several days, which I'm not sure I'll have. Cool to try it anyway!
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Montañejos Climbing Garden | ||||||
6c | ★★ 20 Años de Diferencia Ext - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty cool cross-overy first half. Not sure why they made it so long- second part does not add any quality or grade.
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7b | Parabolt-Man - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 20m, 8 | ||||
Super hard one move wonder for 7b. Didn't manage and had to bail because of rain.
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6b/b+ | ★★ 100 Dias en Leonidio - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sharp, but flowy- not sure what to think of the area. Not a lot of classics, but then I may have been biased by the dreary weather.
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | ||||||
7b | ★★ Savra Ext — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 22m | ||||
Mega bouldery after the pumpy first pitch. You get a good rest right after, but what follows is continuous, fingery, powerful, delicate, and insecure. Worked out the moves on my first go, and thought I had a chance to send on my second try, but ended up slipping after pulling the most difficult set of moves and whipped hard into the rock. Felt it a bit in my ankle and actually hit my elbow really hard and it still hurts! No send today
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6b+ | ★★ Savra - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
As part of my excursion to the extension. Weird pumpy moves on sharp limestone.
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6b | ★★ My Sexual Program - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 20m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warming up! The one and only non-super-sharp climb of the day. Cruisy on good holds.
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7a+/b | ★★★ Io — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yay!! After flailing on this one because I was tired still from the savage 7a, I felt like I needed a win for a wide variety of reasons. Got on it, embraced the searing pain in my skin, and got it. Lightly overhanging on not-as-good-as-they-seem holds and sharp pockets makes for a short but intense climb. I think this may actually be 5.12 number 50 of the year. Came at the right time, and got further rewarded by a dope view of the Aegean.
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7a | ★★ Attero Dominatus - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 10m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yikes. Super sharp, short, and bouldery. My skin hurt and I was still tired from the previous battle. Ended up taking because I made the mistake of going right to rest, but traversing back was a $|-|1+$|-|0\/\/.
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7b ~7b | ★★ 40:1 Ext - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 45m, 25 | ||||
Unbelievable!!! Second 12b flash this year! So thankful to be here in good shape. Pumpy first pitch after which there are mega long, strengthy moves to reachy pockets. Felt so cool!!
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6c+/7a | ★★ Yorgos Bogos - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 39m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great warm-up with long moves to good holds. Thought this was 6b when I went up it, and decided not to stop and rest, and I thought it was a sandbag! It was only later that I learned that it was 6c+/7a. The start of a wonderful, wonderful day.
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7a+ | ★★★ Warum Warum - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 42m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My third 5.12 flash of the day, making this both the day I've sent the most 5.12s ever, and certainly the most 5.12 flashes ever!!! Having climbed 3 40+ meter pitches already, I was tired from the go. To make matters worse, the start is thin and balancy and cruxy. Very sustained climb with long moves to not-necessarily-great holds. Had to scream my way to the top! Lovely evening climb that also I think marks my 50th 5.12 send in 2023. F*(k1|\|g @|\/|@z1ng!!!!!
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7a+ | ★★★ Kalimero | 42m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An absolute classic. Best climb yet in Leonidio! Second 5.12 flash of the day, too! Felt amazing to go from the double gaston to the last victory hold! Slippery and slopey at the bottom, with pumpy long moves to good pockets afterwards. Mega classic 40+ meter pumpfest!!
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Upper | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cornflakes & Tahini - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A dubious choice for warming up, but one that I don't regret! Offwidthy start next to a bit limestone block, followed by steep thuggy moves to sharp holds. Can place a kneebar/kneescum or two. Stoked for a good start of the day!
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Main | ||||||
7c | ★★ Bert - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 20m, 8 | ||||
Toproped this after seeing Igor struggle at different places. Good, sustained climbing that gets acutely harder the closer you get to the anchors! Figured out the moves, but feels far still.
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7a+ | ★★★ Paranihida — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got on it a little tired, but also after seeing bits and pieces of Tracey and Selene's attempts. A lot more straightforward than Kneebaropolous, and overall a better climb for me I messed up a sequence on the OS attempt and skipped. Took it to the house almost immediately afterwards. So I caved to peer pressure to try again and it got done!! Psyched for such a good day!!
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7a+ | ★★ Kneebaropoulos - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hilarious because I messed up all the beginning and was mega pumped since bolt 2. Did not find as many good kneebars as the name of this climb would suggest, but an exquisite journey through folded curtains made of limestone nonetheless. Does not let up! Super dooper happy with the OS!
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos King of Thrones | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Paparazzi Route - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 10 | ||||
Bad choice for a warm up given that you do use your fingers on this one, but happy to be climbing in Leonidio with friends I had not seen in a long time!!! Lots of technical crimpy climbing in and around a sharp arete.
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6b | ★ Mächtig Gewaltig - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 9 | ||||
Final climb of our first day in Leonidio! If you like chimney-ing with your hips with little feet and hands, get on this!
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7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great steep climbing on good holds! Happy with the flash, but mainly being able to climb sort of hard with my left middle finger! Steep tufa climbing with a reachy lockoffy crux 3/4 of the way up ending in some stemmy climbing.
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7b | ★ Song of Ice and Fire — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Hehe I picked the least attractive climb of the day. Riflesque vertical chosssy climbing to a break/ledge followed by steep insecurely bolted boulder problem followed by a Riflesque rooflet which is like bouldering on books. Pumpy afterwards. Set the draws on my first go and had to extend some to make the climb more secure. Second go I messed up a footer at the crux, fell on the last hard move and then one-hanged. May come back to get it!
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Ivi - with Kesh, Asti | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Beautiful sustained climbing to a strenuous crux. Then a bad sit-wrap-around rest, followed by a steep kneebar-assisted jug haul to the anchors Stoked that these first-try 5.12s are becoming a thing!!
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7c | ★★★ Aegialis — 2 attempts - with Kesh, Asti | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
New highpoint, well past half the climb! Linked it in 4 sections, including a super long one to the anchors. So pumped, everywhere, and especially in the calves. Felt like I was gonna puke from the pump!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Palionisos Secret Garden | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Ymer - with Esau | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I set this as a toprope for Esau. Bouldery and short. Took out some rock pieces, so wear a helmet!
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7a | ★★★ Ricounet - with Esau | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Right after setting the 6b+ for Esau, I headed to this one. I had eyed it when I was looking for climbs. Its chimney section looked so cool, so because we still had some time, I got on it. Hardish start, then techy climbing through most of the rest of the climb with stemmming, dropknees, and generally a lot more feet movement than hand movements. The end is pumpy. What a fantastic route!
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7a+ | ★★ Ballos - with Esau | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What. An. Area. This area is pretty darn beautiful from the ride from Masouri, to the approach, to getting there, to the climbs. The sea is right there, blessing with its calming sounds and breezes this beaufully sculpted wavey limestone decorated by tufas, stalactites, and cauliflowers. The movement on this one flows very nicely. For me, the crimpy section in the middle is the crux, which I dispatched diligently. Very, very stoked for this one! The setting was inspiring for sure!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Aphrodite — 2 attempts - with Esau | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
We woke up late and someone was already working on Aegialis, so I decided to get on this instead. Really cool, bouldery sequence on (at this point) slick crimps! I think I've lost some power from all the endurance climbing I've been doing. Enjoyed it a lot!
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
5c | ★★ Au Revoir Là-Haut - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flowy straightforward climbing. I tried the extension which was not the aforementioned. It was sharp, cryptic, insecure, and just not what my body needed at that time, so I did what I don't do very often and bailed on it. Maybe another time
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7a+ | ★★★ Ermis Connecting Us — 2 attempts - with Esau | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty fun climbing on +/- a few degrees off vertical on long moves on pockets. Sequency and crimpy crux, but not too bad, maybe V3ish. Onsight was blown at the crux because of bad headspace and skin hurt. Rehearsed it and got it next go easily. Get on it!
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Aegialis - with Esau | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got on this the day after the Priapos send. Guess I was wrecked! Headspace and skin didn't help either. Bolts felt far away from each other. Skin hurt. I even somehow ended up with my foot full of bird poop. After I got to the chains after basically bolt-by-bolting this thing, I considered cleaning it, because it didn't feel like it could go this trip with the days I have left. I reasoned that I was just feeling bad, and that I should come try more rested and make up my mind then. This is gonna be a mega pumpfest from |-|311!
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lady in Black Ext - with Esau | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice extension to a nice route. A bit sharp.
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7a+ | ★★ Morteau Rico Ext — 2 attempts - with Esau | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flowy first half. Second half is sharp, crimpy, but has its charm. Stoked to get it second go!
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Priapos — 4 attempts - with Esau | 40m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Beautiful climb. Just stunning in every way. The scenery, backdrop, phenomenality of the terran, movement, and more. First started projecting it on my second day in Kalymnos, the 9/9/2023, 2 attempts (onsight attempt almost cleared the hardest section), then 9/10/2023 also saw another attempt. Today, on a windy, perfect weather September day, I focused on breathing above all. After a fine elastic band warrm-up and stretching. Went out of my way to do things properly, as the sheer length of this climb I feel merits any methods that give you the fitness and focus to do all 40 or so meters of overhanging climbing. I made a concentrated effort to keep my breathing under control, and I managed to do it. On the rests, besides continuing my good breathing, I practiced a bit of mindfulness, following the advice from a pretty good article on resting on routes. I allowed myself a lot more easily to be thankful for where I was, and how beautiful and fun it is! I have never done a route quite as beautiful? Maybe only comparable in beauty to Lord of the Thais. Endurance climbing like this is surprisingly (or unsurprisingly hehe) meditative. I timed my rests with Esau. I took sweet and sour gummies to restore my blood sugar. It came down to the wire, too. I tried clipping the chains 3 times before I was actually able to clip the hard-to-move wiregates whilst managing 40m of rope drag meandering through a maze of stalactites. I kept breathing all the way through, climbed a bit higher, and sent. It was amazing.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
6b | ★★ Monahiki Elia - with Esau | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful, flowy climb to some sculpted tufas.
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a | ★★ Elefantenhimmel - with Esau | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell clipping the chains! Felt quite a bit harder than DNA!! Hard to clean, too!
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7a | ★★★ DNA - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great way to start this trip and also my 40s. Kneebar bonanza. Unbeatable location and views. Felt like I was floating through it. Great stuff. First day driving a scooter too haha.
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Nuorese | ||||||
Cala Gonone Biddiriscottai First Grotto | ||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★ C'est la vie — 2 attempts - with Isabel | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Pretty sure this is 7b according to Sardinia climbing website. Amazing steep start to kneebar roof and then mantle! Didn't manage to go back to tick this which is a shaaaaame cuz it woulda been #19 of 5.12a and over in 2023, which would have surpassed my PB of 2013. Isa did a great job at patiently belaying me on this!
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5b | ★ Vai Tossina! - with Isabel | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really mellow, nice and techy route! Isa did great on this!!! Definitely great to see her overcome technical parts of this climb
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Sat 20th May 2023 - El Vellón | ||||||
Las Placas | ||||||
4 | ★ Diedro patatín patatán - with Isabel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Antfest! Set this up for Isabel since it seemed easier than the 5 way out left, but there was a path of tiny ants that stung and swarmed more painfully than they looked. Easy but hard to focus!
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Sat 20th May 2023 - El Vellón | ||||||
Monódromo 2 | ||||||
4+ | El humito del porrito - with Isabel | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Techy, footy, and short. Isabel's first outdoor rock climb. Impressive considering the techy character of the route, and the fact that she's only done less than 10 climbs ever, including gym climbs! Great headspace for sure!
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7a+ | ★★ So pedo — 2 attempts - with Isabel | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Number 18. 18 5.12a or higher climbs in 2023. 18 of these done in 3 different countries, 7 different crags, and 33 wonderful companions. This marks the most of that grade range I've done in since 2013, and tied the most I've done in a year, ever, nigh the eve of my 40th birthday. This comes after the most difficult year of my life, in 2022. Once again, climbing has shown me that any challenge can be overcome with perseverance, self-belief, discipline, self-care, self-love, breathing, and decisiveness. Doing this to a beautiful, overhanging, juggy, powerful, short, and fun climb, with the best company I could possibly imagine, is truly a dream come true. Here's to the start of my new life! Number 19, here I go!
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Wed 3rd May 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Ca La Marta | ||||||
6b | ★★ Los trampolines son para el verano - with Ben, Michael | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Chill and cool line with a hard start and techy but cool climbing for the rest of the route. Setting up TR for Ben and Michael
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Sector Reggae | ||||||
6a | ★★ Una De Dedos - with Ben, Isabel | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead this to set up TR for Ben after he took a fall close to the ground that we managed to take well. He was still shaken by the flip-around fall he took on Ca La Marta the day before. He TR'd it clean after!
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Culample4 | ||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Mas Vale Ser Freky Que Maricon De Playa — 2 attempts - with Ben, Isabel | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried this to set up TR for Ben right after an attempt at Fanatic, so I couldn't quite get the first bouldery pockety fingery part. After the 3rd bolt, the character of the route changes into a slightly overhanging, technical stem. Classic! I think the 2022 guidebook calls it 6c+, and I would agree.
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7a+ | ★★★ Fanatic — 3 attempts - with Ben, Isabel | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic! Very sustained, long route. Both technical and fingery at times. Felt much harder than 7a+! Got it on my 3rd go. Has one sort-of rest section with medium feet around the middle. It's all about keeping the concentration! Thanks to Ben and Isabel for the great vibes!
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Ca La Marta | ||||||
7b | ★★ Instint Animal — 4 attempts - with Ben, Isabel, Michael | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First 7b in Margalef! Tried it first on 4/29/23 with a beta burn with Ben and Isabel. Very cool start with a bouldery pockety left throw by the second bolt. Then power through the pockets to a throw to the horizontal break. On the send, just about managed to do this without peeling! 9 PM ascent, last climb of the trip with Ben!! Very pumpy, sustained second half. Cut up my ring finger pretty good on my second try of 5/3/23. VERY psyched!!
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7a | ★★★ La manolica - with Ben, Isabel | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fist 7a onsight in Margalef!! Flows soo well. The kind of climb that moves your body for you. Excellent feeling on the route, and very satisfying to get the OS!!
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6c | ★★★ La chupadica - with Ben, Isabel | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ben was having some trouble with this climb. He caught the rope behind his foot and flipped, hitting his hips. Fortunately, he did not injure himself! I got Oscar, another climber, to belay me to collect the gear. Very stemmy and flowy, nice airy climb!
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Thu 27th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Ca La Marta | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Printemps arabe — 2 attempts - with Ben | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty damn hard for the grade, but beautiful nontheless! 7b+ in the guidebook, and already hard at that grade. 2 burns this session. One powerful boulder problem, followed by a poor rest, followed by an even harder Boulder problem after the break. Thinking of skipping a bolt on the send.
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6b+ | ★★ Hornimans - with Ben | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Similar to the next door neighbor, super hard for the grade. Weight-bearing monos and other harder-than-6b+ moves are the order of the day. Very satisfying to get, and definitely much higher quality than the next door neighbor!!
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6b | ★★ Ballarin - with Ben | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Very cryptic, polished, and hard for the grade. Satisfying to get, but not a huge fan otherwise.
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Wed 26th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de Sant Salvador Raco De La Finestra | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Magrana - with Ben | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very enjoyable off-character climb. Many small tufa-like features on stemmy, balancy, and pumpy terrain. Not the greatest warm up, but it was fun and I'll take it!
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7a+ | ★★ La estampa — 3 attempts - with Ben | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bouldery start on crimps and pockets. After this, the climb is divided by a series of very pumpy sequences on fingery holds followed by not-really-rests. The hardest crux comes over halfway, where it finishes on a good flat hold. I was soooooo gassed when I got here (because I fell on my second attempt and wanted to try from the ground straight away), threw with my left hand, my right came off, but still unbelievably stuck it! A very exciting feeling that made this climb improbable, and that's what we live for, folks. First 7a+ in Europe!
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6b+ | ★★ Lo Diedre Del Guill - with Ben | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty awesome overhanging dihedral! Starts with a couple of powerful moves off the deck, followed by physical offwidth-feeling stemming with your entire back, followed by technical stemming. Quite varied and enjoyable!
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Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Les Espadelles Racó de les Espadelles | ||||||
6b | ★ Perepunyetes - with Ben | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery start (more than 6b for sure) leads to pumpy, continuous climbing in a beautiful pocketed face. Ben spent a while here, as did he on the 6a all the way to the left the day before!
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6c+ | ★★ Kagaito Sakapoko — 2 attempts - with Ben | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route with polished holds that needs better bolting. I took on the first attempt because the distance from the 2nd to 3rd bolt was significant and not worth the fall. I extended the draws and went 2nd go in a straightforward fashion.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Les Espadelles Racó de les Espadelles | ||||||
7a | ★★ Reventuning — 2 attempts - with Ben | 19m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I remain without a 7a onsight in Europe! Fell deadpointing to a good pocket. Got it second go without that many issues- perhaps just a loud grunt or two. Cool climbing on good overhanging pockets through an arete, followed by another overhanging section with precise throws and even a kneescum. Stoked for the first 7a of the trip!
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6c+ | ★★ In Extremis — 3 attempts - with Ben | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
Dafuq. This is a total sandbag! Definitely qualifies for 7a, maybe even low end 7a+ IMO. Bottom boulder is quite physical, followed by pumpy, insecure climbing. There's also large chunks of rock that are dangerously loose to boot. If it were appropriately graded and cleaned, would be a great climb!
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6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi - with Ben | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The confirmation that what they say about Margalef and pockets is no fake news. Stiff for 6b+, but also very nice, continuous movement.
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6a | ★ Per Molts Anys - with Ben | 15m | ★ Good | |||
First climb in Spain ever! Happy to be in Margalef in good company and mindset. As advertised, lots of pockets! Balancy and technical- quite a bit for only 6a. What a beautiful place
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Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Flaggermusmannen | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Kakestykket - with Maria | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Took me two whole days to get this absolutely classic line! The cold was killing sensation in my hands again. About 35m long, a pumpy steep traverse on great holds that leads into a V3ish compression boulder problem that makes you feel "out there". This is the route that made me feel the beauty of the place, the silence and concentration only being interrupted when you look behind you to find the Arctic Ocean creeping inside the fjords, without a doubt one of the standout lines of our trip!!
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Sun 12th Oct 2014 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Flaggermusmannen | ||||||
6c | ★★ Hovdegjengen (Hovdejengen) - with Maria | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It took a shamefully large number of attempts to get this one... hands kept freezing! Amazing steepish climbing on good holds with a fair bit of body tension that eases after the first boulder problem at the start. Stout 6c. The weather was cold and humid, it being October, and all of the trees already in full fall! Needed the hand warmer inside m'chalk bag!
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Sat 11th Oct 2014 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Hans | ||||||
6b | ★★ Trykkokeren - with Maria | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After getting not-on-the-6a we then were sure this was it. Maria got on it, barely managing the OS. I then got on it thinking it was a stout 6a. Turns out it was a typo in the online guide- 6b. Balancy and out there, to the left of the amazing Hanshalleren, overcast, yet because the sun was in the horizon it was sunny- amazing setting!
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6c+ 6a+ | ★ Lykkelige sønner (Bolted in 2014 (unknown name)) - with Maria | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very first climb in Europe! As with all things European as far as I go, we got to a shaky start. Thinking that this was a 6a, Maria got on this for a warm-up. The start challenged her, so she decided to let me go first. A lot harder than it looked! The seemingly solid Norse granite broke on me in a way it seemed as if I was commiting ritual suicide- stabbed myself in the gut! Got on again and bouldered it out, later finding that this was another new line. I think it should be around 6c+.
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Showing all 91 ascents.