Ascents in Europe by Danja Mewes

First hang dog of part of an 8a (is that grade on 27 crags). Only got half way but actually was fun in the start. Not quite sure about how to clip bolt 5. Wish I'd had more time (but we were camping and I had terrible cramps in the morning, late start). Beta video shows clipping from this crimp but in this hot weather I can't imagine that working. Need to go back. Actually fun route that is not slabby

Stick clipped to almost last bolt. Moves are reachy. Route is morpho. Conditions were bad even in the shade. Too hot. Got more fun and doable from right before bolt 4 to 5, could've led that. But the reachy stuff in the start is a height and flexibility limit for me. Feet slipping a lot

I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it. At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.

Two tries, trying to get back to old high point. Things felt good, but high point didn't come with the injury. Crux starting to feel doable again, but rusty on the section right after it

Surprisingly I actually had to fight. Took me a bit to find feet to start with. Ending also was surprisingly pumpy for the grade and I totally missed the easier way to grip the holds there. Haha, or it was 4h of sleep. But generally 6as here have been hard for me mentally and I've backed off with a lot of injuries so I feel like I got past that now. Or this route just had better bolting and better condition bolts.

Good bolting and interesting features for a 5. Not everything is positive, some slopers. Sidepulls. Fair grade maybe, probably would have the same grade in Sweden. Someone starting out would struggle

Very nice route. Good bolting. Feels like granite. Actual jugs where you need them, interesting but difficult crimpy crux. Heartbreaker sloper at the very top... A bit sandy in places. One of the best routes I've tried here

more of a boulder... but fun anyhow with actually something for feet that isn't glass unlike a lot of stuff on Tenerife. My skin was bad the other day, today it took a couple of goes (I was really out of it, almost had it first go of the session but energy was low). This is MUCH harder if you're shorter, a morpho problem where height really helps out, otherwise there are multiple deadpoints... easier if you're taller, then just one easier deadpoint so I can see why tall people downgrade it. If you're average human height of 170ish like me it's going to feel like 6c. The whole problem is ike a condensed 6c crux, but maybe a condensed 7a crux for the short.

Putting the hand UNDER the second QD to reach this one hold like a gaston at a good angle really helped being able to launch the left hand up (an injury on my left middle PIP joint means I don't like to lock off on it), this beta worked for my partner also

Tried it 4 years ago and 7 years ago. Put in QDs except anchor, arm/hand were bothering me, so repeated it after I found better positions to not jar the injury

Easily 6c. Middle pocket hold is very very polished, Poema roca vibe. Frustrating because this route looks so tempting from the ground, but it doesn't climb like it reads at all, balance middle weirdness, doesn't climb like an overhang. It looks great and tempting but it is a let down. Others in group agreed. Clipping a QD into bolt 3 is quite awkward at least for my height and hard to do as an onsight unless you're tall or QDs are in or maybe you know your belayer and feel great and not worried. Easier if that QD is in, can clip from better hold. Route is hard to read above that and has slippery holds where there should be jugs. Feels run out and exposed to the next bolt and anchor. I've definitely been on soft 6cs (that people downgrade to 6b+) that feel the same or easier than this. Maybe was 6b when it wasn't polished or when it's a bit colder and the grip is nice, rather than mid-March. Don't recommend this route.

I normally project 7s and found this route ridiculous. Bolts are airy for the grade. Holds at bolt 3 (4 if you're skipping the lowest one) didn't feel great, then when you get over the bulge there's a missing bolt and a run out on sharp holds. Sharp is fine but, my feet had slipped several times and the last thing you want on sensitive skin is to slip and fall holding onto sharp holds in a run-out. Thought I could always get 6a-6b but this day and crag are proving otherwise. Maybe a bad head day, maybe the conditions in mid-March sun, maybe a belayer I hadn't met before but - still, this grade is not my limit and it messed with my head. Don't recommend.

5c in Rockfax guidebook. Probably fair for it, I suspect people climbing these grades close to their limit would find it hard. Difficult for me to judge. But holds were where they needed to be and despite being my anti-style, it went just fine. Was a bad head day and nothing else went. Others in group had gone first so I had beta, thus only flashed.

worth a climb if you're in the area, soon to be a classic, a bit loose (little rocks and some things) but not polished, nice tufa and good holds.

either a hard 6c+ or soft 7a but, it was a fight for me on the send go today (crux feels more like it's in the middle than the top honestly, unless you're tall). Swedes: compare it to a shade harder version of Ursprunget, pumpier, but barely harder than Hugo, barely (so closer to 6c+). yesterday I put QDs in and had a send go with a new belayer I didn't trust, then it rained. so I came back today with yet another new belayer, warmed up on it with cold fingers, then sent it next go as rain was coming down.

tried to walk the road, encountered 2 big mean dogs, took a long scramble goat path up to the ridge next to Encantadas, went over that, scared off a group of wild boars, ended up on a super muddy bike/walking path... definitely go the normal way past Frontales in the woods if you're walking! better with car... but the epic journey to send such a short route will not be forgotten

Put QDs in, had to extend 2, set up a top rope for others in the group. Rain was coming. My belayer was new to me and I felt weird trying to commit to this move, so when I tried on lead again I backed down from the middle out of fear and took. Then it rained hard so no final go, but I felt like I would send it the next try!

Is right between 6c+ and 7a to me. I think a taller person might find it easier in the middle and not feel that way. I cut my feet there and make a near deadpoint move.

Finally! This route has been my literal achilles heel after the heel hook. I had the crux so smooth but kept messing one little thing up always on the lock off and bump moves... Finally cruised through. 6c+ in book and on most sites. Does not fit 6c

I am embarrassed as all hell that I still cant get this. I am so frustrated. I need THREE goes in a session, I never get three. I always have to get the dyno (IT IS ONE & IT IS NOT 6c) working again on the warm-up. This time I did it PERFECTLY second go. PERFECTLY. Cut my feet, re-established, clipped the next, got my heel hook... but I forgot to swap my hands so that the RIGHT ONE is under the QD that pinches your hand and you can use the left gaston with the left hand to bump to the good hold above. And it was DARK. I could NOT SEE MY FEET below the overhang to even have a chance to catch just the right little thing in the crack with my left foot. Fail. I don't understand why I just never get this. I am so much stronger than this. I am so extremely disappointed. A lot of people tell me to stop projecting 7c, but honestly, the moves on my projects go with more certainty??? And I like that more??? At least I found the send motivation again, but I went home crying

rock felt shitty today

Put in the QDs first go. Second go I had to grab pretty much all of them Not like Sunday. But they need to be extended even more, and I need to make sure to tell belayers to give slack fast. I found new beta in the crux, to grab the pinch with the left hand to establish body higher up before going left. Felt good. It isn't clear what to do starting the part right before the crux, when you work up to the shouldery move. Still nervous about clipping bolt 2, and the one right before the slab section - what to grab with left hand?

Hang dogged the whole route WITHOUT a panic draw!!! First time!!! Had first 2 pre-clipped, grabbed draw 8 and pulled on it, but no others. Fingers were raw... Remember to clip the 5th from the left hand. Use the low gaston with right hand. match in crack to shake out. Use the sloper for balance before going for the 2 finger undercling. After the jug of the crux, right foot on tick, left foot on slopey spot above and right of QD. Then bring right foot to tiny hold after you establish on upper gaston. Check on left side because as you reach up there are possible intermediates before the crimp jug. This next tiny bit is unclear before you get to a bit better feet and holds. Extend draws by one LONGGGG link: 4, 5, maybe 6 (or short link), 8 (definitely). Did not do all moves on this attempt, pulled through bits of them a little to focus on clipping (e.g. crux and 8th draw especially). Climbing partner said I am ready to actually lead it!!!

Went up on the LOOSE end of the rope on top rope. Really tried to understand where to clip the 2nd draw from and the moves before and after the crux. The crux was NOT going as well (well no possibility of rope tension) and took a LOT of tries to get the way I had other days. The moves right after the crux did not feel as solid, either. just harder to launch for the gaston.

On the LOOSE end of the rope again I top roped this as a warm-up. ALL the moves went better, fell a lot less/went in direct a lot less/less of a fight, the top section makes sense, the middle makes more sense. I sort of have some ideas for after the crux. Kelly said at the top undercling to grab the shitty sloper crimp below the QD to get the left foot high so you can use the undercling and go left to a better crimp. Also, on the section before the pitons, there are hidden slot holds on the right side. Find them! Definitely can lead this again soon, but would need one more top rope go of the whole thing.

Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...

Been 2 years since I was on it. Was damp. Went on 3rd go today, felt good despite the difficulty of the damp rock. Was raining

First 7c hang dog of a whole route! Used my panic draw to accomplish this though so not entirely... But no clip stick! First 2 pre-clipped. Struggled a lot clipping while doing moves from 3 to 4, and the moves on the crimps from 4 to 5 we're not going well. Need better feet. Feel like my right hand top finger joints invert on the sidepull crimp. Other beta would be better. Should maybe extend clip 5 even more. Crux move went in segments but not perfectly. Harder to clip 6 & 7 then I thought it would be, esp 7, the jugs felt bad - my skin already worn through?? Had to use panic draw again on 8 but landed the move using the 2 finger crimp on left and a sorta left heel to get the right sidepull. Tried that Monday and it didn't go... Feels reachy still and clip position as well as feet aren't clear. Then led the next runout slab but to the last bolt for the first time without a clip stick. Grabbed the draw in the end. Not sure the crystally pinch I'm trying to clip from is ideal. But I made it to the anchors

Stick clipped up to place draws. Managed to put QDs in 3&4 just like Monday. But the moves were harder before the crux. Managed crux move 5,th go but not linked to the part before it

Stick clipped up. Crux didn't go. Managed to put QD in on 3rd and 4th bolts both this time (without stick clip)

No way it's 6a. Anyways I was exhausted and could barely stand without falling asleep. Only thing I could manage. Whole thing is jugs. Skipped a bolt. Basically fell asleep climbing and suddenly was at the anchor. Not ideal but the route is probably a 5

Got on this at the end. I have to remember the left crimp pinch to get up to the clip before the crux starts... Also that the first "serious" clip after the Orup start is clipped best from the biggest hold below, rather than continuing to bump the hand up

Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S

Made a pathetic warm-up attempt using this route today but it didn't feel good at all compared to the other time I tried it. Felt so insecure with the clips for some reason. Holds were a bit damp still from rain yesterday

Got it! Didn't really top out though. Clipped and stood there with feet below anchor using left side pull... Then tried to top out after to the right to really stand on the ledge and be more above the bolts ... Failed then. But managed my pump well and finally could get into the send mentality again which I'm happy about. Hadn't tried it since last Summer like in June or so

First try in a year. Start was difficult. But top didn't feel as scary as last year

Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet

Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive

Stick clipped all but 3 draws of the first 8. Feels slightly easier than Siddharta but still have many questions

really pulled to the crux as I was quite sore by this point, tried quite hard to get there, and it was getting dark. Stick clipped the remaining 2 draws and anchor in the dark. The part right after the crux is very unclear. Next time I need to work on where to clip from and really figure out feet and hands for after the crux.

Plan was to go bolt to bolt. The first section felt great, then got to the portion where I would go up the crack to clip the second - and that made no sense how to clip. Managed to clip the 3rd. Then felt unbalanced in the move above the 3rd to think about how to clip bolt 4... So I used the panic draw on this and the next 3 bolts through the crux. Friction for feet felt slippery and bad, making the crux too tricky for me today. Then was stuck above the crux where the crimps start and could not use the panic draw to go bolt to bolt, and retreated

I think I understand a little bit more of it. Especially the first 2 bolts and the part before the crux. But the crux didn't feel as good as this weekend. The top was ok. Last bolt to anchor is wonderful. Crimps immediately after crux are hard to read

Second time trying it, but didn't top rope above the crux. The start I am doing very inefficiently and making harder than it needs to be. the crux goes with the little 2 finger crimp and a dynamic move, but not the part before it which feels like the crimps above the hard part of Tabu. Someday soon will do the part above the crux

Finally top roped the whole thing. Not through the draws, loose rope, so took falls whenever I didn't make a move. Things that went better: Right after crux. Go far right temporarily to jugs. crimp section, can twist through to get the bad hold at the bolt. Use a tiny intermediate crimp to get next hold. Section I never lead before piton: feet still not clear. Maybe need to go left? Deadpoint to the bolt jug worked better but have to commit.

New questions: Not clear how to rest at piton. The next moves at the next bolt are not solid. What am I supposed to grab? Do I use the slopey undercling?

On last 2 bolts, the jug at the first one is clear, but going to the anchors, there are some sketchy weird moves with unclear feet. What should I use?

warmed up on first few bolts. Start felt much better. Put 3rd QD in dynamically. moves right before crux went, crux went first go. Went well

I tried this twice today. It feels much harder than vinna eller försvinna or bad boys, the first 7 bolts only have like 2 possible clips... After bolt 8 it feels much easier and fun, although I couldn't go to the top, spinning bolt. Not sure I want to project this. It seems almost impossible. Maybe it's just the heat?

Definitely 7b, 7b elsewhere. Comparable to Nattsudd at Skevik. Bouldery. Difficult with immediate body-tension moves and big reaches on a traverse line. Not the safest falls. Like a max kilter board problem. Crux in the start. Harder if you are not taller than my 170cm, as you have to keep tension between a not so positive undercling and a hold far above. My left shoulder still hurts the next day from this and trying to swing back onto it. Only tried first bit

already was not feeling great. Just my head was in the wrong place and the reachy holds did not feel great in the heat. Did not like the route so much. Ursprunget is better. Even Armani is better...

6c+ in guidebooks and online. If you do the cut-loose move in the crux this is not a 6c. Not my first time trying it. Warmed up and put the QDs in on it. Crux felt ok, knee felt ok in it, found a way to stabilize my body with a far left hand to compliment the side-pull once knee is placed. this meant less knee pain. But then I got weirded out in the slab corner near the top. Don't normally, it is easy. Decided my head was not in it today and didn't try more, head needs to be in it on the warm-up the day I give this the 2-3 goes to send.

This took me many many sessions to piece together because of my meniscus tear and not being able to rest with my beta (everyone else has a high knee rest if they want to). When it finally went, it was cooler weather. On the second go I had a new high point, and everything just went well for the 3rd go when I finally stopped stressing

Each of my other 2 sessions I only gave it 2 goes. Messed up twice this session and then dry-fired off a crimp. Finally 3rd go this session was the charm. If you are shorter the 3rd bolt is dynamic. Used right side beta and a hidden knee bar to more solidly get to the crux (which wasn't a crux for me, the lower part I couldn't reach was)

This has quite long and committing moves. Not a 6b+. I did not manage it. Thought I could flash, only gave it a flash go. Warmed up on it on Monday, used stick clip. Only really led the last bit to the anchor, the easiest. The start holds did not feel as juggy as they looked, maybe the heat. The middle bit was just quite reachy.

7b in the guidebook and on other sites. Looks easy online, but very mental on the arete with committing heel hooks. Only tried a few clips before my nerves got me. Thought I liked overhangs. I was very disappointed. Maybe if I come back at a less crowded time with less rushed people