Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 12th May 2024 - Sokoliki | ||||||
Ptak | ||||||
VI.1+ Hard | ★★ Kurtykówka - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat hard to decipher past 4th bolt.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Sokoliki | ||||||
Turnia Panfila | ||||||
VI.2 | Prawa ręka Prezesa - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Reachy
|
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Dornbusch-Gruppe Nymphenwand | ||||||
8- | Ecopoint ★ Immer an der Wand lang - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
consistent small moves, not obvious
|
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Holzbachtal | ||||||
Kuhstall | ||||||
7 | Ecopoint ★ Schwedenfeuer - with Danilo Hondo | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
hard not to use dihedral
|
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Holzener Klippen Rotesteineck | ||||||
7- Hard | ★★ Original - with Lina | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Balancy moves around the corner, reachy towards the ledge. Bring a piece of webbing to use a thread to protect the final bulge.
|
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kinaststein | ||||||
6+ ~7- | ★ Liebhaber-Riss | ★ Good | ||||
I used the bolts of the adjacent route left. Surprisingly hard-to-reach jam.
|
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7 | ★★ NN 3 | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Amazing high foothook.
|
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Haderturm | ||||||
7 Hard | Fred vom Jupiter - with Lina | 2 | ★ Good | |||
reachy start with poor footholds
|
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Schinkenspicker | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
reachy, somewhat disappointing finish
|
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Dürrebielegrund Dürrebielenadel | ||||||
VIIIb Hard | ★★★ Lebensuhr - with Danilo Hondo | 35m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Město Pidimužík | ||||||
VIIIb | Dědek Prašivej - with Andreas | 10m, 1 | Average | |||
The starting crack is harder than it looks, as it narrows and steepens considerably. I did not see any possibility to climb the blank section past the bolt without using the crack to the left. Should that be boosted?
|
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Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Sokoliki | ||||||
Stodoła | ||||||
7+ VI.1 | ★★ Ścianka Małolata | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
bouldery start, then easier
|
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Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Anduins | ||||||
Tranquillità | ||||||
6a 5c | Spiegeleier - with Andreas | 20m | Average | |||
Broke a hold at the start. Steep and harder in the last quarter. Somewhat crusty there.
|
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6b+ 6b | ★★ The voice - with Andreas | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gymnastic moves on good holds.
|
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Mon 18th Oct 2021 - Planecis | ||||||
Settore 2 | ||||||
6b | ★ Coniglite (Left) | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good and sharp holds and cool hook move
|
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Thu 2nd Sep 2021 - Unterharz | ||||||
Steinbachtal Der Zweite | ||||||
8- | ★★ Gaußsche Glockenkurve - with Torsten | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
unorthodox moves
|
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Stößenseebrücke | ||||||
7 | ★ Susan Extrem - with Lea | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Rotten bolts, creating a toprope anchor requires extra long slings
|
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Thu 27th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Bunkerspitze | ||||||
8- | ★★ Enteisent | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard final moves, if done without edges.
|
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Sun 23rd May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Westliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Bauchgefühl | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting moves at the start, tricky past the overhang. Still not over when being in the vertical...
|
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
8- | ★ This is the beginning | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Rudawy Janowickie | ||||||
Zamkowy Grzbiet Grupa Skalnych Bram Głaziska Janowickie | ||||||
VI+ | Z mchu i paproci - with Andreas | 18m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Too many lichens, needs cleaning.
|
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Oberried | ||||||
Rosmaries Baby | ||||||
6a 6a+ | Bohrfieber | 8m, 5 | Average | |||
Much harder if you keep right of the arete. I guess the rating applies when you swing arouind the corner for a move midway.
|
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Teufelssteingebiet Teufelsmauer | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Jannik - with Danilo Hondo | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Impressive route. Thank-god leg-jam just below the lid of the roof.
Watch out, the crux handhold (flake after edge of roof) makes unnerving noise - don't rip it off!
|
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Breitenbrunn Magnetenwand | ||||||
7- | Magnet - with Danilo Hondo | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
exit dirty and mossy
|
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Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ||||||
Himmelmühle Himmelmühlenwand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Don't Panic (Don't panik) - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Ruhpolding | ||||||
Plaisirwandl | ||||||
7+ | Weberknecht (Route 16) - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
Bloody hard, no idea how this can be done for 7-
|
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Fri 31st May 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenmühler Nordwand | ||||||
6+ 5+ | ★★ Linke Kaminkante - with Bine | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
curx before the anchors, especially when you stay left of the arete
|
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7- | ★ Zwiebeltreter - with Bine | 18m, 2 | Average | |||
a stopper can be placed below the bulge
|
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Sat 22nd Sep 2018 - Tisá | ||||||
Anglický parčík Travertina | ||||||
VIIc VIIa | ★★ Zahájení hry - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
fine sling offer marginal chicken heads until bolt and after. Committing reachy final move.
|
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Thu 26th Oct 2017 - Randkløve | ||||||
Elses Væg | ||||||
VIIIb 6a+ | ★ Røde Mor - with Lina, Lea, Andreas | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
tricky start with poor and wet landing, first bolt hanger missing. I sneaked up from the left, probably not the most direct line.
|
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Thu 14th Sep 2017 - Unterharz | ||||||
Steinbachtal Hintere Wand | ||||||
VIIIa VIIc | ★★ Überwindung - with Torsten | 15m | ★ Good | |||
very crimpy and some lychens - did I miss the key holds?
|
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Fri 8th Sep 2017 - Katzensteingebiet | ||||||
Katzensteinnadel | ||||||
7+ | ★ Schmusekätzchen - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
damp, dirty and hard. Not wandering off route (edge, dihedral) requires lots of will power.
|
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Sun 27th Aug 2017 - Rochlitzer Berg | ||||||
Seidelbruch Hauptwand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Land des Roten Porphyr - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
quite manufactured and defined
|
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Wed 17th May 2017 - El Molino | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Komando Sagarretas | 12m | Average | |||
screwed up by getting lost at the finish
|
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Wed 19th Apr 2017 - Siurana | ||||||
Can Parasit | ||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Libertarias | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
crux after traversing left from the mini corner: wasted too much power on clipping too early from poor holds.
|
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6c+ 6c | ★★ Ultramemia | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
strange noise from one of the large hole literally threw me off. Should have made a plan while on the ground.
|
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Tue 11th Apr 2017 - Siurana | ||||||
Can Marges De Baix | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Extremoduro | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
just screwed up the final leap
|
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Sat 20th Aug 2016 - Petersberg | ||||||
Großer Steinbruch Große Südwand | ||||||
7 7+ | ★★ Extender - with Heineken | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
easier when bailing out left, otherwise harder than 7
|
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Sun 31st Jul 2016 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Spielberg Hard Rock | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Kapaun - with Heineken | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
powerful moves right from the start
|
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7+ 7 | ★ Schleicherei - with Heineken | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
bailed out to the right after 3rd bolt - too slick for me.
|
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Sun 24th Jul 2016 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Spielberg Hard Rock | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Tres Trigres Tristes | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
reachy move to vertical hold, then crux to ledge; the rest is much easier
|
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Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Le Moulin de Bertrand | ||||||
Moulin | ||||||
6c | ★★ tsimbiliky - with Andreas | 18m | ★ Good | |||
the hidden key hold makes the onsight much harder
|
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Tue 27th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella Far South Torre Isulidda | ||||||
6c | ★★ Toro Rosso | 42m | ★ Good | |||
endurance, found clipping quite strenous
|
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Fri 23rd Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pietraia | ||||||
6c | ★ Surprise | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
bouldery start
|
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Wed 21st Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Cala Mancina Zoo | ||||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Patrik | 16m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Telfs | ||||||
Arzbergklamm Tal ohne Weiher | ||||||
6b | ★ Bohrstaub im Nacken - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | Average | |||
crimpy slab passage halfway up
|
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Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Telfs | ||||||
Arzbergklamm Extreme | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★★ Rissdach - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
athletic balancy moves past roof
|
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Tue 11th Aug 2015 - Reiteralm | ||||||
Alpawand | ||||||
7 7+/8- | ★★★ Best of Genuss - with Danilo Hondo | 480m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unattractive first pitch, then sustained climbing on perfect abrasive holds and liebacks. Hard moves (or A0) on some glued holds in pitch 8, which I couldn't onsight.
|
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
D | ||||||
7 7c+ | ★ Schwächeanfall (Gaudinockerl) - with Danilo Hondo | 9m | Average | |||
Interesting climbing, but somewhat dirty; bolts don't look as new and are farther spaced than on the other routes.
|
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
B | ||||||
7+ 6b+ | No woman no cry - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | Average | |||
Cirqumvented the wet layback.
|
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Sat 18th Jul 2015 - Rothsteiner Felsen | ||||||
8 | Ho-Ho-Weg | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
needs cleaning before ascending.
|
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Mon 25th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Vstupní obvod Dědek | ||||||
VIIc | ★★ Východní spára - with Tilli, Florian, Emilia | 1 | ★ Good | |||
demanding crack climbing right from the start. Sketchy-looking ringbolt. Rappel bolt even worse, consider counter-weight rappel.
|
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Sun 17th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Království Páže | ||||||
VIIIa | ★★★ Konec jedné spáry - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
somewhat uneasy clip of first bolt, then tricky moves past it. Nice threads and easier moves till 3rd bolt. Interesting friction moves to top.
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Drážďanská | ||||||
VIIIa | ★★★ Stará cesta - with Tilli | ★★★ Classic | ||||
strenous moves past overhang, especially if you don't spy the crucial handhold. Reasonable protection, even in the final slab, which goes surprisingly easy
|
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Fri 15th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Vstupní obvod Krakonošovo sedátko | ||||||
VIIc VIIb | ★★★ Tréninková spára - with Danilo Hondo | 45m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sandy flat landing makes for nice start. 10 mm sling may be placed halfway, then progressively harder till bolt. After bolt I found two old slings in the back of the crack, for which I was quite greatful, as I couldn't place anything reasonable anymore and the climbing is harder than it looks. Because of rope drag, belaying off the second bolt make sense. The traverse and chimney went smoothly, but the final friction moves till summit are unprotected, unless you get your second up.
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Wed 29th Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Herbolari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Fisuterapia | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
crux is traversing right to small ledge. then, pure enjoyment.
|
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7a+ 7a | ★★★ Cojón prieto | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
very versatile: edges, flake, bulges and final with some jamming or liebacking, which sent me for deep dipper.
|
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Mon 27th Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
El recingle del Titi | ||||||
6c+ | ★ L'artista Perdut | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky friction moves after second bolt, which had been pulled out.
I traversed from anchors of Piolin to lead adn set up a toprope. The upper two-thirds are much easier.
|
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Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Pared del Chordal Sector Las Placas | ||||||
6c | ★ Merlín | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
athletic start, easier liebacking, enduro finish
|
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Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Agulla de la Craba | ||||||
6b+ 6c+ | (5) - with Erik | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
I found a handhold in the seam below some vegetation - dunno if this was intended by the FAs. Without it, the route would be very hard.
|
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Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Kaitersberg | ||||||
Rauchröhren Crashtest | ||||||
8 8- | ★★ Windhose - with D | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
crimpy crux at end of blank section, but good clipping hold for second-to-last bolt.
|
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Sun 20th Jul 2014 - Labské údolí | ||||||
Pravý břeh Podskalí Hradní věž | ||||||
VIIIb VIIc | ★★ Letní varianta | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
first bolt awkward to clip (marginal pro on ledge). then hard moves to beginning of crack, easier to ledge. From second bolt, easier to traverse left first, then up.
|
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Sun 29th Jun 2014 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Město Cukrovarský komín | ||||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Kampaňová cesta - with Emilia, Tilli, Florian | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just one positive hold, the rest subtle friction moves.
|
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Sun 15th Jun 2014 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Yosemite | ||||||
7- | ★★ Kalte Spalte | 36m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Third bolt is awkward to clip, rather grab ledge to the left first. Upper part with great laybacking, additional #2 friend can be placed.
|
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Sun 15th Jun 2014 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Alpin | ||||||
7 | ★★ Inshallah | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
uncomfortable first clip, then crux move. Rest somewhat easier.
|
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector A | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Unknown 2 | 15m | Average | |||
hard move past bulge on polished holds, rest easy
|
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Tue 22nd Oct 2013 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Alto Valle de Isábena Peña del Serradillo Flaps-Pótamo | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Tartufo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
small pockets, some friction. Seems to merge into Familia feliz at top, circumnavigating the final tricky meters by moving to the right
|
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Fri 28th Jun 2013 - Ellhorn - Fläscherberg | ||||||
Klettergarten Balzers | ||||||
6c | ★ Hundeverbot - with Danilo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
quite polished to first anchors. Then one committing move, the rest are jugs and better than expected.
|
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6b | ★★ Über dem Abgrund - with Danilo | 35m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
quite pumping
|
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6a+ | ★ Rechtshänder - with Danilo | 40m | Average | |||
Loose rock in overhang. Watch the rope drag when climbing in a single pitch.
|
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Wed 26th Jun 2013 - Galerie | ||||||
Wald Waldsektor Weg | ||||||
7a 6c | ★ Ceinture | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Initial sloper and friction foothold is quite polished. Reachy move to flake. From the two jugs look right for sidepull to anchors.
|
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Wed 26th Jun 2013 - Galerie | ||||||
Wald Waldsektor links | ||||||
6b | ★ Via Anja - with Danilo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 25th Jun 2013 - Mescolana | ||||||
Falesia del Biscione | ||||||
6c+ 7a | ★ Penultima Movimento - with Danilo | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
nice starting moves, then moderate to the seam. Crux is getting to the niche in the wall. A good rest there helps to fight the pump in the final overhang.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Terror - with Danilo | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
very versatile climbing, with the crux being the short traverse left through the bulge over the pillar
|
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Mon 24th Jun 2013 - Sasso Bianco | ||||||
Settore Centrale | ||||||
6b | ★★ Alessandro Magno | 30m | ★ Good | |||
demanding friction climbing
|
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6a | ★ Aderonza | 55m | ★ Good | |||
balancey moves in the middle of the first slab
|
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Sat 22nd Jun 2013 - Känzele | ||||||
Traumland | ||||||
6b 7+/8- | ★★ Herr Träumerisch | 30m | ★ Good | |||
somewhat scary first clip, then versatile sustained difficulties
|
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Tue 9th Apr 2013 - Stogaj | ||||||
Pinnacle "Stogaj" | ||||||
5b | ★ Halfmoon | 25m | Average | |||
sketchy bolts; placed two extra knotted slings, couldn't find other placements. Continued "La vida Loca". Rock is acceptable.
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Klanci Zava | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Bine Maja (Biene Maja) | 17m | Average | |||
Rather hard on polished footholds and long reach in final section.
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2013 - Stogaj | ||||||
Pag triangle | ||||||
6b | Beach boys | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
If one could trust these bolts...Bouldery start (crux), reachy move past 2nd bolt, then easy
|
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Sun 16th Sep 2012 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Alpin | ||||||
★ Rakatak | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
powerfull undercling-move after 4rth bolt
|
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Mon 23rd Jul 2012 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Marienwand Vorturm | ||||||
7- | ★★ Westriss | 9m, 1 | ||||
Tue 10th Apr 2012 - Madonna del Monte | ||||||
Block A | ||||||
6b | ★★ Alveare | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
tricky stemming moves in scoop, then jugfest
|
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - Monsummano | ||||||
Cava Rossa | ||||||
6c | Bada Bimba | 15m | ★ Good | |||
sustained lower half
|
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6c+ | ★★ Pesto duro contro il muro | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
moderate till the end of the crack, then either crimpy or reachy
|
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Wed 4th Apr 2012 - Farenzena | ||||||
6b | ★ Provare per Credere | 5 | ★ Good | |||
6b+ | Natrix | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
more like 7a, as some scratching at the base suggests
|
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Tue 3rd Apr 2012 - Mezzocanale | ||||||
Sector A | ||||||
6a+ | W l'erba secca | 15m | Average | |||
6a | Guddu Gunnu | 25m | ||||
pumpy upper third
|
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Tue 3rd Apr 2012 - Palestra del Forte | ||||||
6a+ 6b | Il mattino dei draghi | Average | ||||
reachy dyno
|
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Fri 12th Aug 2011 - Gran Canaria | ||||||
Fataga Caidero | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ La cueva | ★ Good | ||||
knowing the jugs is the key
|
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Tue 22nd Feb 2011 - Gran Canaria | ||||||
Sorrueda Charco | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Tafiaque | Average | ||||
somewhat crispy rock
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Sancho Panza | ★ Good | ||||
exciting all the way
|
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6b | ★★ Pella Pintá (La zanahoria) | ★★ Very Good | ||||
beautiful line
|
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Sat 19th Feb 2011 - Gran Canaria | ||||||
Fataga Caidero | ||||||
6b | ★ Apocalipsis | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 22nd Aug 2010 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Rinnthaler & Wilgartswiesener Gebiet Kuhfels | ||||||
7+ | Wilgartswiesener Weg | 6 | ||||
only first pitch
|
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Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Princesa | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Tierra al reves | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Isla Bonita | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Why! | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 3rd Sep 2009 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Häuptling | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Sechsplosion | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 3rd Sep 2009 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wig und Wam | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Maracuja | 17m, 5 | ★ Good |