Ascents in T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) having Beta

How could I forget to log this one! Absolute cracker, like TCF but not polished. Dogged it with the stick clip first to avoid the decking potential, then extended the 3rd and 4th draws. Fell on a jug after the crux second go, so I got to climb it again!

A bit easier than papa pas for me. Thanks for beta Matt

Felt easier than the slab to get to it, but its more my style. Thanks for the beta Matt!

From about a week ago, logged the wrong climb

Gotta change this ascent as I had the wrong route; turns out the hard, sustained onsight from about a week ago was the 6b, not 6c whoops

Be aware of the bird nesting in the jug to clip the 3rd bolt! (Clip from the sketchy sidepull below)

Amazing moves and pockets the whole way, shame it's the most polished in Buoux

Great route! A good mix of crack and hidden holds in and around the crack. Gotta know how to climb both

Très patinée mais classique!

Départ engagé suivi par une belle traversée sur trou qui finit dans un mur lisse à petites prises. Impossible de trouver la méthode pour passer le crux. Hâte d'y retourner! Dur pour la cote!

A continuous gem on good rock. Thanks Kiki.

Soft for 7a+ but sooo scary!

dans l'ensemble la voie n'est pas très dur sauf le crux qui est un peu morpho et assez dur.

belle voie qui engage un peu. Le crux est bien sympa !

Mega! Thin section, then two reachy moves in between jugs and a lovely 4m runout where you have to mantle from one slab to another. This one and TCF are my two favourite rotes at Buoux!

I suck!

I this one of the est routes here at the buoux

Warm up i though this was pretty good!

First go figuring out which pockets to use. Two reachy moves and a thin top. Mega!!

Such a good route, the best one so far!

Warm up

nails

Smoked on the onsight.

by the skin on my teeth.

Couldn't even touch that crux move. I had to bloody lower off one bolt.

Pockets, small footholds and slabs, my jam!

Awesome!

It felt quite hard, maybe because of my null crack climbing skills!

attention a la cassure si vous retomber juste après

Belle voie échauffement bien parcourue !

Hard crux

Scary bolting

Nice. Good holds

Avec le mono mouillé qui tire bien la poulie

Énervé, j'y vais dedans pour me chauffer et ça passe. Hier ça passait pas. Quantité énorme de patine juste sur le crux

Petit 7a pour les grands

Bien engagé

Sixth shot. So good. So much fun. Sent with a real battle close to dark. Would be hard 24 at home.

Jumping between back-to-back-to-back sinker monos! Psyched at the Onsight! Pockets may not be my forte, but endurance is. Low down committing crux, then keep it together for steep technical pockets at the end.

2nd shot... another "5 bolts in 25m" heart-health check Buoux Route, but stunning technical climbing. Onsighted all except the middle crux, and sent in the rain (for extra terror). The middle crux in particular is intricate and beautiful... one of my favs so far.

Paul yelling beta certainly helped

Great climbing. Have to get beta sorted to do it efficiently.

Fun jambing. Supplemented with a couple of cams after being really intimidated.

So mega! Aside from the 5-bolts in 25m terror, this is an intense sustained number up a beautiful blue streak. 2 laps trying to out it together. Onsight to half-height, and to the top from there with a single rest. Very steep, but the crux has all the hallmarks of a slab... except its overhanging (continous polished, 1/2 pad-monos on dot-feet)... i can just do the crux, but need time and luck to link it. Regardless, its bloody brilliant.

A lot of fun. Would be a 23 at home. Second shot.