Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Dresden | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
How could I forget to log this one! Absolute cracker, like TCF but not polished. Dogged it with the stick clip first to avoid the decking potential, then extended the 3rd and 4th draws. Fell on a jug after the crux second go, so I got to climb it again!
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★ Le Zoo Des Robots - with Matt King, Caitlin Schokker | 20m | |||||
A bit easier than papa pas for me. Thanks for beta Matt
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6c+ | ★★★ Camembert Fergusson - with Matt King, Caitlin Schokker | 15m | |||||
Felt easier than the slab to get to it, but its more my style. Thanks for the beta Matt!
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Venasque | |||||||
Place de l'Ascle | |||||||
6a | ★★ Lasissons les Dire | 29m | |||||
Slopey
More like 28-29m than 35m. Still had 4m of rope left on a 60 |
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6c+ | ★★★ Petite Marie | 36m | |||||
Cool crimp boulder to warm you up before a great juggy overhang
Climbed on a 60m with rope to spare
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7b | ★★★ Misanthropies Therapeutiques — 2 attempts | ||||||
Was slowly scrapping my way through the endless jugs on the onsight when above the last bolt I encountered the final boss, a sloper. I found out after falling off that the sloper was also a jug and I just didn't reach far enough. Second shot equally as pumped but slightly more informed
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Grand Travers Rocher école | |||||||
4c | La Garce | ||||||
Location: 44.16182045686369, 5.02706124620741
Time: 17:23:59
Climb Duration: 00:18:41
Max. Heart Rate: 147BPM
Height: 28,33m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine La queue de la baleine | |||||||
7b | ★★★ 1984 | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool line, but not for injured me today
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Dentelles de Montmirail | |||||||
Chaine du Grand Travers Rocher école | |||||||
4b | ★★ La Petpluoktoncul | 20m | |||||
Location: 44.16194410209506, 5.027068067904402
Time: 18:47:14
Climb Duration: 00:34:43
Max. Heart Rate: 132BPM
Height: 36,57m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Face Ouest | |||||||
7a Hard | ★★★ Le Loir | 30m | |||||
Loved the whole thing, until the part without footers near the top. Felt really beat up after this
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nouveau Far West | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Hop, hop, hop ! | ★★★ Classic | |||||
My kinda climbing! I frothed the whole thing
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7a+ ~7b | ★★★ Cococaline — 2 attempts | 35m | |||||
Was super fun until the two crux sidepulls, which somehow felt wet, and got worse with every attempt. Didn't manage to link the full sequence once
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Basses gorges du Toulourenc | |||||||
Aussiest | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Bonne Pioche | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Way easier than Demi Journee and completely different style - super nice tho
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6c | ★★★ Demi-journee | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Also harder than the 7a... this one is super super super technical, quite airy bolted and demanding. Loved it!
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7a+ | ★★★ Les grandes gueules | ★★★ Classic | |||||
way harder than the 7a next to it. Super nice as well.
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7a | ★★★ Doudou et chouchou | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Spectacular one - super super nice. rather soft
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nouveau Far West | |||||||
6b | ★★ Zone Revitalisation Rurale | ||||||
Cool corner climbing
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Face Ouest | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Voodoo Club | ||||||
Easy jugging up to 2 half pad or smaller monos and smear feet. One of my feet slipped right as I grabbed the next half decent hold, yikes.
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6a+ | ★★ Escale à Buoux | ||||||
Nice easier start followed by some techy smearing and a fully hands free slab section. Great stuff
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Tomahawk | ||||||
First pitch only. Too hot
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Alambic Sortie Sud | 20m | |||||
From about a week ago, logged the wrong climb
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Basses gorges du Toulourenc | |||||||
Bois de Feuillets | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ la marche forcee du pachyderme | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
super homogeneous, completely my style
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★ Papa Pas Pou - with Caitlin Schokker, Matt King | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gotta change this ascent as I had the wrong route; turns out the hard, sustained onsight from about a week ago was the 6b, not 6c whoops
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7a | ★★ Fin De Siècle (Dit Jolinouille) — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Be aware of the bird nesting in the jug to clip the 3rd bolt! (Clip from the sketchy sidepull below)
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
No Man's Land | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Harlem Desir — 3 attempts | ||||||
Gave it 3 attempts in an effort to try something harder; wow it's nails, hardest thing I've ever properly tried. In the end there were too many cruxes for me to commit any more time, but I learnt a lot!
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Turbo Cibi Facho — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing moves and pockets the whole way, shame it's the most polished in Buoux
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La Rose Des Sables — 2 attempts | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good to put this mega classic down after admiring it for a week or so. Cheeky hidden holds around the crux
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Ouest L'idéal chimérique | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Clement comme ill respire | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
steep, pumpy and polished but nice tho
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le nabab | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Le linceul de Penelope | ★★★ Classic | |||||
The pump ruined my OS right before the anchor :-D didnt give it another go.
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Piedra salvaje | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing dihedral loved it!
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ L`Ecornifleur | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm up, not easy for 6a+...
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Courage Fuyons — 2 attempts | 35m | |||||
Super cool route! A few tricks needed to make it go smoothly
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7a | ★★★ La Rose Des Sables | 35m | |||||
One of the better 7as I've done
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7a | ★★ La fievre spiteuse L1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Amazing Boulder on slopers at the very end. Super hard to read - ruined my OS 😅 super super nice
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6c+ | Un p'tit paradis para ti, Antoine | Average | |||||
Not convinced by the rock quality…
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Pirequetoutopuulos | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Reta dur !
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7b | ★★★ Commando fada | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Omg what an endurance beast - so so so cool
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7b | ★★★ The dark side of the mums | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stellar line!!!! Not easy for the grade
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6c+ | ★★★ Carriere en exploitation | 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super super nice
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6b+ | ★★ Le pilier de la rumeur | 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm up
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
6c | Ne m’appelle plus jamais Darvador ! | ||||||
My arms felt pumped for like 3 hours after this. Sounds like my body is asking for a rest
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Pepsicomane | |||||||
6b |
★★★ Pepsicomane
1
6b
2
5c+
3
6a
| ★ Good | |||||
The final pitch was too wandering and compressed with other pitches next door to flow at all
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Les Diamants | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Les Diamants Sont Éternels — 2 attempts | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No quite one of the best 7as in the world, but so worth it. Exposed position, spaced bolts, long, some physical moves and a technical slab crux. Great and intimidating climb
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Excalibur | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Le Vieil Homme est Amer P1
1
7a
| ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Amazing route! Techy crimps on the left of the arete, and buoux pockets on the right, so sustained and technical. So psyched to have onsighted it!!!
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Fakir | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Desespoir — 2 attempts | 30m | |||||
A foothold broke on me on my OS go at the crux! It would have been 50/50 if I sent too, so unfortunate
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud En attendant Mozart | |||||||
7a+ | ★ En attendant Mozart | Average | |||||
One move wonder, actually quite nice line, but it all comes down to one / two moves…
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6c+ | ★★ Jean-Sébastien sur Chiures | ★★ Very Good | |||||
First pitch is super super super technical and harder than the second pitch in my opinion
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pensees afghanes | ||||||
Repeat
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Du rire de baleine aux larmes de crocodile | 15 | |||||
Had done the start but OS the rest
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | |||||||
7b | ★★ Un désir sans détour | ||||||
Warm up dog placing draws for tapelin
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est Le nabab | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Le linceul de Penelope — 3 attempts | ||||||
Fell off above the last bolt on the onsight, and then again on the next shot. Glad I held it together with elbows flaring on the 3rd shot. Turns out when you trash yourself the day before because you weren't planning to climb, you feel trashed when you go climbing
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Excalibur | |||||||
6a+ | Surex | Don't Bother | |||||
Good climbing but on seriously chossy rock, be warned
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
No Man's Land | |||||||
7b | ★★★ No Man's Land | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a cracker! Went down nicely once I had learnt the traverse and rests. 4th gp total, it was surprising how quick the pump build up on the first RP go
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Macadam cowboy P1
1
7a
| 29m | |||||
Hanging draws for Caitlin
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7c | La fuite en avant — 3 attempts | ||||||
Good links today. Feels like a set of 4x4s. One sit on the last go
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7b+ | ★★ Vite fait, bien fait — 2 attempts | ||||||
When I decided to actually crimp the crux hold it felt easy
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Macadam cowboy P1
1
7a
| 29m | |||||
My favourite 7a of face nord
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7b+ | ★★ Vite fait, bien fait — 3 attempts | ||||||
Freakin nails
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ FFMeuh — 3 attempts | 30m | |||||
Thought it would be in the bag after last session, then didn't even make it as far. Will try and come back a bit more fresh if it's not seepy after the rain
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Le Nombril | |||||||
7a+ Hard | ★★★ Courage Fuyons — 4 attempts | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a route! There's a bit of a trend of me coming back to a proj in the afternoon shade, doing really well but then having a slip, and sending it an hour later. 4th gp overall. Was much more technical than I initially expected, as there are limited feet. Once I used a bit less of the crack it went down.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
T.C.F. (Turbo Cibi Facho) | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Le Juif Architecte | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great route! A good mix of crack and hidden holds in and around the crack. Gotta know how to climb both
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Scorpion | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Kamikaze | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb too
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6c | ★★ Des Verts Peperes | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome, awesome climbing, and I climbed it awesomely. I kept waiting for the "heartbreaking reachy move", and then was at the chains!
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6c ~7a | La Fleche | Don't Bother | |||||
We couldn't for the life of us figure out a sequence right at the top. Be warned!
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6a+ | ★★ Carton Jaune | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard getting over the Bulge then delightful. Buoux is amazing!
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ La Montee aux Enfers | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This was a great route! Varied, hard to onsight and with so many bolts, but I was grateful for them!
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - La Combe Obscure | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★ La Martine | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
An der Crux, leider schon etwas poliert. Ging früher besser.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud En attendant Mozart | |||||||
6c | ★★ Des titis et des grisettes | ||||||
Nearly fell off several sections
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7b | Les chevaux du vent — 2 attempts | ||||||
7a+ in the guide, I agree more with this grade. Punchy, long moves on ok holds for a few bolts in a row. Once the climbing starts, it doesn't let up
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud Les coffres en bambou | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sale fee mal brossee — 2 attempts | ||||||
Awesome route. Skipped the last bolt because I was too flamed. Worth it
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Sud La violence éternelle | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ S.O.eScalade | 30m, 18 | |||||
Did this a week ago and logged the wrong route
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Tue 23rd Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Est FFMeuh | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ FFMeuh — 3 attempts | 30m | |||||
Punted off the top. Connies were primo today
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine La queue de la baleine | |||||||
7b+ Hard | ★★ Pavelades - with Philip | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Totally different climbing style and sooo pumpy! The guidebook says it‘s good to train your kneebar-skills — I clearly don‘t have any 😅
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★★★ Pierre indigne - with Philip | 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy start with some good rests in between, slabby finish. No real crux, pure endurance. Loved it!
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7b+ Easy | ★★★ Pierre indigne - with Moxi | 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy first half, then easier
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hold up | 30m, 15 | |||||
Repeat of the first half, onsight of the top half
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Nord | |||||||
7c | La fuite en avant — 2 attempts | ||||||
Very good, quite unrelenting. Could barely clip any of the draws
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Praniania Le maitre du vent | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Princessa — 3 attempts | ||||||
Climbed through the crux only to find some of the headwall moves were also cruxy. Good fight
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Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
La Croisette | |||||||
5b | ★ Surfin' Rock - with Clément BL | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Excellente voie pour pratiquer les manips de GV.
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5b+ ~5b | Végan - with Clément BL | ★ Good | |||||
Voie très courte.
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6a+ | ★★ Prises Electriques | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Superbe
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Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Fantasmagorique — 2 attempts - with Philip | 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My fingers were so cold and numb on my first go today and I fell on the second crux. Took the opportunity to thoroughly check out the upper section from the last bolt to the anchor and found some better holds and better beta a bit more to the right. I really didn‘t want to fall again so close to the top 🙈
It really paid off as my second go was quite smooth and I wasn‘t pumped as much and could use all the small rests I had found ✌🏻
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★★ Hors la loi | ★★★ Classic | |||||
7a in the topo.
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Pepsicomane | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Pepsicomane | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Majeur
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Praniania Le maitre du vent | |||||||
7a | Eagle 0 2 | ||||||
Warm up before Princessa yesterday
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b Easy | ★★★ Le Temple de la Meduse - with Philip | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Really enjoyed this one! Happy that I still had enough juice in the tank at the end of the day ✌🏻
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7c/c+ | ★★ Fi, Flo, Floty - with Philip | ★ Good | |||||
Hmm…didn‘t enjoy this one much. 7a-ish climbing to a two-move crux and then again max 7a to the top. Philip found a better beta than me but I didn‘t feel like trying again.
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Fantasmagorique — 2 attempts - with Philip | 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a bummer, fell 2 meters below the anchor on my second go 🙈 but I was a bit too pumped and the last part to the anchor is not super obvious and the holds not the best. Anyway, I will return 😎
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7c/c+ Hard | ★★ Fi, Flo, Floty - with Moxi | ||||||
Technical and crimpy boulder in the middle
Evtl. nochmal mit mehr Haut |
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Fakir | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cri de Guerre | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stunning route. The traverse on sloppy greassy slopper isn't pleasant when it's warm. Except these 3m of unpleasant climbing, it's a must climb.
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6b | ★★★ Signé Farax | ★★★ Classic | |||||
A hold seems to have broken between the second and third quickdraw. The move is crazy hard, much harder than the grade and the rest of the route. You can skip it by pulling at the second draw. The rest of the route is stunning.
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Salinas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Tataouine | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Cute little route. Brand new, the holds bite.
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Arque pied tendre - with Philip | 40m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I love the occasional jug in between!
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Carriere en exploitation | 17 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c in our guidebook. A little brittle at the start, otherwise - great climbing!
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7b+ | ★★★ Pirequetoutopuulos | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Tufa-action! Getting over the bulge was a little tricky, good thing there was a huge jug right before this section
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7b | ★★★ The dark side of the mums | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice!
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||||||
Al Andalouz | |||||||
7b+ Easy | ★★★ Arque pied tendre - with Moxi | 40m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nearly messed it up two times...
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Buoux | |||||||
Colorado | |||||||
7a ~6c+ | ★★★ A nos trente ans | ★★★ Classic | |||||
6c+ on the topo. For sure easire than 7a.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Rochers du Groseau | |||||||
Papillon | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Salamadre — 2 attempts - with Moxi | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only to the first anchor
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7b | ★★ Chérie Jolie - with Moxi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Painful start then technical. Nice, but not in the sun 🥵
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