Ascents in Provence verte (Var) having Beta

One of the best at the crag!

C'est dur, et j'ai peur. Run out

Beautiful orange rock! Not the hardest one here.

Etwas speckig, anstrengende Piazkletterei und dann ausgesetzte Kante.

Lösung gefunden, für heute zu warm und zu schwer.

A little bit committing, but very nice.

Weirdly bolted and quite hard for the grade.

Im ersten Go noch die falsche Lösung für die Crux (an der vorletzten Exe). Richtig: links im 3 Finger Henkel, rechts auf Schale, dann rechten Fuß ganz hoch aufhocken und Kreuzzug mit rechts in das 2+1 Fingerloch links außen mit Zwischengriff an Leiste. Dann links an Schale direkt daneben und dann Eindrehen zum Verlängern.

Hard at the second bolt with the drilled hold. The rest is to enjoy.

Quergang mit schlechten Tritten schwer. Danach riesen Henkel und Eule verscheucht.

Sehr Pumpig!

Training für die Fränkische! 2 Fingerlöcher vor der Dachkante. Links anklettern, dann rechts rüber, das tiefe 2 Fingerloch rechts nicht übersehen und dann gerade hoch.

Crux war wider Erwarten schon am 3. Haken. Danke Flora für die Exen im oberen Teil 😉.

Dritte und vierte Exe verlängern hilft deutlich beim Clippen. Weiter Zug auf den Wulst und ebenfalls weiter Aufsteher am Untergriff vom 4. Haken.

Sehr schöne henkelige Route

Ersten Teil geflasht, oben ist es deutlich leichter.

Start wie 'Les Frontierres du neant' dann nach rechts queren. Wenn's wieder hoch geht Crux und dann dran bleiben

Etwas speckig, aber sonst schöne Henkeltour.

Not even an idea, clipstick ascent.

Couldn't resist. Perfect pro, 9 or 10 placements, more are possible.

Nice 3D rock structures spiced by a chimney section at the end that requires some ideas what to do. Funny & not a present for thé grade.

Nice, but significantly harder than the given grade.

Very cool, long and varied with an airy crux high up. Feels a bit like Elbe sandstone climbing on bolts. And now: back to camping "en canöe"

Excellent long pitch, quite spaced bolting. Luckily easy enough not to get scared, but hard enough to have to leave confort mode.

The topless season is open committing bolting in the 2nd half.

Hard start, then very enjoyable

Hard to read, hard to climb. Very hard crimping in the middle, maybe there is an easier way? And a funny dead end a bit later...

Cooler Zug in der Queerung unten. Rest spaßige Henkelei.

Pumpy

Speckige Henkelei

Soft

Oben an der Kante bleiben.

Fühlt sich ausgesetzt an.

Just climbed L1 at the end of the day. Nice juggy climb with only one harder move until you get to the "legendary boulder problem". Could climb the problem after a rest by taking the bigger pocket on the left and a undercling for the right hand. Big move to a jug.

Climbed it first go this day with fresh arms (and legs). Still, the moves before the anchor didn´t feel easy. Close call.

Impressive long route. Two or three harder sections. A tricky dihedral, a steeper part that offers not only jugs and a funny exposed traverse. Bring some long draws.

Climbed with one rest in my second go. Just an amazing route. Very athletic after passing the first anchor on good holds which are far apart.

Relatively easy on good pockets apart for one boulder move to the last bolt below the anchor. Didn't onsight the boulder.

Probably took a slightly easier and higher path than the first ascentionist in the first section with fewer holds (easier than 6C). I still got really pumped after the corner where the only good feet in the overhanging face are low down and I tried to put the wet shoes on small and sloping footholds. To be fair, someone else has certainly climbed this traverse before us.

The route is maybe 7a+ (first vertical on smaller holds, then more overhanging on better holds) up to a big hole in the middle where you can put a nice kneebar where even I could release both hands. After the hole, you go slightly to the right, then comes a hard first part: after some good pockets, I crimped a sloping pocket with the right as a gaston, took the pocket left of it as an undercling, bumped the right hand to a sloping intermediate and then far up into a very good pinch. You can clip from there. I could climb up to the height of the next clip after that, however it is placed so far to the left that I just didn't manage to clip a quickdraw into the bolt. Since it was already three meters above the previous bolt and the next bolt is another three meters up, I didn't want to skip it and came back down.