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Ascents in Demi Lune by Martina Demmel

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Showing all 35 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7a+ Les Dessous Chics Sport 25m Very Good
Pretty hard to read section in the middle;)

 
6b+ Chant de cristal Sport 25m Classic
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7a+ Ralez David sonne Sport 40m Mega Classic
Without any chalk! Long journey through perfect shaped sharp rock to the very top of the cliff:)

 
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
8a+ Encore Sport 40m Mega Classic
Like half an hour after onsighting the right one, I managed to the fight to the top of this much pumpier endurance beauty as well:) what a day! Biggest thx to Luisa for the hanging draws and putting on some chalk again after the rain;)

 
8b Radote Joli Pépère (Radote jolie pépère) Sport 40m Mega Classic
Things like this only will happen when you don't expect them at all! Just wanted to boulder up once to warm up for an onsight in the left one but directly found myself clipping the chains of this exposed kingline as well:)) two bouldery sections seperated by a big rest; couldn't see anything while coming around on this edge in the 2nd crux as the sun was still in the wall...

 
6a Un panda sur la banquise Sport 20m Classic
The access to a real dreamline!

 
6a Sea Sex And Sun Sport 20m, 7 Classic
Carte noire wasn't free so I took the right one to get to the upper wall once again;)

 
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7c Carte à gêne Sport 20m Classic
Took me 3 tries to get the first move/jump dealed again even though I've done the left one last summer already... pumpy onsight after the the 3rd bolt;)

 
Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
8c Dures Limites Sport 30m Mega Classic
Magic send with the best supportive crew (thx Malik and Ferdi for the belays);) first real project in Céüse; hardest and most attractive route ever so far! Prime condis let me clipp the chains within 5 tries totally unexpected (2nd session, 3rd day on) never could link many moves before, changed the toehook beta in the first crux and somehow sent it directly after getting through this tension based section the first time... mental fight till the very rather antistyle end!:)

 
Wed 19th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
8a L'ami caouette Sport 25m Mega Classic
#2go The only time, I didn't had a look at the route because it looked too hard for an onsight and I rather just boulder it up once... fell at the 2nd move, came down directly and climb the whole line basically onsight! What a pity but still happy to have made such quick business;)

 
7b+ Jaune Devant Sport 25m Mega Classic
Directly hopped on this one as it was free for the first time during the 2 weeks! Felt quite hard but the rock in the upper part is awesome:)

 
Tue 18th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
6c Bonnye And Clyde Sport 20m Good
Pretty bad for warming as there are just a few bouldery moves from the ground and the rest would be possible without using hands;)

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7b Beauf Story Sport 40m Classic
Pretty exposed for 6c and pumpy on top!

 
7b Beauf Story Sport 40m Mega Classic
Felt easier than the first 6c pitch;) only crimps to the top of the cliff!

 
6a+ Papyrus Sport 25m Very Good
7c Uniqueaumonde.com Sport 40m Mega Classic
Luckily not that polished as thr neighbouring famous classics are but the rock, the line and the rock through this overhanging 40m corner are at least as good as the others are! Biggesg battle for a while now with the pump of my life:)

 
6a Katina Sport 20m, 11 Classic
8a+ Sueurs Froides Sport 28m Mega Classic
Did this just happened!? Half onsight as Malik and Marius just told me a little bit of their crux beta at the campground but in the end, I had to find my own way with a heel hook crossover to a little crimp by skipping the jump:)

 
Fri 14th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
8a+ La Femme Blanche Sport 35m, 11 Mega Classic
#2go Big lockoffs in the middle followed by a surprisingly long and hard final slab! Another classic done and luckily I don't have to wait anymore to start climbing here;)

 
6b+ Harley Davidson Sport 25m
Polished!!!

 
7a+ Melody Nelson Sport 25m, 9 Mega Classic
Such a long interesting slab!

 
Thu 13th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7c Minette A La Plage (Minette à la plage) Sport 35m Mega Classic
Big moves between these slopy rails! First time reaching the top of Céüse by climbing:)

 
8b La Chirurgien Du Crepuscule (Le chirurgien du crépuscule) Sport 35m Mega Classic
5 star route with lots of tricky sections! Stupid beta for the pockety crux by going way too direct, came down and started directly again by sending this 40m gem surprisingly solid:)

 
6c+ El Daü Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
6b Marylou Sport 20m
7a+ Esperanza Sport 25m
Tue 11th Aug 2020 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7c+ La Femme Noire Sport 30m, 11 Mega Classic
#2go Surprised myself by doing the start dynamicly:) endurance section in the middle and a hard redpoint crux slab to the anchor! Classic

 
7a+ Gre blanc Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
Sunny slab:)

 
8a+ Le Poinconneur Des Lilas (Le poinçonneur des lilas) Sport 25m Mega Classic
#2go Promoising onsight go till the middle of the crux already high up, took me a while to find a suitable beta, did a mono handswoap in the good pocket in the end! Could be 8b/+ in Franken... surprisingly quick but far from solid send;)

 
7b+ Changement De Look Sport 25m Classic
Felt super hard especially the 2 crossover moves! Time for a restday:)

 
Thu 29th Aug 2019 - Céüse
Demi Lune
8a Carte Blanche Sport 20m Mega Classic
#2go Two boulders with far moves selected by a good rest; cool pumpyy end;)

 
7a La Javanaise Sport 25m Mega Classic
Awesome tricky slab:)

 
7a+ Angel Dust Sport 25m Mega Classic
7b Vieille Canaille Sport 25m Mega Classic
Wed 28th Aug 2019 - Céüse
Demi Lune
7b Lapinerie Sport 20m Mega Classic
Nice steep classic with polished jugs and a committing jump to the top:)

 

Showing all 35 ascents.

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