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1 5a
2 4c
3 3c
4 3c
5 3c

description

From the hut, walk up N/NE around the base of east face of the Dibona until you reach the foot of the Brèche des Clochetons. Scramble up towards the left on some very easy slabs to find the start of the route at the base of the obvious couloir leading to the Brèche des Clochetons, left of the Clochetons Gunneng.

All pitches are approx. 40m, requiring up to 7 draws.

  1. approx. 40m (5a, crux) Head up the slab slightly towards the left, aiming for a small overhang. Below the overhand, traverse to the left for a few steps. A moderately high rockover move on the left foot gets you just below the first belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

  2. approx. 40m (4c) Head straight up the slab from the first belay until the bolts start veering off to the right. Traverse right as soon as possible using the obvious line until you are almost below the second belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

  3. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

  4. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

  5. approx. 40m (3c) From the 4th belay, head diagonally up to the left, crossing over a couloir coming down from the base of the Clochetons, and continue up and leftward towards the Brèche des Clochetons. The last belay (2 bolts, cordelette) is located on the arète with a comfortable platform on the other side.

Route history

1998First ascent: Gaétan Junique & Pascal Junique

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 44.96372, 6.24304

Grade citation

5a, 4c, 3c, 3c, 3c Assigned grade

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 1 ratings.

Difficulty - 5a

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5a

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 1

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Yann, Martine & J. J. Rolland

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9782958158408

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Durance Valley around the towns of Briancon, Ailefroide, La Vallouise, L'Argentiere-la-bessee and Guillestre, covering everything from single pitch sport routes to long classic alpine ascents up to 600m long.

Author(s): JM Cambon

Date: 2022

547 alpine multi-pitches in the massif Écrins Est, Briançonnais and Cerces -the area is breathtaking and offers quite a bit of climbing adventure

Author(s): B. Ribeyre

Date: 2022

Im Kletterhührer werden ca. 230 Sportkletterwege, 12 große alpine Routen sowie 2 Drytooling Sektoren beschrieben. Die Gebiete liegen in grandioser alpiner Landschaft unweit des Dorfes La Grave la Meije, eingebettet von hohen Gipfeln der französischen Westalpen.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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