Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Le Brevent Col du Brévent | |||||
5a | ★★ La somone
| 200m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★★ Crakoukass
Well bolted pitches up 3 Gneiss gendarmes finishing towards the top of the Col du Brévent ridgeline. P1 - 5c. Face and crack climbing lead to a good ledge. P2 - 5a. Follow the bolts to the next ledge. P3 - 5a. Fun pitch ending in some great stemming between two gendarmes. Long slings handy. 10m rap to the start of the next pitch. P4 - 5a. Climb the crack. A short traverse left then back right leads to the start of P6. P5 - There are 2 options, trend left 5c or climb the steep face at 6b (crux) P6 - Short traverse followed by 20m abseil. Walk up approximately 100m to the right gendarme (a round red marker highlights the start of the pitch 7) P7- 5b. Straight forward face climbing. P8- 5a. Long slings handy to reduce rope drag. From the top, it's a 2nd class scramble down to the left gendarme. P9 - 5b. Walk off the backside. FA: Meot/Manrad/Balmat 2000 | 250m, 9 | |||
6a | Catyoucha man
| 200m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Bodinosaure
FA: Yves Ancrenaz, Manu Méot & Kim Bodin, 2009 | 220m, 7 | |||
4c | Mic est Maousse
| 200m, 7 | |||
5c+ | ★ Spitomaniak
1
5b
2
5b
3
5b
4
5a
5
5c+
6
5a
7
3b
8
4a
9
3
10
5b
11
3b
| 280m, 11 | |||
Le Brevent | |||||
6c | ★★★ Poème à Lou
1
6a
2
6a+
3
6b
4
6c
5
5c
| 250m, 5 | |||
6c | ★★★ New Piola Route
1
6a
2
5c
3
6b+
4
6c
5
6b
6
6b
7
5c
| 230m, 7 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ La Fin de Babylone
1
6a+
2
6b
3
6b+
4
6c+
5
6b
6
6c
7
6b
8
6a
Alpine sport route in unbelievable location and aspect. Incredible climbing! Steep, athletic and demanding with substantial run outs on most pitches. Rock is solid. Not suitable in high winds as exposed. Can be done on a 70m but better with twin ropes if you have to eject. Exposed! Finishes below the Gondola. Don't miss the last cable car down... 3 hour walk out! FA: Muriel & Michael Piola / Benoit Robert, 2007 | 220m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Premier de Corvée
1
7a
2
6c+
3
6c
4
6c
| ||||
6b | ★★★ Ex-Libris
1
6b
2
2
3
6a+
4
6b
5
6a+
6
6a
7
5c
| 200m, 7 | |||
7b+ | Ou ca m'ammène la benne
1
7a+
2
7b+
3
7b+
| ||||
6b | ★★★ Retour à la Bretagne
1
6a
2
6a+
3
5b
4
6b
Set: T. Renault, 2018 | 4 | |||
6a | ★★★ Voie Frison-Roche
1
6a
45m
2
5b
35m
3
5c
30m
4
6a
40m
5
2
20m
6
5c
30m
| 200m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ La Piste Oubliée
1
6a+
50m
2
5c+
35m
3
6a
25m
4
6b
30m
5
6a
30m
Set: Thierry Renault, Jonathan Charlet & Christophe Blaszczyk, 2014 | 170m, 5 | |||
6c | À fleur de roche
1
6b
50m
2
6b
35m
3
6c
25m
4
6b+
30m
5
6b+
30m
| 170m, 5 | |||
5c | ★ Rêve de cornichon
| ||||
4a | TMB
| ||||
7a | Défense d'user
| ||||
6b+ | Un porc, ex porc
| ||||
5c | Touche pas à mon spot
| ||||
6a+ | ★★ C'est après ...
| ||||
6c | Attention à la marche
| ||||
6b | Tiroir-caisse
| ||||
6a+ | ?
| ||||
6a+ | Pilier de gauche
| ||||
6b | Pilier de droite
| ||||
6c | La Dalle
| ||||
6b | ★★★ Les sorcières de Salem
| ||||
6a+ | ★★ La belle et la benne
| ||||
6a | Poil dans la main
| ||||
6a | Tombé du ciel
| ||||
6b | A bout de souffle
| ||||
5a | Les ailes du désir
| ||||
4c | Demi Lune
| ||||
5a | ★★★ Sérieux s'abstenir
| ||||
5c | Enfant de lune
| ||||
6b | Lolita nie en bloc
| ||||
5c | L'homme est rare
| ||||
6a | ★ Rappelle moi ton nom
| ||||
6a+ | Viol sans visibilité
| ||||
6c | Salutation au soleil
| ||||
6c | Le grand pont
| ||||
6b | ★★★ T'as pas tout lu
| ||||
6b | Follow the line
| ||||
6b | Monsieur propre
| ||||
La Flégère Aiguille de l'Index | |||||
3+ | ★★ Arête SE
| 100m | |||
5b | ★★ Brunat-Perroux
| 250m, 7 | |||
6a | ★ La complainte des eaux-vins
| 250m, 6 | |||
La Flégère Chapelle de la Glière | |||||
6a | ★★★ Arête sud
1
5a
2
4b
3
4a
4
5b
5
5a
6
4a
7
5c
8
5a
9
5a
10
3c
11
3c
12
5a
13
6a
| 400m | |||
La Flégère La Cathédrale | |||||
6a+ | ★ Au Bord du Gouffre
| 230m | |||
6b+ | La Cour des Grands
| 200m | |||
6b+ | Proche est la Mer
| 140m | |||
La Flégère Aiguille du Pouce | |||||
5c | ★★ Voie des Dalles
A classic slab climb with some tricky route finding. A few bolts guiding the way over the slabs, otherwise small cams and nuts. Depending on season you may need crampons and axe for approach & descent. FA: Kintzeler, Mallon & Marutzi, 1967 | 400m, 15 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie des Français
Climb up center of face L of big corner. FA: Kohlmann, Saint-Armand & Mazeaud, 1960 | 350m, 15 | |||
La Flégère Grande Floria | |||||
6a | Madagasikara
| 180m, 7 | |||
6a | Manhattan
| 130m, 5 | |||
5c+ | ★ Asia
| 250m | |||
6b | ★★ Les Neiges du Kilimandjaro
| 150m | |||
6b+ | Soho
1
6b+
2
6a+
FA: Michel Piola, 1995 | 45m, 2 | |||
6a | Robin Wood
| 120m | |||
5b | La plage
| 120m, 4 | |||
La Flégère Aiguilles Crochues | |||||
PD | ★★★ Crochues Traverse
From Rockfax: 6 - 8 hours. One of the most popular routes in the valley. The scrambling is excellent throughout and the rock quality is consistently good until the initial part of the descent, but this is low-angled and brief. Other than the pegs on the first pitch and bolts on the abseil, the route is unequipped so you'll need a rack, albeit a fairly small one. Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard before climbing the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Continue up the path to the col. The final rocky step to the col is up a left-slanting crack which may feel a bit tricky if wet, so you may be glad of a rope on this section. From the col, go east over 50m of easy ground, along a vague ledge system up and rightwards, underneath the Crochues west ridge to reach the foot of the chimney which marks the start of the route - around 1 hour from the chairlift.
Descent: From the north summit, descend to Lac Blanc by scrambling down the Crochues North Ridge for 100m to where the ridge widens out and becomes less solid. Drop off the ridge rightwards and descend a scree/snow slope eastwards towards Lac Blanc. This slope is often snowy well into the summer season but it is the ideal angle for glissading so you can normally get away without crampons. If you leave the crampons behind and realise you need them for the descent, it is possible to carry on along the Crochues north ridge towards the Col du Dards. Shortly before reaching this the ridge drops steeply away and from here, make a 20m abseil east to reach the scree/snow slope where the angle is much lower. Continue down to Lac Blanc and either return to the Index chairlift (45 minutes from Lac Blanc) on an undulating path or descend down to the Flégère cable car (90 minutes). FA: P.le Bec & T.de Lépiney, 1920 | 500m | |||
5c | ★★★ Ravanel route
South Ridge to the South Summit An excelen, long bolted rock rout, F 5c - 1 move 6a.
FA: G.Chapus & S.Ravanel, 2003 | 400m, 15 | |||
6b | ★★★ Curaçao
1
6b
2
6b
3
6b
4
6a+
5
5c
6
5c
| 250m, 6 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Cap'tain Crochue
1
6a
2
6a
3
6b
4
6a
5
6b+
| 180m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★★ Atome Crochue
1
6a+
2
6a
3
6b
4
6a
5
6b
| 180m, 5 | |||
La Flégère Aiguille de la Glière | |||||
5c | ★★ Mani Puliti
| 150m | |||
5a | ★★ Modern Times
A nice bolted climb with great views. Start altitude: 2,225m Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, head slightly left towards the buttress. The route is on the wall facing you. Enter the route from the right of the buttress, up where the terrain gets noticeably more vertical.
Descent: Scramble down a route off the back of the buttress towards a loose gully between you and l’Index. Scramble generally leftwards down the gully towards an equipped 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil walk directly back to the chairlift. FA: R.Grindley, E.Grindley & M.Johnson, 2007 | 190m, 6 | |||
Aiguille de la glière Sud - Arrête sud
| |||||
La Flégère Tête des Evettes / Pic Janvier | |||||
AD | Via des Evettes
Via Ferrata avec un pont de singe de 15m et un pont himalayen de 30m. Échappatoires possibles en de nombreux endroits. 1 heure de parcours. Très fréquenté. | 150m | |||
Le Lac Blanc Aiguille du Belvédère | |||||
6b | ★ Arsène Luchini
1
6a
2
6b
3
6a+
4
5b
5
5b
6
6a
7
5c
8
5a
FA: 1995 | 300m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Baisers Orageux
1
6a
2
6c+
3
6c+
4
3
5
6b
6
6b+
7
6c+
8
6c+
9
6a+
FA: Michel Piola & Pascal Strappazzon, 1996 | 250m | |||
Le Lac Blanc Persévérance | |||||
4b | ★ S-ridge
A mountaineering route very little fixed pro (4 pegs in total including belays). Some loose rock on route. Some very nice exposed climbing on summit ridge. Tiresome approach and descent over loose ground. | 350m, 8 | |||
Aiguille de Praz Torrent | |||||
5+ | ★★ Voie Parat-Seigneur
| 250m, 9, 5 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ L'âge de glace
1
5c
2
6a
3
6a+
4
6b+
5
6b
Set: Michel Piola, 2009 | 5, 5 | |||
6b+ | Super Jacques
1
6b+
2
6b
3
6a+
4
6b
5
6a+
| 160m, 5 | |||
5+ | ★★★ Voie des Dalles
| 250m | |||
Les Aiguillettes d'Argentière | |||||
5c | ★★★ Rébuffat-Terray
| ||||
4b | ★ Normal Route
| ||||
5a | ★★ Cheminée
| ||||
4c | ★ Siesta
| ||||
5b | ★★ Bip-bip
| ||||
6a+ | ★ Pyrène
| 25m | |||
6a+ | L'épine d'ours
| ||||
5b | ★★★ Northeast Arête
1
5a
2
5b
| 25m, 2 | |||
6b | L'étagne
1
6b
2
2
3
6a+
| 3 | |||
6b | Petite Aiguillette
1
6b
2
2
3
6a
| 40m, 3 | |||
Les Chéserys | |||||
5c | La fée des druides
| 120m | |||
6a | Y
| 120m | |||
5b | ★★ Aubade
| 200m | |||
6a | ★★ Un père Noël pour Lucy
| 150m, 5 | |||
5b | ★★★ Voie Blanche
| 150m | |||
5c | Voie Blanche Direct start
| 35m | |||
6a+ | ★★ Dune
| 140m, 3 | |||
6a | Désert de Samba
| 140m, 4 | |||
4c | ★ Voie du Psychiatre
| 150m | |||
5b | ★ La voie de I'EMHM
| 150m, 5 | |||
5c | ★★★ Sur le fil (alt start to I'EHM)
| 30m | |||
5b | Gamathe
| 34m |