Ascents in Frankenjura having Beta

Aid pitch through the roof (from the anchor of Halber Hermann), set up hanging belay in the original position due to rope drag. Short pitch to the book case, then up over the bulge to the place where Schuhmacher comes in from the left. The top part was wet, so I decided to finish the Schuhmacher route.

Great first pitch in sublime rock. Knew the dihedral already from "Verbindungsweg". The traverse from the big rock tunnel to the right is also beautiful and easy. Second pitch starts off with tough boulder moves away from the ledge. Doesn't get much easier from there, but the rock is good and the protection is also fine (there's even a little tree to wrap a sling around in addition to the Bühler bolts and pegs). I aided a few sections, then retreated at the Bühler bolt on the next little ledge, since it was raining and the top part is chossy and was already quite wet. I'll gladly come back to finish the second pitch (and freely, too!).

My favorite multi-pitch in Frankenjura so far. Really good blend of pumpy, pockety, Franken-clibing, some alpine traversing, a nice chimney section, comfortable belays, and a cruise to the finish. Looking forward to attempting "Take Five" on the next time through.

Überraschend schwerer Einzelzug in der 6+. Die zweite Länge ist kurz, aber bietet eine sehr lustige Querung an dünnen Schuppen. Ausgesetzte semi alpine Kletterei über dem Wald. Echt cool.

Wenn man ein paar Stopper hat könnte man den Rest auch gut absichern.

Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Really alpine undertaking. Up a thin layback flake to a good bolt, then tough traverse to the left (keep low!) via a peg to a brittle slab (bigger cam). Up the slab via two bolts below the roof. The traverse to the left below the roof is the nicest part of the whole route, really enjoyable in beautiful rock, then around the corner and up the dihedral to the next roof. The hardest part is getting from the last bolt around the corner again to the belay, via slopers, some of which were wet. I tried a few times, got pumped quite hard, and the rope always snagged, so I couldn't easily pull up rope to clip the peg that was probably used as the anchor back in the day. In the end, I pulled on the carabiner to haul up rope. Not entirely satisfied, but I climbed everything freely, so still counting it. Probably I'll come back again, anyway, because there was no pencil for the book. The start of pitch 2 is actually the hardest part, very powerful layback moves on slopy holds. Took me a few attempts. The rest of the route is comparatively easy, but you should maybe back up the old rusty pegs with some gear. Still quite burly along the crack dihedral. Thorn bush before the exit, too.

first Onsight of an 8c in Fränkischen Schweiz

10/10+

First Woman to on-sight a 5.13b

Amazingly good moves through this overhanging corner with two rather obvious bouldery sections! Low expectations made me flew up this beauty with perfect flow; soo happy:)

Perfect mindset after onsighting the neighbouring lines:) got the boulder through the slopy crack in the end just perfect! Soo good but a few soaked holds

Never expected that because I was locking at the holds and simply couldn't even imagine how I'll get off the ground... did it with the mono and almost fell afterwards! Nice bouldery line:)

Maybe the sweaty 27 degrees lowered the expectations but I still almost slipped out of every pocket in the pretty long crux sequence and luckily found the right beta for the final crack! Super happy to have onsighted this endurance beauty:)

Soo good, deserves the 3 stars and the popularity! Getting harder the higher you get with the crux directly before the chains; super happy that I could keep my mind calm especially during my shocking footslip on the last move and hanging with only one arm in the topjug definitely brought up even more adrenalin and happiness for sure:)

This perfect chimney from the middle on is definitely the most fun part of this hidden kingline! Missed all this 3D climbing during the pasg month in Céüse quite a lot;) steep athletic crux represents the name perfectly

Lots of varied and beautiful tricky moves from the bottom to the top of this vertical slab but the hardest move is the very last one directly in front of the chains! Thx to everyone for cheering me up:)

Crazyy moves through this steep overhang including a few kneebar and jaming tricks;) pretty close at the crux because I haven'tbseen the jug on the right side at first...

Superb classic! Not that hard if you find all the hidden pockets:)

Quite a close battle through the bouldery lower part!

Endlich mol ned den onsight versemmelt;) geile abwechslungsreiche querung bei ders heißt dran bleibn bis zum schluss!

Hamma Tour, vui besser als Stalingrad! Ois dabei vor allem fieser Seitgriffzangenzug ganz zum Schluss;)

Dancing up this slab pretty relaxed;) felt easier than the 7b's here but awesome climbing anyway!

Riesenkellen bis zum letztn haken, dann pumpiger lochboulder!

Way easier to onsight than the one to the left and much more beautiful; anither must-do off the list

Sau schwer wenn der ganze Körper vor Hitze fast überkocht dann no gscheid gaszumgebn an da wand... kraftig pressig durchs Dach mit Crux an da Kante, an der i fast verhungert wär, what a battle!:)

Thx Martin for the hanging draws, a few ticks and the supportive belay through this bouldery dance! Perfect bolting with not too many bolts;)

Didn't caught any flow at all, did almost everything wrong especially by holding the positive crimp in the crux with the wrong hand... but somehow made it to the chains with the pump of my life! Thx for the support Moritz

Awesome corner wrestling with totally sore legs and shoulders afterwards! Even much better than it looks from ground;)

Real redpoint! Luckily I saved the onsight for a day when I feel fresh;) did every move/clip with a toehook to somehow stay on the wall especially because it took me soo long to decide what to do; it would have been possible to climb the route at least 5 times during my long battle;))

5 star climbing up this overhanging arête on pretty tiny crimps! The rain washed all the chalk out of the crux, so it was a real onsight but somehow the 6b crack in the beginning still felt harder;) going for the direct version next time!

Classic line! The original beta is supposed to go through the blue stripe but all the chalk was 1m to right... still pumped as hell at the top!

Amazing testpiece. 10 meters of powerful jugfest, getting harder to the end. Then you find yourself in a chimney and you have to rub your body to the left, not having secure positions. Finally some easy traversing to the anchor.

Bouldery through this little roof followed by a spicy slab;)

Super route with unique start. Tasteless name though. Maybe 9?

Nice line, hard bouldery start and a technical and crimpy wall climb afterwards

Great climbing, long one for the Frankenjura, two sequences with small underclings where a lot of core ist an advantage.

Nice crimpy and technoical route!

9/9+ #soft

9/9+ #hard

9/9+

Wanted to try this gem since I saw it the first time two years ago and luckily all the waiting paid off;) took me while to find all the hidden holds while dancing up this edge!

Biggest battle in my entire life!!! Fought about 1 hour in the final slab to find the right beta for small people like me... my whole body is still pumped! Soo good:)