Ascents in Burggruber Wand

Interesting slab problem. Footwork!

Quite an interesting and well-protected traverse after the easy dihedral start. Technique wins.

Just gave it a shot because someone needed to get the draws out of the start of "Freundschaft". Gave up at the last bolt because it seemed super hard and blank and I didn't want to pull on the bad mono.

Always nice to do these old cracks. #repeat

By no means a good #warmup. Got pumped pretty quickly and then I was a bit afraid to move past the first bolt. Considering this, I got pretty far in the end. Had to sit in the rope just before the end, where the crack ends and you're supposed to hold some small pockets. Worked out a beta for that part and then redid the crack part, which suddenly seemed so much easier.

Almost ruined it at the very end … phew! Great crack line. However, the way to the first bolt is brittle and with sharp holds. Once you're there, it's a very good layback crack with pocket finish. Two stars without the start.

Small holds that are hard on the fingers, technical but sustained at the same time, and two reachy moves into mediocre pockets. Felt more like 9- than 8+, but I guess the slash grade is sensible.

Strenuous crack, gets you pumped quite heavily. Beautiful line, though. Went direct at the start and fought my way up the middle section in layback. Great exit on jugs.

Incredibly homogenous route except for the short rest where the slab begins. Tricky and balancy moves, relatively small but varied holds. The direct finish seems forced, you can just go up in reach of the last bolt and then step right to the anchor.

Funny crack with a chimney-like exit. Harder if you've got a big belly.

Took a sit at the first reachy move, didn't have my feet right. Felt really hard first try, but turns out I didn't spot a mediocre rest on the side before the last bolt.

8+/9-

One Move Wonder

FFA.

FFA.