Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7- | ★ Die Schuppe | 22m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
7- | ★ Die Schuppe | 22m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
7 | ★ Kalte Finger | 20m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne | 20m | |||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
8+/9- | ★ Carabosse — 3 attempts | ||||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
6 ~6+ | ★★ Für Heini - with Sabi | 12m | |||||
5 ~5- | ★ Schlafende Schöne - with Sabi | 20m | |||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge — 2 attempts | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Too hot today
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Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7 7+ | ★ Anschlag - with Matthias Felix | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice flowy line (if you find it; not sure if I branched off correctly). The top section is great climbing, but didn't feel like 7+ to me.
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7+ | ★ Direkter Einstieg - with Matthias Felix | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Short boulder over the little rooflet.
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6+ | ★★ Linker Streich - with mantra | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Captivating line. The wider section can be climbed as a chimney, interesting section after the big chock stone. Lots of good placements, I sort of zipped it up, only had a single nut left when I reached the anchor (single set of cams from green to blue plus various medium to big stoppers).
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6+ | Mamma Mia - with mantra | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A tad bold, especially the way to the second bolt (if you're tempted, like me, to go up the dihedral as far as you can), but a fun climb!
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7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers - with Matthias Felix | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- | Die Wampe - with mantra | ||||||
Getting to the third bolt is intimidating but actually a juggy stroll. The crux is right at the bolt. This has worked for me: Steer away from the inviting mishmash of too small pockets and go left hand into the crimp straight above. Feet up and then semi-dyno into the jug. Watch the barndoor. Go right in the other tricky section.
Got some pain in my back afterwards and decided to postpone the next attempt for another day. |
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6+ | Mamma Mia - with mantra | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini - with mantra | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne | 20m | |||||
7 | ★ Kalte Finger | 20m | |||||
7+ | ★ Anschlag | 30m | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
8+/9- Hard | ★ Carabosse - with Jonas Wagner | ★ Good | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini - with Jonas Wagner | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge - with Jonas Wagner | 30m | Average | ||||
7 ~7- | ★ Warme Füße - with Jonas Wagner | 20m | Average | ||||
7 ~7- | ★ Warme Füße - with Florian Fischer | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Anschlag | 30m | |||||
8+/9- | ★ Carabosse | ||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | |||||
ein Traum, sehr abwechslungsreich.
2nd Go |
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini - with Stefan | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route with lots of good holds and sidepulls on ledges and flakes.
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7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers - with Stefan | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky section in the middle of the route on underclings.
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7- | ★ Die Schuppe - with Stefan | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Juggy, easy climbing at a huge flake followed by a short crimpy crux.
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7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
7- | ★ Die Schuppe | 22m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne | 20m | |||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne | 20m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter - with ASG | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Gutes Aufwärmen.
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5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter - with ASG | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Gutes Aufwärmen.
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6 | ★★ Für Heini - with ASG | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Richtig schöne flowige Genusskletterei, bis oben.
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8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge - with ASG | 30m | Average | ||||
Nicht mein Ding. Start richtig hart (fehlt da was?), dann lange sehr leicht und nach der Schuppe wieder unfassbar schwierig. Dann wieder simpel. Ist mir zu inhomogen.
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers - with Štěpán Paulík | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini - with Charlotte | 12m | |||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
6+ | Mamma Mia | 15m, 4 | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
9- | Rauchende Finger | ||||||
9+ | Wachgeküsst - Rechtsausstieg | ||||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | |||||
Sat 2nd Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried it some years ago without any chance in the boulder at the fist and second bolt. This year it felt way better and in the end it went surprisingly fast 2nd bolt pre-clipped...
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Fri 21st Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | |||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | |||||
7- | ★ Die Schuppe | 22m | |||||
7+ | ★ Anschlag | 30m | |||||
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Teilweise nass und dadurch gar nicht so leicht...
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6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 3rd Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne - with Jenny | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice and easy, the better warmup.
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5- | ★ Es Werde Licht - with Jenny | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
Starts with a chimney and then traverses to the right. Both are not my preferred climbing styles, but I enjoyed it.
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6+ | Mamma Mia - with Jenny | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Jenny tried it, retreated after clipping the first bolt, because getting to the second bolt is really scary... I succeeded in clipping the second bolt by going right and reaching quite far with the panic quickdraw to the left (direct didn't seem to be possible at least for the grade).. That was no fun. After the second bolt, it gets easier, but the route got into my head. Just read the description here ("must have been bolted by someone 2m tall"), true that...
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Fri 22nd May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5- | ★ Es Werde Licht | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
5 | ★ Schlafende Schöne | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 17th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7+ | Fichtentrick | Don't Bother | |||||
Fri 3rd Aug 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | |||||
7 | ★ Der Flug des Bohrers | 12m | |||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | |||||
Mon 28th May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | |||||
3erd go, ab der 3. Exe mega schöne Kletterei und meine erste frankenjura route:)
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Fri 4th May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz - with K.P. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Foot slipped after the crux boulder so I fell. The rest went through without any problems.
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9- | ★★ Märchenprinz - with Markus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Boulder section worked out nicely, even though I changed beta again on the fly. Messed up in the upper section a bit, but had enough strength left to juggle the holds around and make it to the top anyway.
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6+ 6/6+ | Rechter Streich - with K.P. | 15m, 3 | Average | ||||
The bolting is a bit strange, since it seems you might be able to climb it a bit more nicely with the left side of the body in the crack. Didn't dare to do it like this, so I bridged up on bad feet and even worse holds, way harder than 6+ like this. Not really a warmup route (although it does warm you up).
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Tue 24th Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Direkter Einstieg | 5m | |||||
7+ | ★ Anschlag | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7+ 8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★ Die Schuppe | 22m | |||||
5- | ★ Es Werde Licht | 26m | |||||
Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
6+ | Mamma Mia | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
7+ 8- | ★ Sieben Zwerge | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Böse Stiefmutter | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★ Warme Füße (Warme Füsse) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | Rechter Streich | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | |||||||
5- | ★ Es Werde Licht | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Für Heini | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8+ | ★★★ Gebrüder Grimmig (Gebruder Grimmig) | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5th go, ultragut!
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