Ascents in Dromedar

#FA 1st go after checking out the moves while coming down from the neighbouring line! One of the best lines here with a pretty hard boulder through the roof with bad underclings and then topping out in 'why so serious':) with the jugs to the left more like 7c so it's a bit defined;) biggest thanks to Kevin for bolting and letting me try another beauty!

1st go; much more interesting boulder then in the one to the left! Tricky foot crossover to stand up;)

#FA Megaa Linie de ganze Kante nauf mit geilen Monoboulder und flachn Leisten zum Schluss:) Team-FA mit Kevin!

Feeling surprisingly confident on those underclings;) big move from a pretty sharp crimp in the end! Much better than it looks!

Worked out a beta for the boulder start. Sorting your fingers correctly into the small crimper pockets is half the battle. I then bumped up to the crimp above the first bolt (which is now technically the second, because it has been rebolted, but the old bolts are still in), and with my left foot on the good horn and left hand on a crimp up left, I rocked over on a high foot on the right to reach a good crimp. The upper part is cruisy if you know where the pockets are.

Carried out the beta as practised. (First old bolt preclipped.)

Didn't want to push my luck after a few hard catches, toes hurting and the ring finger of my right hand putting up subtle warning signs. Already struggled quite a lot to the second bolt, which felt hard. The crux is to get into the tiny sidepull while having your feet high enough to reach into the pocket next to the third bolt.

1st go; almost felt like campusing until you're standing in the slab;)

Tough onsight … almost fell off just below the anchor. The start is relatively straightforward, but with a powerful section over the bulge. The middle part is easy slab climbing along the arête. In the end, the holds suddenly get much smaller and the moves quite irreversible, so I had only one chance. I grabbed something that turned out to be bad, but I didn't fall, so I changed my grip, which made it even worse. So I changed grip again – why didn't I fall? I don't know – and it was okayish, so I could pull up my foot and get to another near-no-hands rest, and even less holds to go up on, so I basically walked up quite far into a sidepull and could clip the anchor from the right. No idea if there's a more direct variant.

Guade kletterei! Oamol duschn sparn nachdem mi bei den letztn 5m und beim umbaun a gewitterschauer komplett abgeduscht hat... leida war des ganze kletterzeug au pitschepatsche nass!

Elegant moves up a nearly vertical slab; the holds alternate between small crimps/pockets and positive jugs. With the additional first bolt, the protection is fine.

2nd go

Apparently a new route. Difficult passage over the second bolt. Thick layer of moist chalk on the holds, had to brush everything first …

Crux on slopery holds to a crimp at the second bolt. Most of the holds above the crux are slightly negative, so even with only 10 meters of climbing, some pump ensues.

Lots of fun with a few good handjams:)

Nach Sanierung undPutzaktion vom Kev richtig guade lohnende Tour!

Great wall climbing, freshly rebolted. Extraordinary slab passage after the no-hands rest. Stood there for ages before committing to the beta that Tobias used, which barely worked and felt certainly harder than 8-, I would say at least 8. The sentiment was shared by other (much stronger) climbers at the crag, who hesitated just as long there. Getting to the anchor after that is still not easy and feels insecure. #warmup

2nd go

Didn't notice any necessary jumps here for my size. Two long moves to jugs, though. Nice wall climbing with some more surprise jugs in the end.

Good line along the crack in the arête. A nice fingerlock to clip the second bolt, otherwise strenuous laybacks to the break. A nut comes in handy there, but didn't have one with me, so I slotted my prusik sling into the crack, which works just as well. A bomber fist jam gets you to the anchor. #lastrouteoftheday

Perfect hands to fist crack in good rock; not even wet or dirty today! There is no anchor, so when the moss got too thick I traversed left to the anchor of the neighbouring route. I should climb it on trad gear next time.

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