Ascents in Frankendorf having Beta

Finde schon, dass 8 ganz gut hinkommt

Fragwürdige Route. Fängt gut an mit netten boulderproblem, danach bis zweiten Haken auch okay, aber ab dann Schrott. Rechts halten über loses Geröll und Moos, Haken suchen; ein weiterer netter Zug, dann wieder Geröll und Moos, oben kein vernünftiger Umlenker. Auch unter „direkt“ wie der routenname lautet, verstehe ich etwas anderes. Ich rate die Route auszulassen, sorry.

Toll, um Keile zu üben

Große Schuppe fühlt sich nicht vertrauensvoll an.

Achtung, der Ring ist sehr weit links! Ich habe nur Brösel in der Hand gehabt und bin oben ausgestiegen. Nicht zu empfehlen!

Placed two nuts before first bolt, top has loose rocks

Preclipped second bolt, fun route

Placed two nuts before first bolt

Vom 2. zum 3. nach hinten an den Turm rausgetreten. Bietet sich halt an. Ohne dann vielleicht 8.

Richtig gut. Für den Durchstieg hat dann das Tageslicht leider nicht mehr gelangt.

Good climb, especially the nice arête after the second bolt. Crux is to get there. The massive block after the rusty peg is already quite hollow, I hope it stays in the wall for some more time. #lastrouteoftheday

Quite elegant climbing in solid rock. The top section, as always, crumbles a little.

Easy slab to the ledge (also possible to start via the wide crack), then short, but good crack climbing, slightly overhanging. The finish is a bit crumbly, but there are enough solid holds so it's not unpleasant. #warmup

The epitome of choss. The whole south face of this slim, leaning tower is loose, it's a miracle that someone found rock solid enough to place three bolts in this mess (and I still wouldn't recommend taking a fall on those). While the lower part is held together a bit by ivy, the top section is just completely crumbly, you can basically make your own holds as you go, just peel off a few chips until something more solid appears, and then some to make the hold more ergonomic.

Climbed everything up to the piton before the finishing crack, then gave the last meters a few shots, but the crack was wet and the surrounding ledges were full of wet moss, so I didn't dare to go on. The protection was fine, but it was quite desperate. KP eventually threw a rope down, so I could finish the last meter (cleanly, but in a really sketchy way).

Yep, it's a chimney. A grimy one at that. Probably hasn't seen an ascent in the last 30 or so years. The later Bühler guidebooks got the description wrong, there's no chock that can be passed inside or out; what is meant is the big block at the end of the chimney, which can be attacked from the left or the right (modern climbing technique and rubber shoes allow for the obvious third option …). No anchor, the chimney runs out into the forest to the hiking path. It's a loooong way down. It's probably best to bring a rope, then abseil from the viewpoint you reach when going left on the hiking trail.

I actually wanted to do the easiest route up, which supposedly is "Südwand". I highly doubt that this route has anything to do with UIAA 3, more like 3 A0 with human pyramid, and a good deal of boldness. This crack, however, is a nice, straightforward climb with some jams to rest and relatively good holds overall. Quite short, of course. #jahreserste2022

Nice dihedral line with a diagonal traverse at the end. Relatively good rock (sure, relatively speaking), hard to clean, it's best to to thread the rope once more at the book case if you don't have a second.

Good climbing in dubious rock. Enjoyable if you pull carefully. The last bolt before the ledge in the middle sits in a hollow flake. A little harder than Klöpfel-Nord.

Considering that the whole crag is a pile of choss (but in a … good way?), this might be the most solid and the most attractive line here. Quite varied; great crack in the lower third, then a powerful overhang, a little wall climbing and a (ok, it's chossy …) slab to the top.

Climbed the original line, which traverses in from the left via the obvious diagonal ledge on beautiful holds! Arguably better and certainly easier than the start indicated by the first bolt (which you can hardly reach this way). Nice moves on the arête to the top.

Elegant and beautiful wall climbing in solid rock (only one wobbly little block, but that one should be safe for a good while).

Nice crack dihedral to the first bolt (careful with the big flake, don't pull it too hard). Climbed the original line (I think) which traverses left at the first bolt to avoid the even more brittle part of the flake, then goes back up to the right, all the while following the most solid portions of the wall (the old farts were much more sensible in this respect …).

Would be easy to protect via the chockstones. The upper part is more like a gully, you can walk up the dirt or stem your way further up to a nearby bolt.

nice route that passes over several little bulges and requires you to place one foot quite high while holding on to slopers

Tricky technical moves in a groove. Hard crux for the grade.

sustained vertical climbing on slopers, nice but pumpy

Probably hasn't been done in a few decades, but it's hard to say because many entries in the book don't mention the route by which it was reached. Interesting little sloper traverse, slightly downwards.

Climbs the chimney further on the outside (two bolts), then passes the chockstone on the right. Harald complained that I solved it "too elegantly", because there are good holds in the wall to the right of the chock stone, making it a nice overhanging finish, while he fought his way up the offwidth between chock and wall.

Just as good, if not better than, Orgasmatron. Highly technical, with great moves, quite reachy (at least with my improvised onsight beta) with a lot of shoulder engagement. Not easy to read and still dusty from the winter. Terrific crux sequence towards the end. Threaded a sling around the old rusty bar shortly below the anchor.

One of the first routes here, starts in the north face, traverses through the west face (some holds are almost certainly not 100% natural) to the south-western corner, then easy up to the belay. While technically interesting when climbed freely, it's hardly ever done of course.

Great, easy chimney with good footholds and an interesting finish through the blocks.

Nice dihedral. The way to the first bolt is easy, but can also be protected nicely with bigger cams. Interesting crack/dihedral passage that transitions into a short chimney at the end.

High first bolt, you can place small cams on the way, otherwise it's quite bold. From there it's well-protected and a nice face climb with interesting movements considering it was a former aid route. A green dragon fits into a pocket in the traverse, but I had only a red one with me, so only David could benefit from that knowledge.

Great caving adventure. Astonishingly, it was dry despite all the outside faces being wet or at least damp. You walk into a ravine, then turn right into a narrow chimney, walk through it till the end and then go up towards the light. At least if you follow the Bühler description. Originally, this seems to have been climbed in the narrow part. Which makes sense, because there's a bolt on top where you surface. Abseiling through the chimney is also fun. ;-)

Sehr brüchig

A tiny bit harder than climbing the wall on the right.

Climbs the narrow chimney, hence the name. Wrongly described in many guide books, the two bolts in the wall to the left of the chimney belong to "Vorblockweg".

Nice little practice climb. Already described in the 1931 guide, hence the route names "Miri" and "Markus" are bogus.

No chance 😂😒