Ascents in Obertrubach having Beta

Varied climbing, a bit polished.

Erster Haken vorgeclippt. Technischer Einstiegsboulder nach gefühlt nochmal 15 Gos endlich geknackt. Mit der richtigen Beta gar nicht so schwer.

Einstieg über links.

zugesifft

Fuss knapp unterm Umlenker weggerutscht.

Jahreserste 2024

VORSICHT: Ein Siebenschläfer (o.ä.) nistet in der Route. Sie sollte daher nicht begangen werden

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weird

Glattpolierte Griffe / Polished holds

9- wenn man den original Weg geht.

Rain set in just as we started, so we were absolutely drenched when we arrived at the top. Good fun, nevertheless.

Reached the mediocre sloper rail before the crux with manageable pump but slipped off a foothold. Caught myself, but couldn't recover completely from this lapse of concentration. Also turns out the right-hand beta is probably harder to pull off when pumped. Tried the left-hand beta again (from the sloper rail, high left foot, rock up, grab the undercling although it feels awkward, get right foot up somehow, then bump up twice, this time with the right hand) and it seems to work just as well and it's maybe the safer option.

I was completely pumped before I even reached the crux. No wonder given the high temps. I wonder why we didn't think about that. Nevertheless, I got through the crux with the right-hand beta (sloper crimp with thumb catch, high foot left, bump up twice to the reasonably good hold, right foot up and match hands).

Top Route, ausdauernd

speckiger Klassiker, leider zuwenig Zeit

an sich schöner Riss aber bis zum Abzweig purer Speck

Good climbing in dark rock. A bit dusty, though. You can bridge to the other wall to make it easier.

Climbed the route along a line more true to the original given in old guidebooks by traversing left in the steepest part of "Seifertriss". Climbed freely, the traverse leads slightly upwards instead of down, so the rope runs smoothly if you leave out the first bolt after reaching the crack of Affenschaukel. Funnily enough, this variant felt almost better than what is most climbed nowadays because it leaves out the steep, greasy boulder and replaces it with sustained, overhanging pocket climbing in the traverse.

As described in the early Frankenjura guidebooks. Interestingly, the description changed over the years and the overhanging dihedral in the beginning was replaced by a traverse from the right. This might actually be easier but I haven't tried it yet. The overhanging dihedral is juggy but the holds are quite far apart and it's a bit sustained. From the ledge it's relaxed climbing; of course the finish is the best part.

Felt quite strong in the roof and after one sit figured out a good solution.

Definitely much better with higher temps. Last time, in winter, the sharp holds were killing my skin. Perfect conditions today. Unusual style for me because my beta involves quite a few dynamic bumps. The upper part is still tricky and exhausting, almost fell off when I lunged to a sloper and didn't stick it fully. Readjusting luckily worked out and I could muster the strength to pull up into the rest.

Guess I was better at this back in 2015. That's what I get for giving up going to the bouldering gym.

Hard to read, lots of pockets

Easy if you have the reach and go right. Nicer sequence and slightly harder if you go left.

About 5 tries in total.

Hard first clip and then a bouldery move too an easy finish.

2 tries in the end of the session. Too bad, next time 🚀

amazing 3d roof climbing on jugs

saw beta from non-crack climber

Wenn von ganz unten geklettert schwerer.. Und aufregender.

Sharp holds, like a blunt knife

Tricky crux

Beautiful climb. Polished fit holds make you grip just that bit harder… goes about 20/21. Again with the grade translations 😅

AU to German grading is a tad tricky. This one felt about a 19/20

Crux in the upper half can be solved statically with controlled movements. Not too powerful more calm moves.