A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Todsfelder Tal
114 in Area
- 1.1. Albrecht-Dürer-Fels 14 in Crag
- 1.2. Brüchige Wand 43 in Crag
- 1.3. Kugelspielturm 4 in Crag
- 1.4. Todsfeldturm 3 in Crag
- 1.5. Nebelsteiner Wand 8 in Crag
- 1.6. Kapuziner 4 in Crag
- 1.7. Todsfeldwand / Thuisbrunner Wand 6 in Crag
- 1.8. Thuisbrunner Block / Heidenstein / Raketenriss 6 in Crag
- 1.9. Thuisbrunner Felsen 10 in Crag
- 1.10. Bahnhof 5 in Crag
- 1.11. Haidhofer Schlossbergwand 11 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Todsfelder Tal 114 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.690031, 11.247041
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
ethic
1.1. Albrecht-Dürer-Fels 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.695872, 11.265066
summary
Home to some of the hardest slab climbs in the Frankenjura.
approach
Coordinates:
/c4/65/c465c64143a957478a5b6b23c3e5c9e5874c58c0) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Talseite | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ Talseite
FA: 1941 | 7- | 28m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Talseite, rechter Einstieg
FA: Erwin Weich & Kurt Nelkenbrecher, 1967 | 7- | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 4 |
Talseite, rechter Ausstieg
Second pitch of “Talseite”. Traverses to the right below the last bolt, up to a grassy ledge, then through the crack to the summit. FA: Dieter Cukrowski, 1942 | 5 A1 | 20m | |||||
| 5 |
Wolf im Schafspelz
FFA: Jochen Kempf, 2002 | 9+ | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Seitlicher Schmarotzer
Einstieg Rissspur, leichte Querung links, technisch nach oben. Lange tolle Linie. FA: Heiko Queitsch, 2023 | 8 | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 7 |
Kameradschaftsweg
Riss, Querung ganz nach rechts, und übers Buch Rissspur aussteigen. FA: W. Wildner & J. Günther, 1957 FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 1999 | 8- | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 8 |
Weiße Hände
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1983 | 8+/9- | ||||||
| 9 |
Enenen
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1984 | 9 | ||||||
| 10 |
Kameradschaftsweg, Direkteinstieg
Teilt sich Einstieg mit „Enenen“, nach dem dritten Haken rechts queren (Keil legen) und Risspur über Wandbuch nach oben. FA: 1979 FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 1999 | 7+/8- | 25m, 8 | |||||
Bergseite | ||||||||
| 12 |
Nordkamin
FA: Oskar Bühler, 1963 | 4 | ||||||
| 13 |
Nordwand
The first route here. Not climbable in the current state. FA: Georg Bauer & Adam Ballenberger, 1928 | 5 A1 | ||||||
/0a/42/0a42349fd38bdd4da7beb03c349f567b3ce1aa24) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 14 |
★ Bergseite
FA: M. Polzien & R. Hölle, 1963 | 5+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Dürers Hinterkopf
FA: Heiko Queitsch, 1998 | 7+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 16 | Normalweg | 1 | 10m | |||||
1.2. Brüchige Wand 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.692167, 11.261599
summary
Large crag with lots of classic routes that have an alpine feel to them. The rock quality is not as bad as the name suggests, there are some worthwile routes to be found.
description
With around 35 meters, Brüchige Wand is the largest crag in the Todsfelder Tal and offers some generous lines in the lower grades with alpine feel.
Most routes have been re-equipped over the last few years, but the nature of the classic climbs was kept, so you might want to bring some nuts and slings.
approach
Parking is provided in front of the church in Thuisbrunn. (
49.6880141, 11.2498821) From there, walk north past the graveyard and church and then turn right onto the path leading into Todsfeld valley. The crag will be visible after a few minutes. Follow the path until you are directly opposite the wall, then walk down over the small bridge and across the grass. A small path leads up to the foot of the crag.
⛰️ (49.69181, 11.26163)
1.3. Kugelspielturm 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 49.692444, 11.260844
approach
50m left of Brüchige Wand GPS: 11.26100, 49.69209
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Westseite | 2 | 8m | |||
| 2 |
Talseite
FA: Dieter Cukrowski, 1955 | 6+ | 30m | |||
| 3 | Playball | 6A+ | ||||
| 4 |
Direkte Talseite
FA: Toni Erdenkäufer, 1975 | 6- A1 | 12m | |||
1.4. Todsfeldturm 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 49.691970, 11.262454
approach
(49.6880141, 11.2498821)
Right of Brüchige Wand
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Talseite
FFA: Rudolf Buchner, 1964 | 3+ | 10m | |||
| 2 | Bergseite | 3 | 10m | |||
| 3 | Wanderslust | 5B | ||||
1.5. Nebelsteiner Wand 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.690944, 11.261435
summary
Nordseiter Fels mit langen, lohnenden Routen.
description
Wand wurde nachsaniert und hat nun eine deutlich bessere Absicherung.
approach
(49.6880141, 11.2498821)
GPS: (49.69099, 11.26156)
 /48/60/4860aaf23311c17de610e73114a2237955e5c310) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Dreierweg
Erste Hälfte bedarf etwas mehr Begehungen, Tour kann gut zusätzlich abgesichert werden. | 5+ | 25m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Flotter Dreier
Tolle Tour im sechsten Grad. Unterer Teil knifflige Platte und dann Oben über große Henkel in lecht abdrängendem Gelände. FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1990 | 6 | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Smoothoperator
FFA: Thomas Timme | 8- | 27m, 5 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Direkte Nebelsteiner | 7- | 27m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Alte Nebelsteiner
FA: P. Spiegel, 1931 | 5+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 6 | Frankenriss | 5 | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Roofoperator
FFA: Thomas Timme | 8 | 20m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Schwedenriss
Nach 2m grünem Einstieg wartet überraschend gute Kletterei, mit guter Absicherung. FA: | 5 | 20m, 6 | |||||
1.6. Kapuziner 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.691044, 11.261838
summary
Thin tower in front of Nebelsteiner Wand.
description
Free-standing needle with a short route up the backside (south) and a few long, exposed climbs in the north face. Nice view from the tiny summit.
access issues
The topmost block of the summit is unstable and has already been supported with concrete. Please treat it with care and respect!
approach
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Bergseite
FA: | 3- | 8m | |||
| 2 |
Ostkante
FA: | 5+ | 20m, 2 | |||
| 3 |
★ Linke Talseite
Lohnende Kletterei, welche mit Keilen zusätzlich gesichert werden kann. Exponierte Kletterei mit Gipfelerlebnis. FA: | 6- | 28m, 5 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Talseite
Zugewachsen. FA: | 5 | 25m, 2 | |||
1.7. Todsfeldwand 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.690928, 11.259889
approach
GPS:(49.69097, 11.25992)
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sepplweg | 3+ | ||||
| 2 | Linker Todsfelder Weg | 5 | ||||
| 3 | Rechter Todsfelder Weg / Türmchenweg | 5- | ||||
| 4 | Todsfelder Kante | 4 | 20m | |||
| 5 | Buchenkante | 5 | ||||
| 6 | Todsfelder Kamin | 3+ | ||||
1.8. Thuisbrunner Block 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.689720, 11.252332
summary
Roundish block with a classic chimney crack in the middle, surrounded by hard overhanging routes in the 9th grade.
approach
Park at the church in Thuisbrunn (49.6880141, 11.2498821). Walk north past the church entrance and turn right into the Todsfeldtal in front of the "Lamahütte" (llama hut). Follow the broad forest road for 200 meters and the crag is directly on your right.
⛰️ (49.68977, 11.25224)
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Frankenshow | 9 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
Berliner Weg
FA: H. Rehfeld, 1973 | 8+ | ||||||
| 3 |
★★★ Raketenriss
FA: B. Hager & P. Schrögler, 1930 | 5+ | 15m, 2 | |||||
| 4 | Flashpoint | 9- | ||||||
| 5 | Mehr Sein als Schein | 9+ | ||||||
| 6 |
Altlast
FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2016 | 9+/10- | ||||||
1.9. Thuisbrunner Felsen 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.690797, 11.248385
description
Small crag with beginner friendly routes in lower grades. Good protection overall. A much frequented hiking trail goes right by the walls. Area is suitable for children. Crag will probably not be empty on sunny days. Parking nearby can be hard, because of many other tourists and climbers. There is a bigger parking spot by the church in town. Notice, that toilet paper should be buried in the ground and not be left for hikers and locals to see.
approach
GPS: 11.24842, 49.69073
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Linke Abseilwand | 4+ | 10m, 3 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Mittlere Abseilwand | 5+ | 10m, 3 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Rechte Abseilwand | 6 | 10m, 3 | |||||
| 4 | ★ Piazschuppe | 6+ | 10m, 2 | |||||
| 5 | ★ Westkante | 5+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 6 | Linker Pfeilerweg | 6 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 7 | ★ Rechter Pfeilerweg | 6+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 8 | ★ Pfeilerkamin | 3 | 6m, 1 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | ★★ Verschneidung | 4 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 10 | ★★★ Plattenkante | 4+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
1.10. Bahnhof 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.685136, 11.247325
approach
GPS: 11.24733, 49.68517
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Trittbrettfahrer | 9 | ||||
| 2 | Achterbahn | 9 | ||||
| 3 | Powertrain | 10- | ||||
| 4 | Betreten Verboten | 9- | ||||
| 5 | Night Train | 8 | ||||
1.11. Haidhofer Schlossbergwand 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.692795, 11.218996
approach
GPS: 11.21905, 49.69289
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Thuisbrunner Weg | 4 | 13m, 2 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Haidhofer Weg Direktausstieg | 5+ | 13m, 2 | |||||
| 3 | ★ Haidhofer Weg | 5 | 13m, 2 | |||||
/94/91/9491780a6b2f0163cf03a9ab63c76e0fcbb799f3) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 | ★ Nürnberger Weg | 6- | 13m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
Hoor auf de Zähn
FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 1999 | 9- | 11m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Klammspitzlerweg / Fritzi Ploch Gedenkweg
FA: H. Straßner sen., P. Büttner & H. Straßner jun., 1959 | 7+ | 11m | |||||
| 7 |
Janinas Traum Direktausstieg
Selbst abzusichernde Direktvariante am Ausstieg (Rissspur folgend). | 7 | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Janinas Traum
Abwechslungsreiche Kletterei an zwei grossen Schupppen. | 7 | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Wespenweg / Egloffsteiner Weg
Schwer für den Grad durch ungewohnte Bewegungen. FA: Paul Schelhorn, 1959 | 7- | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 10 |
Glatt aber lieblich
Direkt 8-, je weiter nach rechts ausgewichen wird, desto leichter. FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 1999 | 8- | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Hummelstaner Weg
Schöne Tour, durch zwei Schlingen/Keile gut zusätzlich absicherbar. | 4+ | 12m, 2 | |||||
