Ascents in Holzgauer Wand

Was ne geile route

The desperately needed #warmup (it had around -5 degrees). Luckily the hands aren't needed much for the top section. :-D

A good line, but unfortunately retrobolted and straightened into "Angst im Gnack", which makes it harder.

Beautiful line. Really hard to tell which variant I like better, but since this is the original, it deserves some love. After the brittle beginning, it's solid rock from the first bolt to the top. Up left over two bigger holes to the obvious horizontal break, traverse to the left, up over the overhang and through the fantastic, technical dihedral to the anchor. The top section felt much easier than I remember, despite the freezing temperatures.

Komische Linienführung aber gute Kletterrei.

Immer wieder gut.

Umlenker schlecht.

Short but awesome quality. A hard, powerful crux at the grade.

Great line, good rock, solid #warmup. Not too easy to the first bolt, and quite airy to the top (you can thread a small nut through a key-hole pocket above the last bolt if you're feeling insecure).

Nice, straightforward dihedral, the hardest part is the overlap in the beginning. Good rock. A little shorter than the other routes here.

The first line here. Might look a little contrived from today's perspective, with the traverse and all, but it's probably really the easiest way up. Back in the day, it was also probably completely solid. Nowadays, the big flake in the traverse is vibrating quite heavily (this also applies to "Angst im Nacken", maybe this is where the name comes from?) and you shouldn't put too much load onto it, even though it's wedged in from the top. Otherwise great, easy climbing.

Quite a hard boulder up to the second bolt (used to be easier, a hold supposedly broke). You can probably clip the first one, but falling into it would be a bit nasty, so it's best to pre-clip the second. Beautiful wall climbing on small pockets from the second bolt up to the overhang, then it suddenly gets really strenuous again. Quite a few tricky moves in the end, I was lucky that my final crossover move ended up in a monstrous jug, otherwise I would have dropped off just below the anchor. (Flashed the upper part, had to do the boulder at the bottom two or three times.)

1/3 polierte Crux mit schlechten Clips und seifigen Tritten, 2/3 gute pumpige Lochkletterei.

Attempt

2nd go