Ascents of Referendarsteig

Mega classic! One of the best 7+ in Franken

Unten nicht zittern, oben nicht zittern und in der Mitte zupacken

Starke abwechslungsreiche Tour, die nach dem überhängenden Wulst noch lange nicht vorbei ist. Überraschenden mega Pump eingefahren.

Fun and varied, starts up a finger crack/slab followed by power-endurance finish pockets.

Misread the onsight, fluffy #2ndgo

Crux is in the Belly between 4th and 5th bolt. Keeping left and using the good crimps is the way to go.

To 4th bolt in toprope, from there in lead to the top. Sat three times, first in the overhang at the 3rd bolt to figure out the beta for short people (on the right around the bolt on okay holds) and a second time, when I was at the last bolt of the toprope and again when I was in lead far over the 4th bolt, I grabbed the sling and clipped it, because I couldn't find a good clipping position. The sling doesn't look too good, its threaded two times and the second thread tightened around the hourglass (on the smallest part of course). Don't know if I really would want to fall into it, was too stiff to get the strands even again. While sitting there, I found another acceptable hold right in front of my nose. Maybe my nerves had gone wild after having this strange sling right before my eyes and knowing how far the last bolt under me was away. From the sling then easy to the top. Would like to try again another time with the right beta. Endurance needed and its more of a technical Route.

Traumtour