Neglected my previous crux beta in favour of Alex's strategy, but it turns out that was way more strenuous for me than I had anticipated. Made so many mistakes in what was following as well … but still I could enjoy every inch of it. Brilliant route in rough rock, with substantial (but safe) bolt distances. The start looks intimidating, especially due to the old sling, but turns out to be supereasy.
Not the best #warmup (it's a good route, of course!), but the only one you get. It starts off fair enough with a nicedihedral, then traverses to the left into the headwall of "Paraspruzzi", which turns out to be quite tough. Felt much harder than 7.
Lots of bolts from different eras here. The old pegs haven't been removed and it seems like someone placed Bühler bolts right next to the old pegs, while someone else prepared the line for free climbing, placing newer glue-ins in a straighter line. Regardless, it's a fantastic route. Not a lot of choss, crux at the bulge after the laybackcrack, then much easier towards the top. You can't see the anchor from the last bolt; it's up on the left, but the "logical" line leads you up the crack on the right, which is what I climbed. Had to run around some trees, pull up the rope and abseil from the anchor. The "intended" line looked quite hard, maybe that's what makes it 8? Couldn't be bothered … #lastrouteoftheday
- with
David X
