Ascents in Martinswand

#jahreserste2024

Late afternoon headlamp ascent.

Felt really hard

schwer 7b oder soft 7b+ für mich.

Gar nicht so leicht, wie ich sie in Erinnerung hatte. Ich war wohl doch mal jung.

Angeschaut. Super wandkletterei.

Nice line through the rectangular dihedral in the middle of the wall. Getting into the dihedral might be the crux of the first pitch when climbed freely. The traverse out under the roof was icy and the lichen, although dry, doesn't help. Funnily enough, this is the only place in the whole route where you need to aid on a rusty piton. Pitch 2 originally traversed left from the slimy, oddly vulvic cavity, but pretty soon it became common to directly gain the overhang above it, then follow "Gemsenweg" to the cave below the final overhangs. Pitch 3 is another traverse diagonally upwards to the right via a few bolts and pitons. It's easiest to use the anchor of "Flow".

#jahreserste2023

Kurt Albert Klassiker von 1980

Etwas nass

An exhausting adventure... we didn't make it all the way

No chance here. Painful, small holds and sketchy moves made me lose all my cool (even though I clipsticked everything) so I gave up at the 4th or 5th bolt...

Amazing fun! Really strenuous and tricky along the crack (I suppose it's even harder without the draws already in), and another tough section further up. The juggy finish is the reward

#repeat Such a good line. The sidepulls under the first roof were a bit slimy today, but they're large enough. Love the airy jug finish.

Didn't feel as desperate as I remembered it, but the first few meters from the ledge are quite intense.

19th ascent since 1956. Freed it up to the book case, then had to aid the three meters to the narrow ledge, probably hasn't been done freely, or at least not for the grade that is given in some guide books (all of the modern topo guides got the line wrong, anyway). Certainly harder than, say, 8 UIAA. Impressive, exposed traverse one storey higher than "Gemsenweg".

#repeat

↑↓ #jahreserste2022

Knew the crack in the beginning, which is brilliant by itself, already from "Movie de luxe", but the top section of it was soaked, so I slipped off. Turns out I wouldn't have onsighted the route anyway, there's a pretty tough section in the wall above, on slopy sidepulls, with sloping footholds, too (and to top it off, the bolt in the crux sits awkwardly right below a hold that I needed to use as a foothold). Actually needed a few tries to get it. The roof above is astonishingly easy (and apparently part of the original left-hand finish of "Nordwestkante"!), but I found the anchor awkward to clip.

This time in the orgiinal direction and on lead! Hats off to Markus Benning for leading the first pitch, though. It turned out to be wet for the most part, which was tough especially along the arête in the upper part. Thanks for letting me lead the traverse! Although I had climbed it already in the other direction, it took me a while to find my way along the wall, and the section that was originally done with rope tension felt pretty tough. Recommended if you're not allergic to traverses.