Mostrando los 89 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Lun 15.º Abr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6- | ★ Petersturm Nordwestkante | 9m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 3.º Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
4 | ★ Bergseite | 8m | ★ Buena | ||||
#jahreserste2024
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Vie 15.º Dic 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg - con Harald | 35m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Late afternoon headlamp ascent.
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Mar 18.º Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ ~8- | ★★ Flotter Dreier - con valldryzen | 18m | Medio | ||||
Felt really hard
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Sáb 8.º Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ ~8- | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
7+ Duro | ★★ Flotter Dreier | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
8 Fácil | ★★ This Is It! | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 27.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe | 35m | |||||
7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg | 35m, 10 | |||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
Lun 26.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8+/9- ~9- | ★★ Superpfund — 2 intentos | 22m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
schwer 7b oder soft 7b+ für mich.
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Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- Duro | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Gar nicht so leicht, wie ich sie in Erinnerung hatte. Ich war wohl doch mal jung.
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Vie 23.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ ~8- | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
8+/9- ~9- | ★★ Superpfund — 2 intentos | 22m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Angeschaut. Super wandkletterei.
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7 Duro | ★ Entspannt Klettern | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Jue 18.º Mayo 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern - con Markus, Mrs. Pinkpoint, Jessi | 20m | |||||
Jue 27.º Abr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen | 30m | |||||
Sáb 21.º En 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6+ A1 |
★★ Weg der Jugend
- con
Harald
3
6-
15m
escalada de primero por
Harald
| 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice line through the rectangular dihedral in the middle of the wall. Getting into the dihedral might be the crux of the first pitch when climbed freely. The traverse out under the roof was icy and the lichen, although dry, doesn't help. Funnily enough, this is the only place in the whole route where you need to aid on a rusty piton. Pitch 2 originally traversed left from the slimy, oddly vulvic cavity, but pretty soon it became common to directly gain the overhang above it, then follow "Gemsenweg" to the cave below the final overhangs. Pitch 3 is another traverse diagonally upwards to the right via a few bolts and pitons. It's easiest to use the anchor of "Flow".
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4 | ★ Bergseite - con Harald | 8m | ★ Buena | ||||
Vie 26.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg | 35m, 10 | |||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | |||||
Mar 23.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer - con Hannes Geissler | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 9.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8+ 8+/9- | ★★ Superpfund - con buschlicht | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg - con buschlicht | 27m, 6 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Kurt Albert Klassiker von 1980
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Dom 7.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Süßspeise | 32m | |||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | |||||
Sáb 18.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
9- | Starke Jungs aus dem Glashaus | 30m | |||||
7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern | 20m | |||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
Sáb 11.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier - con Micha | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Etwas nass
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7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg - con Micha | 27m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - con Micha | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lun 6.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6- A1 | ★★ Gonda Wyss Gedenkweg - con Ellen, Christoph Rauch | 50m | |||||
An exhausting adventure... we didn't make it all the way
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8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - con Ellen | 30m | |||||
No chance here. Painful, small holds and sketchy moves made me lose all my cool (even though I clipsticked everything) so I gave up at the 4th or 5th bolt...
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7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - con Ellen | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing fun! Really strenuous and tricky along the crack (I suppose it's even harder without the draws already in), and another tough section further up. The juggy finish is the reward
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8- | ★★★ Süßspeise - con Ellen | 32m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
#repeat Such a good line. The sidepulls under the first roof were a bit slimy today, but they're large enough. Love the airy jug finish.
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7+ | ★★ Überlebt - con Ellen | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Didn't feel as desperate as I remembered it, but the first few meters from the ledge are quite intense.
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6- A1 6- A1 | ★★ Gonda Wyss Gedenkweg - con Ellen, Daniel | 50m | ★ Buena | ||||
19th ascent since 1956. Freed it up to the book case, then had to aid the three meters to the narrow ledge, probably hasn't been done freely, or at least not for the grade that is given in some guide books (all of the modern topo guides got the line wrong, anyway). Certainly harder than, say, 8 UIAA. Impressive, exposed traverse one storey higher than "Gemsenweg".
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4 | ★ Bergseite - con Ellen | 8m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 2.º Abr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
Dom 6.º Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
4 | ★ Bergseite | 8m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 27.º Nov 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Überlebt - con Markus Benning | 35m | |||||
Knew the crack in the beginning, which is brilliant by itself, already from "Movie de luxe", but the top section of it was soaked, so I slipped off. Turns out I wouldn't have onsighted the route anyway, there's a pretty tough section in the wall above, on slopy sidepulls, with sloping footholds, too (and to top it off, the bolt in the crux sits awkwardly right below a hold that I needed to use as a foothold). Actually needed a few tries to get it. The roof above is astonishingly easy (and apparently part of the original left-hand finish of "Nordwestkante"!), but I found the anchor awkward to clip.
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7- |
★★ Gemsenweg
- con
Markus Benning
| 55m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This time in the orgiinal direction and on lead! Hats off to Markus Benning for leading the first pitch, though. It turned out to be wet for the most part, which was tough especially along the arête in the upper part. Thanks for letting me lead the traverse! Although I had climbed it already in the other direction, it took me a while to find my way along the wall, and the section that was originally done with rope tension felt pretty tough. Recommended if you're not allergic to traverses.
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Dom 12.º Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8+/9- | ★★ Superpfund | 22m, 7 | |||||
Jue 9.º Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8+/9- | ★★ Superpfund | 22m, 7 | |||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | |||||
Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6+ 7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg - con David X | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
The traverse is so much easier if you go at it quite low. Climbed it during the rain, perfectly dry. #repeat
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Mar 27.º Abr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- 7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier | 18m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Respekt wer das OS o. RP klettert
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Jue 8.º Oct 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - con Ellen | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Not claiming an onsight because only the last 5 meters differ from "Süßspeise"; I think the latter is a bit more rewarding, the moves of this route here are a bit more blunt and the jug is quite polished (almost seems like the birds whose nest is in that hold are responsible for the polish?). Nevertheless a great route all in all.
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8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - con Ellen | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
First half in top rope and cheated via the start of Tausendpfundweg, to clean the route.
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Lun 3.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern - con Martin Skalli | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - con Martin Skalli | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
3rd go
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7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern - con cooky | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - con cooky | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
One of the best! 4th go :-o
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Sáb 25.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
4 | ★ Bergseite - con Christoph Rauch | 8m | Medio | ||||
5+ | ★★ Nordwestkante - con Christoph Rauch | 28m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
8- | ★★★ Süßspeise - con Bovist | 32m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Glorious climbing in colourful rock. Varied, long, exposed and exciting finish. The crux is definitely the black slab at the beginning. Then drives off slightly right over two rooflets with good wall climbing in between to a final rooflet, traverses under it to the right and culminates in airy and juggy overhang climbing in the 7th grade.
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5+ | ★★ Nordwestkante - con Bovist | 28m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Interesting and bold start, didn't spot many placements on the way to the first bolt, which is harder than it looks. Then up to the ledge and in beautiful black rock along the arête to the top.
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4 | ★ Bergseite - con Bovist | 8m | ★ Buena | ||||
Short but good climb to the summit of this little tower. Good placement for a long sling about half-way up.
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Dom 19.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6- | ★ Petersturm Nordwestkante | 9m, 2 | |||||
4 | ★ Bergseite | 8m | |||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | |||||
Lun 13.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Überlebt | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
2nd go
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5+ | ★★ Nordwestkante | 28m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 11.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Vie 3.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 13.º Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
What a route and what a mental challenge! 35m nonstop homogenous difficulties with everything: grooves, slabs, overhangs, wide (but good) bolting..awesome!
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Sáb 11.º En 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7- |
★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg (1000-Pfund-Weg Linkup Gemsenweg)
- con
Harald
2
7-
25
escalada de primero por
Harald
| 50m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Harald wanted to lead the second pitch (i.e. the reverse "Gemsenweg" traverse), because he said leading the traverse was easier than following it. Didn't have any problems seconding, though. Tough section directly at a bolt in the middle, otherwise brilliant jugs and good footholds everywhere, just keep your eyes open to find the best line. Abseiled from the belay after the traverse, to be able to do another route before dark.
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8- | ★★ Fernfahrer - con Harald | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Varied route. The dihedral at the beginning is quite challenging, especially if the holds are a bit moist, like today. After the dihedral, everything was dry and enjoyable. Delicate wall climbing in the middle on pockets and slopy crimpers, then an athletic overhang on typical Franconian jugs (had some troubles finding the good holds which got me pumped).
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Sáb 6.º Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier - con KP | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Enormously hard for the grade. The section in the middle to gain the crack using the bad crimper is certainly demanding. There might be another solution on the right, but I didn't try it (KP said it's also hard).
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8 | ★ Winston Groovy - con KP | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Basically a flash, but I jumped off twice before the first bolt before I could clip it. Might have been good (for my toes at least) to have a crash pad. A nut might be possible before the second bolt; without it, certainly ground fall potential (and a tree in your back …). We had thought about going to Kühlochfels instead of Martinswand today and this route is as close as it gets to "Baum im Rücken". 3 bolts over 18 meters and a shaky move before each of them (the rock below the third bolt is often slimy, so make absolutely sure it's dry before you start). The climbing itself is very good: powerful boulder at the start, then a technical section to the third bolt and a slightly overhanging, athletic finish.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★ Superpfund - con KP | 22m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
Well-protected face climbing on small holds. Quite a good route, don't know why it's not climbed so often. Hard section to the third bolt and to get away from the fourth bolt. The upper part is easier, but still demanding.
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7 | ★★ Schwarzer Riss - con KP | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great #warmup. Quite dry today, which isn't often the case. I didn't do the easy traverse and the second pitch, and instead went right into "Flow".
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8 | ★★ Flow - con KP | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Good endurance climbing on positive holds, with one really good rest in the middle. One or two tricky sections if you don't know where the holds are.
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7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - con KP | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Phenomenal route at the edge of the crag. Very untypical crack in the first half, which you can either jam, which is what I did, or layback. From the pedestal, you gain a sort of diagonal double crack feature with really smooth holds, which turned out to be ridiculously hard for me. All of this is crowned by a steep, juggy finish. An absolute must-do!
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Sáb 15.º Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg - con Bovist | 27m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Hard Kurt Albert † classic with lots of tricky and hard sections. Very homogenous, with the hardest part towards the third bolt and the easiest part below the bulge.
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Mar 26.º Feb 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6- | ★ Petersturm Nordwestkante (Hauptturm Nordwestkante) - con Gabriele Marg | 9m, 2 | |||||
Vie 24.º Ag 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Mié 22.º Ag 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
9- | Longlife – Die Fast | 30m, 8 | Medio | ||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen | 30m | |||||
8- | ★★ Fernfahrer | 30m | |||||
8+ 8 | ★★ Flow | 35m | |||||
Sáb 30.º Jun 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7- | ★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg - con Teresa | 35m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fantastic journey, the route description says it all. Pretty demanding for the second, too, due to the traverses. Should be climbed more often, the lower part is a bit grimy in some places. The rock structure in the upper part is amazing.
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Sáb 17.º Mar 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
6- | ★ Petersturm Nordwestkante (Hauptturm Nordwestkante) - con Torsten Schierz | 9m, 2 | |||||
Jue 22.º Jun 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier | 18m | ★ Buena | ||||
1980 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | Pr.Asc. ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
FFA.
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Jue 30.º Mayo 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7- 7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern | 20m |
Mostrando los 89 ascensiones.