Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Sáb 11.º Mayo 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con Heike | 18m | |||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Heike | 18m, 1 | |||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss - con Heike | 18m | |||||
7 | Odin - con Heike | 18m, 2 | |||||
Hooking the edges, especially on the left really helps
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6 | Graue Verschneidung - con Heike | 1 | |||||
A real dream Route. I'd count it as trad in the corner and under this circumstance requires careful technical movement with steady nerves, as otherwise you will be punished
That is the experience I'm looking for! |
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6- | Schlawiner - con Heike | 20m, 4 | |||||
Sáb 30.º Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Katha | 18m, 1 | |||||
Sáb 30.º Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | Pollux | 12m | |||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Katha | 16m, 1 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause - con Katha | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause - con Tom Bösl | 14m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Tom Bösl | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Tom Bösl | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ Duro | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand | 20m, 4 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Superfly — 2 intentos | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 11.º Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Einstieg - con julia, papaalex, tina | 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild - con julia, papaalex, tina | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz - con julia, papaalex, tina | 15m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante | 18m, 1 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Halve Hahn | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand | 20m, 4 | |||||
Lun 19.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
7 | Odin - con Uwe | 18m, 2 | |||||
6 | Graue Verschneidung - con Uwe | 1 | |||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler - con Uwe | 18m, 2 | |||||
7- | Flocky - con Uwe | 12m, 2 | |||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss - con Uwe | 12m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★ Frustie - con Uwe | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sáb 17.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 ~6+ | ★ Rechte Westwand — 5 intentos - con Patrick H. | 20m, 4 | |||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Patrick H. | 20m, 4 | |||||
3+ | Simpelkamin - con Patrick H. | 25m, 1 | |||||
Mié 3.º Mayo 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry - con Marek | 15m, 1 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Sehr nass...
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4 | Trouble with Terry - con Hans Fahs | 15m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry - con Charis | 15m, 1 | |||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6 | ★ Kurzer Riss - con Charis | 18m, 3 | |||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
5- | Langer Riss - con Charis | 25m, 2 | |||||
5- | Langer Riss - con Jürgen Wolf | 25m, 2 | |||||
Dom 24.º Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
7 | Odin - con dorithricinchen | 18m, 2 | |||||
Dom 24.º Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Grattlerkante - con dorithricinchen | 14m, 3 | |||||
6 | ★★ Elfenweg - con dorithricinchen | 14m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz - con dorithricinchen | 15m, 2 | |||||
Vie 17.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
5- | Langer Riss | 25m, 2 | |||||
Vie 10.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Philosophenweg - con Harald | 28m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.
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6 | ★ Bayernwand - con Harald | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.
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5+ | ★ Schwartenriss - con Harald | 23m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.
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Sáb 2.º Abr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Superfly | 18m, 4 | |||||
3+ | Simpelkamin | 25m, 1 | |||||
5- | Langer Riss | 25m, 2 | |||||
8 | ★★ Nonplusultra | 18m, 4 | |||||
Mar 13.º Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
8 | ★★ Nonplusultra | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Vie 18.º Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Dorit | 18m, 1 | |||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss - con Dorit | 18m | |||||
7 | Odin - con Dorit | 18m, 2 | |||||
6 | Graue Verschneidung - con Dorit | 1 | |||||
6- | Schlawiner - con Dorit | 20m, 4 | |||||
4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con Dorit | 25m, 2 | |||||
6- | Jungfernriss - con Dorit | 18m, 1 | |||||
Jue 10.º Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Hallodri | 14m, 3 | |||||
6 | ★ Wichtelriss | 14m, 2 | |||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante | 16m, 1 | |||||
4 | Trouble with Terry | 15m, 1 | |||||
4 | Trouble with Terry | 15m, 1 | |||||
Sáb 29.º Mayo 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry - con Aram | 15m, 1 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz - con Aram | 15m, 2 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Aram | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Aram | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Jue 20.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante | 18m, 1 | |||||
6- | Schlawiner | 20m, 4 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Halve Hahn - con Achim | 18m, 6 | |||||
Groundergefahr vor dem zweiten Bohrhaken und tough...
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5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Achim | 18m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Kann sehr gut mit Schlingen abgesichert werden.
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Jue 20.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
8 | ★★ Nonplusultra - con Achim | 18m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Leider die Schlüsselstelle über dem letzten Haken nicht entschlüsseln können. Bei einer rutschigen schrägen Leiste ca. 2m über dem Haken bin ich mit links reingekommen, von da aber keine gute Fussposition mehr gefunden zum weiterkommen.
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Mié 19.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Grattlerkante | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
6 | ★ Hallodri | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
7+ | ★★ Superfly | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
7+ | ★ Kalte Zeiten | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Steinbeißer - con Daniel | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice, chalk-free, vertical climbing on small pockets. The bolts aren't as spaced as it first seems, there's one hidden in the break. Runout after the third bolt, but it's much easier there. No anchor, but make sure to climb the last few meters, it's worth it!
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6+ | ★★★ Hansdampf - con Bovist | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Brilliant dihedral climbing. Slightly overhanging with lots of bridging and stemming. A blue cam shortens the distance to the last bolt before the finish. No anchor (but a good belay tree).
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Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6 | ★★ Bahnhofsweg rechter Ausstieg - con Daniel | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good crack climbing in the lower half (I mostly used sidepulls and bridging) and an interesting slab at the top. Used a sling and a red dragon cam after the second bolt.
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4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con Daniel | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Beautiful and easy climbing, very enjoyable. The protection can be enhanced vastly, lots of good placements.
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5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con Daniel | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Another fantastic line that I had passed by before without noticing. A long, diagonal crack, perfect for some trad training. Perfect rock, nice hold shapes, good jams.
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5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con Bovist | 18m | ★ Buena | ||||
4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con Bovist | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
With pre set protection from Christoph Rauch.
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Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Bovist | 16m, 1 | Medio | ||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Steinbeißer - con Christoph Rauch | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
With one rest around the third bolt, because the wrong holds I had grabbed, lead to a dead end, but found a good hold right next to them then. Nice last two meters, over the bulge on two good holds, that you first have to find while still standing under the bulge.
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Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Bovist | 16m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
#repeat to place some protection for the others.
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6 | ★ Wichtelriss - con Daniel | 14m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Interesting crack line. The difficulties are slightly above the bolts. Take a sling for the upper part!
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6 | ★ Hallodri - con Daniel | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good wall climbing with spaced bolting.
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7+ | ★★ Grattlerkante - con Daniel | 14m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great technical arête on small holds with lots of good moves. The bolts are in the right places. Would be a classic if it was longer!
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6 | ★★ Elfenweg - con Daniel | 14m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Slightly uncomfortable start with roundish footholds in the dihedral, then good pockets (and a thin rock tunnel) in the middle section and a slightly powerful finish to the ledge.
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Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con monolith | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6 | ★★ Bahnhofsweg rechter Ausstieg - con monolith | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con monolith | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con monolith | 16m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Steinbeißer - con Christoph Rauch | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
To the first bolt is the hardest part, having the draw in helped a lot here.
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