Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 11.º Mayo 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con Heike | 18m | |||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss - con Heike | 18m | |||||
6- | Schlawiner - con Heike | 20m, 4 | |||||
Sáb 30.º Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Katha | 18m, 1 | |||||
Sáb 30.º Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | Pollux | 12m | |||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Katha | 16m, 1 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause - con Katha | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild - con Katha | 20m, 4 | |||||
Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ Duro | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand | 20m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 11.º Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7- | ★★ Halb so wild - con julia, papaalex, tina | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz - con julia, papaalex, tina | 15m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante | 18m, 1 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Halve Hahn | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand | 20m, 4 | |||||
Lun 19.º Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
7 | Odin - con Uwe | 18m, 2 | |||||
6 | Graue Verschneidung - con Uwe | 1 | |||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler - con Uwe | 18m, 2 | |||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss - con Uwe | 12m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★ Frustie - con Uwe | 12m, 2 | |||||
Mié 3.º Mayo 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry - con Marek | 15m, 1 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Sehr nass...
|
|||||||
Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
5- | Langer Riss - con Charis | 25m, 2 | |||||
Vie 10.º Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Philosophenweg - con Harald | 28m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.
|
|||||||
6 | ★ Bayernwand - con Harald | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.
|
|||||||
5+ | ★ Schwartenriss - con Harald | 23m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.
|
|||||||
Vie 18.º Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6- | Jungfernriss - con Dorit | 18m, 1 | |||||
Jue 10.º Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante | 16m, 1 | |||||
4 | Trouble with Terry | 15m, 1 | |||||
4 | Trouble with Terry | 15m, 1 | |||||
Sáb 29.º Mayo 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry - con Aram | 15m, 1 | |||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con Aram | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Jue 20.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Achim | 18m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Kann sehr gut mit Schlingen abgesichert werden.
|
|||||||
Mié 19.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Grattlerkante | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
6 | ★ Hallodri | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
7+ | ★★ Superfly | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Steinbeißer - con Daniel | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice, chalk-free, vertical climbing on small pockets. The bolts aren't as spaced as it first seems, there's one hidden in the break. Runout after the third bolt, but it's much easier there. No anchor, but make sure to climb the last few meters, it's worth it!
|
|||||||
6+ | ★★★ Hansdampf - con Bovist | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Brilliant dihedral climbing. Slightly overhanging with lots of bridging and stemming. A blue cam shortens the distance to the last bolt before the finish. No anchor (but a good belay tree).
|
|||||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6 | ★★ Bahnhofsweg rechter Ausstieg - con Daniel | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good crack climbing in the lower half (I mostly used sidepulls and bridging) and an interesting slab at the top. Used a sling and a red dragon cam after the second bolt.
|
|||||||
4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con Daniel | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Beautiful and easy climbing, very enjoyable. The protection can be enhanced vastly, lots of good placements.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - con Daniel | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Another fantastic line that I had passed by before without noticing. A long, diagonal crack, perfect for some trad training. Perfect rock, nice hold shapes, good jams.
|
|||||||
4 | ★★ Nebelkante - con Bovist | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
With pre set protection from Christoph Rauch.
|
|||||||
Dom 16.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Wichtelriss - con Daniel | 14m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Interesting crack line. The difficulties are slightly above the bolts. Take a sling for the upper part!
|
|||||||
6 | ★ Hallodri - con Daniel | 14m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good wall climbing with spaced bolting.
|
|||||||
7+ | ★★ Grattlerkante - con Daniel | 14m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great technical arête on small holds with lots of good moves. The bolts are in the right places. Would be a classic if it was longer!
|
|||||||
6 | ★★ Elfenweg - con Daniel | 14m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Slightly uncomfortable start with roundish footholds in the dihedral, then good pockets (and a thin rock tunnel) in the middle section and a slightly powerful finish to the ledge.
|
|||||||
Mar 21.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
8 8- | ★★★ Halve Hahn - con Alex | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
I passed by this route a few times already, not noticing it at all, even though I had heard about it. Finally got around to trying it and I was not disappointed. Lots of small pockets to choose from, but only few of them are positive. Good rest after the second bolt, but then follows an uncompromising, sustained crux from the third to the fourth bolt. Got pumped up really hard and desperately tried to reach for the seemingly big pocket below the fourth bolt, but my reach was not enough. As a last resort, I put my right foot a bit higher and pulled dynamically into the pocket … just to realise that it was a damn sloper. Just like a few weeks ago with "Jonathan" at Bandstein, I was hanging there, bolt before my eyes; but this time, I needed to climb on because I felt my powers dwindling. Thankfully, only two horrifying moves later, I reached a set of pockets which was barely good enough to clip the bolt, just below my hips, and walk out onto the easy finishing slab, panting. Might be easier when you know all the holds, but 8- is probably still an understatement.
|
|||||||
Mar 21.º Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
7+ | ★ Frostfinger - con Alex | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Hardly ever climbed, probably due to the exclamation mark in the guide book, so I had to dust off the crimps while climbing. Short, but difficult passage over three bolts to the traverse of "Philosophenweg", continuing on this route to the top. This second part is actually great. Easy traverse and then nice, unusual wall climbing without any pockets.
|
|||||||
7- | ★★ Sepplriss - con Alex | 18m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great crack line. Wonderful combination of jams, bridging and a bit of wall climbing. Crux is the finish. Use the bolt with the carabiners to lower, there's nothing at the top.
|
|||||||
7- | ★★ Schlendrian - con Alex | 18m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Slightly nonsensical start with a technical crux around the arête (you can start around the corner and leave this harder bit out, but then it's probably only around 6+). The rest is beautiful wall climbing in slightly slabby terrain along small pockets. The second bolt after swinging around the arête is quite high, careful there. There's an anchor quite far on the right.
|
|||||||
Sáb 27.º Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
4 | Trouble with Terry | 15m, 1 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
4+ | Pollux | 12m | Basura | ||||
Flechtig, clean, sinnlos. Kein Umlenker
|
|||||||
Sáb 13.º Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
4 | Ischiasverschneidung | 1 | Medio | ||||
5 | Kantenriss | Medio | |||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss | 12m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Polished but fun crack. Take some trad pro to shorten the upper runout.
|
|||||||
Sáb 13.º Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz | 15m, 2 | |||||
Nice route. The crux at second bolt took me a moment to read and seemed hard for the grade.
|
|||||||
Sáb 30.º Mayo 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand | 20m, 4 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Unter 2. Haken speckig
|
|||||||
Mié 10.º Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6- | Schlawiner - con Gabriele Marg | 20m, 4 | |||||
Mié 10.º Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause (Kaffepause) | 14m, 4 | |||||
Lun 22.º Abr 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
7 | ★ Nussknacker - con David X | 23m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Nice line, funny moves around the arête and over the bulge with a nice foot jam. Easy runout to the anchor.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★ Linke Westwand - con David X | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Long route with big holds and enjoyable easy moves. Runout after the ring, certainly protectable with slings and nuts.
|
|||||||
6+ | ★★ Weg durch den Pelz - con David X | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good line along the narrow face. Boulder problem at the second bolt, easy runout to the anchor (take a sling for a chicken head).
|
|||||||
Lun 15.º Oct 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause | 14m, 4 | |||||
Lun 15.º Oct 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler | 18m, 2 | |||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss | 12m, 2 | Basura | ||||
warum gleich so viele haken?
|
|||||||
Dom 5.º Ag 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
5- | Langer Riss - con Jan Ronniger | 25m, 2 | |||||
Dom 27.º Mayo 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss | 18m | |||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante | 18m, 1 | |||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss | 12m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler | 18m, 2 | |||||
6- | Jungfernriss | 18m, 1 | |||||
Sáb 21.º Abr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause - con Bovist | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Wall climbing on small pockets with really nice moves. Boulder to the (slightly high) first bolt.
|
|||||||
Sáb 21.º Abr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
6+ | ★ Weg der Knoblauchbrüder - con Jenny | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
A few loose blocks in the lower part, high first bolt, but the upper part makes up for it.
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Knieschnackler - con Jenny | 18m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Another good crack; good placements for nuts and a sling.
|
|||||||
7 | ★ Hupfauf - con Jenny | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
The two (!) bolts are really far from each other, but in the right places. Reachy moves, I liked it.
|
|||||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss - con Jenny | 18m | ★ Buena | ||||
Nice to practise placing nuts and slings, abundant possibilities. And great rock quality.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Jenny | 18m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really good. The difficulties are over a few meters above the single bolt, then it's just a leisurely stroll up to the anchor.
|
|||||||
6 | ★ Kurzer Riss - con Jenny | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Felt hard in the onsight and quite exhausting, but not a bad climb.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - con Nadja | 18m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
6 | ★ Kurzer Riss - con Nadja | 18m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
First bolt a bit high.
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Weg der Knoblauchbrüder - con Nadja | 25m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
A bit scary to the first bolt.
|
|||||||
5 | Rheumatikerriss - con Nadja | 12m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Vie 26.º Mayo 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Hallodri - con Thomas Krodel | 14m, 3 | |||||
6 | ★ Wichtelriss - con Thomas Krodel | 14m, 2 | |||||
Jue 11.º Ag 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Bovist | 20m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Kaffeepause - con Bovist | 14m, 4 | |||||
Very tricky for the grade. Started with the first bolt clipped from Hobbitkante.
|
|||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Bovist | 16m, 1 | |||||
6 | ★ Rechte Westwand - con Bovist | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
Polished start, but after that just nice wall climbing on good holds.
|
|||||||
4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - con Bovist | 16m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Funny overhanging start with tree in the back to help you up to the jugs followed by nice and easy wall climbing on perfect holds.
|
|||||||
Jue 8.º Oct 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Diagonalriss | 18m | |||||
5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante | 18m, 1 | |||||
4+ | ★ Gerader Riss | 18m | |||||
6- | Schlawiner | 20m, 4 |