Ascents in Pottenstein

Awkward start getting over the first bolt. Got quite exhausted and nervous in the chimney. Needed to rest after that, although the rest was totally doable (although quite dirty).

Beautiful crack line with perfect rock quality. Take some medium to large cams and a few nuts or just run it out.

Interesting start getting over the block, then runout (nut) through slightly chossy, but nicely cleaned (thanks for the work!) terrain to the actual crack. From the ground I thought I would climb deep in the crack, but actually it's more of a dihedral with holds far out on the sides, very funny and elegant. Another cruxy move gets you out on the finishing slab.

Even with plentiful protection placed by Christoph Rauch, and the first bolt pre-clipped, this was a real struggle. I knew the tough start already, and the wide crack at the top is by no means any easier. Schwertner puts this at 7+, which feels more like it...

Style upgrade. Not too easy to protect if you don't have bigger cams at hand for the upper part, but it works.

Direct line from the starting dihedral of Grünbauer to the finishing crack after the original traverse, via a thin crack line. There's a Bühler bolt in the cave above the first bolt of Grünbauer, from there it's just rusty pitons. Unfortunately, the most important peg has been completely obliterated by rust, meaning that it's gone. Took me some 10 minutes to prepare a nest of gear in that place, which is super important but nontrivial to say the least. The next peg also doesn't look too good, which makes it all the more vital to place good gear. The ringed piton afterwards is a little better, and the terrain also eases off there a little. Good cam position (+ piton) in the slightly overhanging layback section, then easy via another piton to the top.

Long and good #warmup. Some fragile structures, but overall good rock quality, nice climbing.

The start is unusual. Small people can't even reach the first hold (in the roof) from the small pedestal, so a few stones have been piled up in addition and I used them a bit as well. After that bouldery start and a few meters of easy scrambling, the actual route is an interesting dihedral where good bridging skills are essential. Still stinks quite a bit from the guano of a recent temporary resident, but you don't need to touch it. I climbed a bit over the (probably) last bolt and coulnd't make out an anchor or another bolt, so I climbed back and lowered from just above the aerie.

7+/8-

not a real onsight, cause I knew the lower part already from the route to the right. the traverse was again challenging for me, also the stepout to the balcony. not the best route here, but still worth a try...

Nach Schwertner 7+ und wirklich nicht schwerer. Nach dem Riss rechts haltend in der Wand nahe der original Linie. Tolle Linie

Easier than 8, but very beautiful route 😍

Interesting crux move, easy up to that.