Ascents in Pottenstein

Endlich mol wieda an gscheidn flow ghabt und fast alles bei der oberarmpumpe perfekt dawuschn 5 sterne!

8+/9-

Dankee an den beschtn sicherer fürs exen hochclipstickn nette bouldertour!

45deg overhanging trench. Go the kneebars!

Bouldery start, then two short sections followed by no-hand rests. From there it's endurance with one hard passage. Very nice! Great rock quality and nice moves. Thanks for the belay Tobias Auth, nice to meet you Katrin Bauer!

Big 3D climbing fight through this overhanging corner with its supercool big holes! Skipping a bolt makes the runout even more fun;)

Amazing pockets in the steep part, crux for me was the little traverse below the bulge and getting over it into vertical terrain (seems like it‘s a tad easier a bit further to the right, but I missed that opportunity). The name suggests a bitter end, but with the good rest two meters below the anchor (probably not used by the first ascensionist) it‘s not too bad.

a lot of kneebars

Nice, fluid movements over the pillar with a cool separate start to the ledge through along the crack. More on the 8 side.

7b for the onsight for sure. Hard and fingery start to a kneebar rest. Followed by big moves to spike/jug, and a bouldery move to the big hole. Good holds lead to a last tricky move after which you catch the big hold at the top of the wall. Misread the sequence after the spike and did it the (very) hard way.

Cold start, but not as tough as anticipated, felt rather like 8. The actual route from the ledge is really good. The bolt distances are spicy but reasonable (but probably a bit more awkward for small people as usual for routes by Stefan Löw), the climbing is top notch face climbing on pockets, crimps and edges. Three no-hand rests (two of them kneebars in the little caves)! #warmup

Shares the easy top section with "Schlaffsack"; hard overhanging start on pockets, traversing left and up to a big sidepull. Some people shouted up confusing beta without being asked, which actually made it harder for me because they just announced holds that weren't there …

Similar to "Non Stop" but felt easier. Crux section after the third bolt at a faint crack, easier afterwards. Far to the last bolt, but it's not so hard, just keep it together. The little overhang in the end was a nice addition.

Maybe I shouldn't have warmed up on this, but "Condor" was occupied and I didn't want to start with one of the strange grade 7 routes here (which turned out to be less strange than I imagined), so I gave it a shot. I was not disappointed, the name really fits. Hard to onsight the crux passage where I backed off at least three times before committing to some sketchy moves. But after that, the route never seems to end, there are so many places where you can still blow it.

Incredibly homogenous, but easy (around 6-) lower part to a no-hands rest, then a short, steep boulder on top. Only two or three hard moves before the jugs begin, but it pumps you up a bit nevertheless. Easy for the grade.

Cool layback start along the crack, then drives off left into the overhang on good holds. One slightly harder move gets you to a rest position before the cruxy bulge.

I used the second bolt of "König der Lüfte" and went straight up from there, which is the logical line. This way, the crux is right at the start, with easier but pumpy climbing to the anchor. The last move/clipping the anchor is actually the hardest bit of the top part, so if you're too pumped, get ready for a drop.

Great "endurance" route with a distinct crux over the bulge in the middle. I overlooked one of the "Löw loops" right after the first bolt and clipped a rusty peg instead … felt weird, especially given that the flake in the beginning is the most brittle hold in the route. Other than that great moves, quite exposed with a nice juggy finish.

Amazingly good rock structure:)

Surprisingly good, even though it's pretty damn close to the neighbouring routes. Up top, you're definitely climbing the crux of "Sauerpower", though. The middle part is certainly nice with fantastic pockets.

Nach dem plattigen Einstieg folgen ca 15m überhängende kletterei mit einer guten Pauseposition in der Mitte. Weite Abstände im Ausstieg, aber immer henkeliger. (Exen hingen schon drin.)