Ascents in Aufseßtal

Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …

Boulder problem to the third bolt, first on sharp holds, then sidepull slapping. The upper part is much easier, especially because you can go a bit to the right of the "intended" line. I would say it's 8+ in total.

One of the weirdest ascents I ever experienced. I already thought I wouldn't make it to the top when I clipped the first bolt. The same thing happened at the second bolt. And at the third. When I had reached the fourth, I started to believe I could actually make it. I rested on the mediocre pocket below the bolt for a while … and then accidentally pushed down my glasses with my shoulder so they fell to the ground. Only one bolt between me and the anchor, I had to climb the rest practically blind. Whenever I could, I moved my face as close as possible to the wall to inspect the footholds. For handholds, I had to trust in the chalk I could make out. After a while of resting at the fifth bolt, I finally committed to the last moves to the jugs. Not sure if I can claim an on"sight" given those circumstances.

Demanding wall climbing on small pockets and crimps, relatively homogenous, with crux towards the end. 8 should be sufficient, but definitely a hard onsight, it's hard to find the right holds.

Small, slightly sharp holds and subtle footwork at the start, powerful finish.

Brüchig

Not exactly sure which of the two left-most routes I liked better. Both are terriffic. Long, unique, interesting lines in generally good rock once you've passed the first meters. I might be biased towards this one because of the beautiful crack dihedral which can be climbed (most easily) full-on crack-style with hand, fist and foot jams. Then with amazing pockets around the corner and a little tricky up to the book case. Once again, passing the latter is the crux. You can climb all the way up to the anchor of "Jubiläumsweg".

A brilliant line that looks so much harder from below than it is. The steepest part is ridiculously juggy, with a short crux to get into the big hueco after the book case. The finish has been straightened at some point (there's a bolt leading to the left towards "Hexenweg", but you can choose to go further straight up), making use of the good rock quality up there. Too many bolts in that finish for my taste, but oh well. Little runout in easy terrain to the anchor. Oh, and the choss in the beginning isn't too bad. Pulling carefully is still advised, especially with the big blocks and flakes.

Pumpy undercling traverse into layback crack. Quite unique. Definitely worthwhile, and well-protected.

The best line here, actually (of course I, as a lover of classic routes, have to say that). Finds the easiest way through the wall and doesn't force a straight line.

Probably this one is actually the "variant", judging from descriptions in the old guide books. Felt a tad harder than the right crack, too.

Nice wall climbing along cracks in good rock. Crux is a little layback move in the upper part (protected by a rusty peg and a shabby bolt ), then easy to the summit.

Somewhat awkward to climb, yet worthwhile. Some of the bolts are questionable, but the protection is good overall.

Gnarly start on small holds, nice upper half in rough rock. Left out the new bolt in the upper part and put a friend in the break instead.

Inhomogeneous, hard, weird, and grassy in a bad way. The finish is actually the original finish of "Bergseite".

Felt easy for the grade, two face climbing sections separated by a big ledge.

Worst #warmup I've done in a while. Uninspiring climb.

Surprisingly good climbing at this little crag. Powerful bulge in the lower part, directly up the little needle after the ledge. Cool hold structures and great moves.

Nice, run-out route in great rock with small holds between the two bolts. A nut or maybe even better a knotted sling before the first bolt is sensible, also a nut or friend after the second. Careful on the last meter towards the second bolt, if you fall you'll need an attentive belayer.