Ascents in Krögelstein

The huge jugs make this one climbable even despite wet footholds in the beginning. Steep, but not harder than 8-.

deutlich leichter 7+/8-

Starts off relatively nicely, but after the third bolt, it's quite forced. A lot of moss has been brushed away above the bulge to bring to light a few bad slopers. Didn't really like it.

Chossy start with a rotated hanger (it's such a shame that almost the whole wall is bolted with expansion bolts instead of glue-ins), then a few powerful moves over the bulge and it's basically over.

schlechte Absicherung deswegen passt 8-

Nice black slab in the beginning, then easy up to the overhang. Crux is after the second bolt in the overhang, where I bumped up slightly to the left. Felt somewhat close to "Alter Knabe" there if you don't dyno directly to the jug.

hat sich mehr wie 6b angefühlt. Schwierig zu werten im Onsight.

Originally graded as 7, but upgraded by the guy who bolted it. ;-) Felt hard after a long day.

The obvious line in the middle of the west face. Nice and juggy.

Steeper than its left neighbour, but also lots of jugs.

Powerful moves on mostly good jugs

One Move Wonder

Gets pumpy at the top. The anchor can be clipped early, but there are still a few worthwhile moves left to get to the finishing jugs.

Better than it looks, also less chossy than it looks. Funky jug haul up to the last overhang. You can clip the anchor from the undercling before the route is actually over … the hardest moves are to reach the jugs above the anchor, though! Almost fell off there because I managed to get myself in an awkward position, had to dyno to the jug.

First bolt is useless and you can clip the second bolt when you would clip the sling. A handful of moves through the steep overhang followed by a dusty traverse.

Technical start (went surprisingly well), then juggy over for bulge

#jan-belay

#jan-belay

Interesting traverse. The hardest move of the route is protected by a thin, rusty bolt, and the one before that is another old ring 5 meters on the left … some of the pockets are filled with dirt, too. Other than that, good climbing.

Fantastic jugfest with a slabby middle part. Almost sandstone-like features and shapes. I should come back and climb the other routes here as well.