Ascents in Trautner Gedenkwand

8+/9-

Bouldery start, then two short sections followed by no-hand rests. From there it's endurance with one hard passage. Very nice! Great rock quality and nice moves. Thanks for the belay Tobias Auth, nice to meet you Katrin Bauer!

Amazing pockets in the steep part, crux for me was the little traverse below the bulge and getting over it into vertical terrain (seems like it‘s a tad easier a bit further to the right, but I missed that opportunity). The name suggests a bitter end, but with the good rest two meters below the anchor (probably not used by the first ascensionist) it‘s not too bad.

Cold start, but not as tough as anticipated, felt rather like 8. The actual route from the ledge is really good. The bolt distances are spicy but reasonable (but probably a bit more awkward for small people as usual for routes by Stefan Löw), the climbing is top notch face climbing on pockets, crimps and edges. Three no-hand rests (two of them kneebars in the little caves)! #warmup

Similar to "Non Stop" but felt easier. Crux section after the third bolt at a faint crack, easier afterwards. Far to the last bolt, but it's not so hard, just keep it together. The little overhang in the end was a nice addition.

Maybe I shouldn't have warmed up on this, but "Condor" was occupied and I didn't want to start with one of the strange grade 7 routes here (which turned out to be less strange than I imagined), so I gave it a shot. I was not disappointed, the name really fits. Hard to onsight the crux passage where I backed off at least three times before committing to some sketchy moves. But after that, the route never seems to end, there are so many places where you can still blow it.

I used the second bolt of "König der Lüfte" and went straight up from there, which is the logical line. This way, the crux is right at the start, with easier but pumpy climbing to the anchor. The last move/clipping the anchor is actually the hardest bit of the top part, so if you're too pumped, get ready for a drop.

The start is unusual. Small people can't even reach the first hold (in the roof) from the small pedestal, so a few stones have been piled up in addition and I used them a bit as well. After that bouldery start and a few meters of easy scrambling, the actual route is an interesting dihedral where good bridging skills are essential. Still stinks quite a bit from the guano of a recent temporary resident, but you don't need to touch it. I climbed a bit over the (probably) last bolt and coulnd't make out an anchor or another bolt, so I climbed back and lowered from just above the aerie.

7+/8-

Spannender einstieg mit urgeiler lochkletterei danach:)

Schee vui tritte und griffe fürd linke hand:)

Premium+; wahnsinns schene lochausdauerkletterei! Perfekt um de eine hand zum schonen

2nd go, aber Einstiegscrux kannte ich schon von der LInksvariante. Oben raus unübersichtlich, aber mit Schleifen nicht mehr schwerer als 7. Direkt deutlich schöner als die Linksvariante. Sehr gnädig für den Grad!

3rd go, schwache linie aber super kletterei

3rd go. Auch nicht schwerer als Non Stop, dazu auch mehr Haken...

Absolutely amazing route - 2 boulders divided by 2 no-hands rest followed up by wonderful "ausdauerte Lochkleterrei"

Wunderschöne Kletterei im Überhang

4th go. Crux am Dach am Anfang, danach dran bleiben. Vorsicht vor den großen Blöcken im Mittelteil!

#2go Extrem weite Hakenabstände ⚠

2nd go

2nd go, linie ist ein bischen gesucht

3rd go. Eine der allerbesten Touren!

#2go

Technically a #yoyo, but counting this as a redpoint since you can rest on the ledge for ages and I didn’t want to repeat the painful start. Just like for the routes on the left, it’s better to consider it to actually start on the ledge. Anyway, the longest route of the crag with a tricky passage over the first bolt (after the ledge) on small holds, then good wall climbing, albeit with some sandy pockets. Varied due to the little layback dihedral followed by a little slab up top.

Four tries . Feels hard for 8. The grade is still ok though. Very hard to onsite I think because the beta is not easy to figure out.

Missed the jug and took the sloper instead after the crux in the flash try.