Ascents in Trautner Gedenkwand

Wunderschöne Kletterei im Überhang

Guide book says 10- after a hold broke. Seemed impossible after the fourth draw with bad holds and bad feet in an extremely overhanging prow.

Missed the jug and took the sloper instead after the crux in the flash try.

Best route in the 8th grade at this wall. The upper section isn't that hard, but you arrive there quite pumped.

Technical Crux section which is hard to do right the first try. Many options. We started from the hood holds on the right, left hand to the Gaston, crossover to a bad crimp with the right hand and traverse to the left. Spaced bolts.

Pumpy Crux section with some baggy finger jams. Afterwards easy but very runout. Great route.

Four tries . Feels hard for 8. The grade is still ok though. Very hard to onsite I think because the beta is not easy to figure out.

Absolutely amazing route - 2 boulders divided by 2 no-hands rest followed up by wonderful "ausdauerte Lochkleterrei"

Cold start, but not as tough as anticipated, felt rather like 8. The actual route from the ledge is really good. The bolt distances are spicy but reasonable (but probably a bit more awkward for small people as usual for routes by Stefan Löw), the climbing is top notch face climbing on pockets, crimps and edges. Three no-hand rests (two of them kneebars in the little caves)! #warmup

Painful and awkward boulder start to the ledge. The sling should best be replaced soon, otherwise clipping the hideous first bolt after the no-hands rest could end on the ground. I placed a cam before to be safe. Fell off trying to get past that first bolt.

Technically a #yoyo, but counting this as a redpoint since you can rest on the ledge for ages and I didn’t want to repeat the painful start. Just like for the routes on the left, it’s better to consider it to actually start on the ledge. Anyway, the longest route of the crag with a tricky passage over the first bolt (after the ledge) on small holds, then good wall climbing, albeit with some sandy pockets. Varied due to the little layback dihedral followed by a little slab up top.

Amazing pockets in the steep part, crux for me was the little traverse below the bulge and getting over it into vertical terrain (seems like it‘s a tad easier a bit further to the right, but I missed that opportunity). The name suggests a bitter end, but with the good rest two meters below the anchor (probably not used by the first ascensionist) it‘s not too bad.

3rd go

2nd go

Great fun! I was glad not to fall off the spicy entry boulder. Closer to the onsight than on "Non Stop" but still some more pocket juice needed. Good one to try again!

Tried to figure out a solution for the sidepull crux but didn't make it through that part. A lot of nice falls belayed by Katrin though.

I used the second bolt of "König der Lüfte" and went straight up from there, which is the logical line. This way, the crux is right at the start, with easier but pumpy climbing to the anchor. The last move/clipping the anchor is actually the hardest bit of the top part, so if you're too pumped, get ready for a drop.

Bouldery start, then two short sections followed by no-hand rests. From there it's endurance with one hard passage. Very nice! Great rock quality and nice moves. Thanks for the belay Tobias Auth, nice to meet you Katrin Bauer!

Premium+; wahnsinns schene lochausdauerkletterei! Perfekt um de eine hand zum schonen

Richtig PREMIUM!

Schee vui tritte und griffe fürd linke hand:)

Spannender einstieg mit urgeiler lochkletterei danach:)

#2go Extrem weite Hakenabstände ⚠

#2go