A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Veilbronn
145 in Crag
- 1.1. Adlersteiner Nadel 5 in Crag
- 1.2. Kletterrosenwand 4 in Crag
- 1.3. Delago Gedenkwand 5 in Crag
- 1.4. Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand 17 in Crag
- 1.5. Totensteinwände 25 in Crag
- 1.6. Totenstein 11 in Crag
- 1.7. Nervenheilanstalt 19 in Crag
- 1.8. Leidingshofer Wand 8 in Crag
- 1.9. Jugendturm 10 in Crag
- 1.10. Edelweißblock 9 in Crag
- 1.11. Veilbronner Wand 12 in Crag
- 1.12. Fürther Wand 14 in Crag
- 1.13. Froschstein 6 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Veilbronn 145 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.841988, 11.197634
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
ethic
1.1. Adlersteiner Nadel 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.836429, 11.189761
summary
Bizarre little needle that looks like it could topple over any second.
description
Rarely visited, thin tower with an easy arête and a short overhang.
approach
Park at the hiker's parking lot in Veilbronn. Walk back up to the road from Unterleinleiter to Heiligenstadt and follow it to the left. After 100 meters, turn right into the forest onto the hiking trail (blue diagonal bar). Follow this one for about 400 meters (turning left to stay on the path marked by the blue diagonal bar after 100 meters). You should see the rocks up the hill (pathless terrain).
GPS: 11.18979, 49.83643
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Alter Weg
FA: | 3 | 10m | |||
| 2 | Talkante | 4+ | 12m | |||
| 3 | ★ Direkte Westwand | 6- | 8m | |||
| 4 |
★ Westwand / Bergseite
FA: | 3 | 10m, 1 | |||
| 5 | Neue Westwand | 6- | ||||
1.2. Kletterrosenwand 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.836819, 11.189754
approach
GPS: 11.18986, 49.83682
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Aufstieg / Kletterrosenwand
FA: Otto Sommer & Hans Schreiner, 1933 | 6+ | 20m, 6 | |||
| 2 |
Biersack
FFA: Martin Knauer, 2008 | 6+ | 15m, 2 | |||
| 3 |
Fingerfummelei mit Franz
FFA: Raimund Schuh, 2008 | 8- | 15m, 5 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Debüt
FFA: Raimund Schuh, 2008 | 6+ | 15m, 4 | |||
1.3. Delago Gedenkwand 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.837282, 11.189842
approach
GPS: 11.18998, 49.83728
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Delago Gedenkweg
FA: Ferdinand Dassler, 1933 | 6 | 30m, 2, 6 | |||
| 2 | Die Zeit läuft ab / Blue Sweat Shoes | 9- | 15m, 6 | |||
| 3 | Nagelfeile / B3-Schlagerkarussell | 8+ | 15m, 6 | |||
| 4 | Andreas-Link-Anstieg | 8- | 15m, 7 | |||
| 5 | Leinleiterweg | 7- | 15m, 4 | |||
1.4. Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.841223, 11.191880
summary
Massive wall with old alpine classics and a few hard, modern climbs through the steep slabs in the upper half.
description
The wall is separated vertically by the fantastic "Nürnberger Kamin", which also presents the first pitch of the old aid climb "Leo Maduschka Gedenkweg" with its pendulum swing at the end. There's also a clear-cut horizontal break in the wall, separating the brittle, chossy lower half from the compact, smooth slabs at the top. Along this break runs "Auckenthaler Gedenkweg" after starting up in the chimney, then finishing through the dihedral around the corner. The recent additions are worthwhile, hard wall climbs on crimps and slopers.
access issues
This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approach
Park at the hiker's parking lot in Veilbronn. walk back to the street running through the Leinleiter valley and turn right (towards Heiligenstadt) until you find a forest road on your left. Follow this road upwards for 200 meters; here, another faint forest road crosses. Turn slightly right and you can already see the crag up ahead. There is no footpath from here, just walk up to the base.
history
The aid route at the eponymous crag is named after Leo Maduschka, a German mountaineer, author and philologist who died in 1932 in the Dolomites while climbing in the north face of Civetta.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | R18 / Fensterweg | 4 | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Direkter Auckenthaler Gedenkweg | 7- | 25m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Kantenflucht
wie beim Direkten Auckenthaler Ged.-Weg zum Band und dann über 6 Haken zum Umlenker. FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 3 Jun 2022 | 9 | 32m, 14 | |||
| 4 |
Airwaves
FFA: Moritz Welt, 20 Oct 2020 | 10+ | ||||
| 5 |
Pascha
FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2001 | 8 | ||||
| 6 |
Pashanim
Extension of "Pascha" FFA: Moritz Welt, 13 Oct 2020 | 10 | ||||
| 7 | Auckenthaler Gedenkweg | 6- | 30m, 2 | |||
| 8 | ★★ Nürnberger Kamin | 6 | 20m | |||
| 9 |
★ Leo Maduschka Gedenkweg
Second pitch of ”Nürnberger Kamin“. Traverse to the right along the obvious break to an abseil ring. Abseil 8 m and swing to the right. Belay at bolt around the corner, then up the chimney. | 5 A2 | 20m, 2 | |||
| 10 |
Afghan Airways
FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2021 | 8+/9- | ||||
| 11 |
★ Nonstop to Kabul
am vierten Haken von Lammerjappen nach links zum Afghan Airways FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 24 Oct 2021 | 8+/9- | 30m, 10 | |||
| 12 |
★ Evacuation Route
quert am 6. Haken von Lammerjappen nach links ins Afghan Airways FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 24 Oct 2022 | 9- | 30m, 10 | |||
| 13 |
★★★ Lammerjappen
FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2021 | 9+/10- | 30m | |||
| 14 |
Battlefield
FFA: Moritz Welt, 17 Nov 2020 | 10+ | ||||
| 15 |
Totentanz
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2019 | 9 | ||||
| 16 | Rampenweg | 3 | ||||
| 17 |
Sem Chão
FFA: Moritz Welt, 13 Sep 2021 | 10 | ||||
1.5. Totensteinwände 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.842137, 11.192660
access issues
This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approach
GPS: 11.19193, 49.84128
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Linker Teil | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Brutkasten
FFA: Kurt Albert † FA: Albert Engelhardt | 8- | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Alfred Drexel Gedenkweg
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1978 FFA: Ulrich Leuthäuser & Ira v. Schalscha, 1981 | 8- | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Noriswand
FA: Hans Tausendpfund, 1927 FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1978 | 7- | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Erinnerungsweg | 7+ | 30m, 10 | |||||
| 6 | ★★ Noriskante | 7- | 35m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Robert Elsinger Erinnerungsweg
FFA: Burkhard Müller & Norbert Schauer, 2002 | 8 | 22m, 12 | |||||
| 8 | ★★ Burkis Tanz auf der luftigen Wampe | 8+ | 28m, 11 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Reine Nervensache
FFA: Norbert Schauer & Burkhard Müller, 2002 | 8- | 30m, 9 | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Hohe Liebe | 7- | 30m, 8 | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Hohe Liebe direkt | 8- | 28m, 8 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Zugzwang
FFA: Martin Grulich, 1991 | 8- | 28m, 8 | |||||
| 13 |
Maskenpflicht
FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 16 Sep 2020 | 9 | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 14 | Emilienriss, Originalweg | 6+ | 35m | |||||
| 15 |
★ Emilienriss
FA: Armin Erdenkäufer | 6+ | 35m | |||||
Rechter Teil | ||||||||
| 17 | MAD / Alfred E. Neuman Ehrenweg | 7 | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 18 |
Hechtsprung
Set: Burkhard Müller FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2007 | 9- | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 19 | Projekt | |||||||
| 20 | ★★ Nüssel Gedenkweg | 5+ | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 21 |
Falkenweg
The exit is overgrown and dirty. It is advisable to lower off from the bolt above the roof (reachable from good holds). FA: Georg Eichelsdörfer, 1931 | 6+ | 25m, 4 | |||||
| 22 |
★★★ Falkendach / Falkenweg Direktausstieg
FA: Armin Erdenkäufer, 1969 | 7 | 25m, 5 | |||||
| 23 | Erlanger Weg | 6 A1 | 25m | |||||
| 24 | Schmaderer Gedenkweg | 5 A2 | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 25 |
★ Edelweißverschneidung
FA: TWC Edelweiß Bamberg, 1931 | 5+ | 30m, 3 | |||||
| 26 |
Exitus
FFA: Fabian Britz, 23 Sep 2022 | 7+ | 12m | |||||
| 27 |
★★ Comici Gedenkkante / Blaumilchkanal
FFA: Henry Barber, 1979 | 7 | 12m | |||||
1.6. Totenstein 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.842470, 11.193157
summary
Tall tower at the right end of the "Totensteinwände". Good lines in compact rock.
access issues
This crag is usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approach
GPS: 11.19302, 49.84245
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Verstrahlt | 7 | 15m | |||||
/8d/e2/8de2089c2d08d84452233a21610a18273d333491) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Südriss | 5+ | 18m, 2 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Südriss, Ausstiegsvariante | 6- | 18m, 3 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Kreutzerweg
FA: Kreutzer | 5+ | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Südostkante
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2005 | 6+ | 20m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Deis mou her
FFA: Andreas Schelter | 7+ | 18m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Maulfaul
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2005 | 8- | 18m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Direkte Talseite
FFA: Toni Erdenkäufer, 1979 | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 9 | ★ Talseite | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 10 | Linke Nordwand | 6 | 15m | |||||
| 11 | Rechte Nordwand | 6 | 15m, 2 | |||||
1.7. Nervenheilanstalt 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.843732, 11.189788
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Projekt 1 | |||||
| 2 | Zwangsstörung | 6 | 15m | |||
| 3 | Kletternde Psychopathen | 7 | 15m, 5 | |||
| 4 | Freud-volle Kante | 7 | 15m, 4 | |||
| 5 | Wiener Schule | 7 | 15m, 1 | |||
| 6 | Erektile Resonanz | 8 | 15m, 4 | |||
| 7 | Jeanne Immink Gedenkweg | 7- | 15m, 6 | |||
| 8 | Borderline | 7 | 15m, 5 | |||
| 9 | Kognitive Dissonanz | 8- | 15m, 5 | |||
| 10 | Nervenkrieg | 8 | 15m, 6 | |||
| 11 | Therapieverlängerung | 9 | 15m, 7 | |||
| 12 | Kurzzeittherapie | 9-/9 | 15m, 4 | |||
| 13 | Projekt 2 | |||||
| 14 | Lösungen lauern überall | 10- | 15m, 5 | |||
| 15 | Projekt 3 | |||||
| 16 | Projekt 4 | |||||
| 17 | Projekt 5 | |||||
| 18 | Es ist was es ist | 8- | 15m, 5 | |||
| 19 | Am Rande des Wahnsinns | 7+ | 15m, 3 | |||
1.8. Leidingshofer Wand 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.840876, 11.207338
approach
GPS: 11.20743, 49.84089
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Kreutzer Gedenkweg
FA: Ferdinand Dassler & Heiner Hohlig, 1930 | 6+ | 50m, 2, 9 | |||||
| 2 | Fürther Riss / Teufelsweg | 6 A2 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 3 | Shadow of the Day / Weg der Jugend | 8+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 4 | Separate Ways | 9- | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 5 | Lonze | 9 | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 6 | Eine Tour sie zu knechten | 9+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 7 | Karl Diener Gedenkweg | 6- A1 | ||||||
| 8 | Don't Stop Believin' | 9- | 15m, 4 | |||||
1.9. Jugendturm 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.841520, 11.202175
approach
GPS: 11.20224, 49.84156
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nordostkante | 4 | 8m | |||
| 2 | Nordwand | 6 | ||||
| 3 | Alte Südwand | 5- A1 | ||||
| 4 | Westwand | 6 | 10m, 2 | |||
| 5 | Neue Südwand | 6 | 12m, 4 | |||
| 6 | Südriß | 5 | 12m, 2 | |||
| 7 | Ostvariante | 5 | ||||
| 8 | Ostwand | 5 | ||||
| 9 | Boromir | 8+ | 12m, 4 | |||
| 10 | Faramir | 8 | 12m, 4 | |||
1.10. Edelweißblock 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 49.841315, 11.200826
approach
GPS: 11.20087, 49.84131
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Abfallende Dekonippel
FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2012 | 8 | 20m, 6 | |||
| 2 |
Südwand (linker Ausstieg)
FFA: Nils Grube, 2010 | 8- | 20m | |||
| 3 | Südwand (rechter Ausstieg) | 8- | ||||
| 4 | ★ Alte Ostwand | 6- | 20m, 4 | |||
| 5 | Neue Ostwand | 7 | 25m | |||
| 6 |
Weg für Verklemmte
FA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1988 FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2011 | 9- | 25m, 4 | |||
| 7 |
Männer allein im Wald
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2010 | 8+ | 25m, 7 | |||
| 8 |
★ Nordwand
FA: TC Edelweiß Fürth, 1921 | 5+ | 10m, 2 | |||
| 9 | Westwand | 5 A0 | ||||
1.11. Veilbronner Wand 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.841528, 11.199721
summary
Sunny south west face directly above the footpath to the pub-clubhouse "Naturfreundehaus" with technical face climbs.
approach
Drive into Veilbronn via the southernmost turnoff. Just after the small bridge before the village, there is a big hiker's parking lot to the right.
From there, walk into the village and turn east on the little square in front of the hotel Sponsel-Regus. After about 100 meters, a footpath on your left leads directly to the foot of the crag.
Coordinates:
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Rosengartenweg | 7+ | 18m, 6 | |||
| 2 |
Ciao Robert
FFA: Peter Randelzhofer, 2004 | 8+ | 18m, 7 | |||
| 3 |
★★ WS-Weg
FA: Armin Erdenkäufer | 7+ | 18m, 8 | |||
| 4 | ★★ Westverschneidung | 6- | 15m, 7 | |||
| 5 |
Alter Weg
FA: Paul Franz & Karl Franz, 1926 | 6+ | 18m | |||
| 6 |
★ Servus Ossi
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 8- | 17m | |||
| 7 | ★ Alter Weg Direkteinstieg | 7- | 17m | |||
| 8 | Kulmbacher Weg | 7 | 17m | |||
| 9 |
Frischi
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2005 | 7+ | 16m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Trittleiter
FA: Daniel Frischbier, 2004 | 8+ | 16m, 8 | |||
| 11 | Schanzer Weg | 8 | 18m, 6 | |||
| 12 | Forchheimer Weg | 8- | 18m, 7 | |||
1.12. Fürther Wand 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.842785, 11.198732
approach
GPS: 11.19849, 49.84278
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Passion
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2014 | 9 | 15m, 3 | |||
| 2 |
Apache 207
FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, 2019 | 9+/10- | 20m, 4 | |||
| 3 |
★ Tutti Eight / Knüppel
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1982 | 8+ | 15m, 4 | |||
| 4 |
★ Direkte Westwand
FA: Leopold Drechsel, 1968 | 7- | 20m, 10 | |||
| 5 | ★ Unknown | 8- | 18m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Silent Running
FFA: Roger Gösseringer, 1986 | 8- | 18m, 7 | |||
| 7 |
★ IG-Fest
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2005 | 8-/8 | 18m | |||
| 8 |
★★ Laser
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1982 | 8+ | 18m, 6 | |||
| 9 |
★★ Weißer Hai
FFA: Norbert Bätz, 1982 | 7+ | 20m, 8 | |||
| 10 |
★ Dicke Lippe
FFA: Norbert Bätz | 8+ | 20m, 6 | |||
| 11 | ★ Linker Pfeilerriss | 6 | 20m, 3 | |||
| 12 |
aha-Pfeiler
FA: Alfred Hack, 2007 | 7 | 17m, 6 | |||
| 13 | ★ Rechter Pfeilerriss | 5 | 20m, 2 | |||
| 14 |
Frank und frei
FA: Alfred Hack, 1994 | 7 | 20m, 5 | |||
1.13. Froschstein 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.849864, 11.203090
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Der psychische Streß der Bachforelle | 8+ | 12m, 4 | |||
| 2 | Aufgefroscht | 8 | 12m, 4 | |||
| 3 | Ramona links | 8- | 12m, 3 | |||
| 4 | Ramona rechts | 6+ | 12m, 2 | |||
| 5 |
Der Barde besingt die Wunder des Tages
Three pulls on one-finger pockets. Then jump to an invisible jug after roof. FFA: Alex Megos, 19 Aug 2015 | 11 | 12m, 5 | |||
| 6 |
Schattenwurf einer (ab-)gehobenen Beamtin in Bayreuth / Schattenwurf
FFA: Thomas Streng, 2011 | 8- | 10m, 4 | |||
