Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
Thu 26th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ TNT - with Nico Pelorson | 15m | |||||
8+ | ★ Doppelbruch - with Nico Pelorson | 15m | |||||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9 Easy | ★★ El baile de los muertos — 2 attempts - with Ella De Bono | ||||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire - with Ella De Bono | 15m | |||||
8 | ★★ Schieber - with Ella De Bono | 15m | |||||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Drei Jahre | 11m, 3 | |||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | ★★ Ikarus — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
9- | ★★ Ikarus — 3 attempts | 15m | |||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7- | ★★ Endstation | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Ikarus — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | ★★ TNT | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
9- | Ecopoint ★★ TNT — 3 attempts - with aubergino | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- Hard | ★★★ Der letze Tanz | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- Hard | ★★ TNT | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
7- Hard | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | |||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8+ ~9- | ★ Doppelbruch — 2 attempts - with Tanja | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Very spicy bolting like its neighbour TNT
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8 | ★★ Schieber - with Tanja | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire — 2 attempts - with Tanja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | Ecopoint ★★★ Tanz der Vampire — 5 attempts - with Hannes | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | Ecopoint ★★★ Tanz der Vampire — 3 attempts - with NH | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | Ecopoint ★★★ Tanz der Vampire — 6 attempts - with aubergino | 15m | |||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | Ecopoint ★★ TNT - with Tanja | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Mentally demanding climb 😅 Took a few good whippers close to the last bolt
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9- | Ecopoint ★★★ Tanz der Vampire - with Tanja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug | 15m, 6 | |||||
7 | Ostriss - with Ella De Bono | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Drei Jahre - with Ella De Bono | 11m, 3 | Average | ||||
6+ | Alter Weg - with Ella De Bono | 15m | Crap | ||||
This is the worst bolting placements I have seen in my life. The rout could be nice if the bolts made sense though.
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Fri 2nd Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Endstation - with Alberto Sanchez | 15m, 8 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug - with Alberto Sanchez | 15m, 6 | |||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino - with Alberto Sanchez | 12m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with Alberto Sanchez | 12m, 5 | |||||
9- | ★★ Ikarus - with Ella De Bono | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Endstation - with Ella De Bono | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug - with Ella De Bono | 15m, 6 | |||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino - with Ella De Bono | 12m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with Ella De Bono | 12m, 5 | |||||
Fri 5th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino - with Hannes | 12m, 4 | |||||
Thu 4th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz - with Hannes | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz — 3 attempts - with Tanja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 3rd May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz — 4 attempts - with Tanja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 1st May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz - with Tanja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino - with NH | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★ El baile de los muertos — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Der letzte Tanz | 15m | |||||
8+ | ★ Doppelbruch | 15m | |||||
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★ Ikarus | 15m | |||||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Drei Jahre | 11m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ TNT | 15m | |||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Der letze Tanz | 15m | |||||
Tue 21st Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
6+ | Alter Weg - with isi flo pirmin jenia dirk luca jan | 15m | |||||
Geht keine Sau mehr. Vogelnest drin, dreckig, brüchig und zum hohen zweiten Haken schlecht zu legen. Schade, Haken sind gut.
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9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire - with isi flo pirmin jenia dirk luca jan | 15m | |||||
8 | ★★ Schieber - with isi flo pirmin jenia dirk luca jan | 15m | |||||
Wem der Stil liegt, kriegt hier den Grad sehr günstig.
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7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with isi flo pirmin jenia dirk luca jan | 12m, 5 | |||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | |||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire | 15m | |||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | |||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★★ Schieber - with Franzi | 15m | |||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with Franzi | 12m, 5 | |||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino - with Franzi | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 27th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Endstation | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 25th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Schieber | 15m | |||||
Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Little bit confusing at the start. Way better than it looks, really cool route!
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9- | ★★ Ikarus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3 days, 10 tries. 2nd bolt pre-clipped. Short, but every move is quite hard (and reachy)...
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Wed 22nd Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
4 | ★★ Rissverschneidung | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6-
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7- | ★★ Endstation | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Tricky at the end. Way better than it looks! Really fun climb
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Mon 20th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★ El baile de los muertos | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★ El baile de los muertos | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 30th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Pendolino | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with Christoph Rauch | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After we already took down our gear and decided to go fill our stomachs, I couldn't not try Bayern-Ticket in lead again. The inviting slab full of pockets was too tempting. So I decided to try how far I would come. In the end I found a new mega deep mono pocket in between, spontaneously changed plans under the bulge and got to the top without falling. Happy to have tried it again. Very nice, homogenous route with a spicy ending.
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4 | ★★ Rissverschneidung - with Bovist | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
In parts strenuous for the grade, but very well bolted. Hardest parts were on first and third bolts, the rest in between is easy. That may be the reason why one guide graded it a 5-, but other sources a 4. Anyway, I've been in 5. grade routes already that felt easier to me.
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7- | ★★ Bayern-Ticket - with Bovist | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I messed up on the last few meters under the bulge and needed a break to think for a more suitable solution. Optimized my kick to the left wall (nice, daring cruxy part there!). Gave it a thorough brush while lowering afterwards as someone must have emptied their chalk bag over it before we arrived.
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6 | Respekt - with Bovist | 13m, 1 | Average | ||||
6 | Respekt - with monolith | 13m, 1 | Average | ||||
Quite dirty unfortunately, probably rarely climbed because there's no anchor and it's the only climb here that requires nuts and cams. The climbing itself is not bad.
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9- | ★★ TNT - with monolith | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt incredibly difficult for the grade (it's listed as 8+/9- in many guide books) but that might be due to the humid conditions today. Fell off one move before the clipping hold of the last bolt, took a good whipper. Then tried again a few times with the same result, air time deluxe. It seems there was a sling in that bolt quite often, but that takes away half the fun, falling there is perfectly fine. Found a solution slightly to the right of the penultimate bolt that felt controllable afterwards.
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