Ascents in Weidlwanger Wand

habe keine 7+ Lösung gefunden. Vielleicht war die Untergriffkante vor dem 2.H mal griffiger?

The easiest route here, but probably not a good #warmup for most people. Decided to do just that, anyway. Chossy start. I climbed in slightly from the left. Just below the crack, there's a decent placement for a #1. Great rock quality as soon as you're in the crack. Eats protection like mad, too, so you can fully concentrate on the awkward moves. Bomber jams, but far in the back of the crack, so your movement is limited quite a bit. There's an anchor below the vegetation.

Couldn't clip the fourth bolt safely. With my beta, I would have had to skip it, so I decided not to risk it because I was already quite pumped. Extending the draw helps. The most difficult part is to get into the crack, though. In the end I used a gaston on the left to get my right hand up to the good crimp. The good hold to clip the third bolt looks suspiciously glued on.

Once you've passed the nasty wall section, a few pumpy moves on blocky holds get you into a smooth section of the crack with interesting moves. Much easier after that, but very enjoyable.

Fantastic (endurance?) wall climbing on perfect rock structures. Zaphod is supposed to be even better, now I'm curious! High first bolt, best stay a little to the left of it (positive crimps). Reaching the second is safe although it looks scary. Tricky moves lead to a big, diagonal sidepull rail. The hueco at the end looks inviting at first, but turns out to be a sloper. I used the slopy crimp on the right side, though, to get into the next section, which felt like the hardest move of the route. Two moves on and you're juggling big flakes again. Standing up on the flakes into a sensible rest, the style changes again to pockets. The finish can still throw you off, but it's not too bad, go for the holds on the arête!

The crux is actually below the first bolt. Climbed up to just below the bolt two or three times (then climbed back down a bit and jumped off) but didn't find a way to do the last move statically. Not knowing how good the next hold was, I decided to pre-clip it. Would be no problem with a crash pad. The rest is much easier, in nice, black rock.

2nd go. Not so bad. Small holds, no good warm up :-P

2nd go

2nd go

2nd day, some tries. Perfect rock, perfect ciimb...

2nd go. Awesome endurcance climb in perfect rock. First bolt hard to clip, if you are not tall. This is why i preclipped...

Great endurance climb on perfect rock features!

Thx Martin for the hanging draws, a few ticks and the supportive belay through this bouldery dance! Perfect bolting with not too many bolts;)

Spontaneous photo session:) having so manyy footholds is what I love the most

Painful tiny crimps if you do it as the first route but great rock;)

One tricky but not very hard move, from begin to end an endurance problem. Hight first bolt for small people. panic quickdraw recommendable.