Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7+ |
★★ Corazón P1
1
| 36m, 15 | |||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
5- | Ohne 3, Spiel 4 | 10m | Average | ||||
6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
6+ |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!) P1
1
6+
30
| 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6+ | ★ Siglvariante - with Melanie Straubmeier | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Wanted to do this quite a few times already but wasn't sure about the exact line. Found it today (I guess). I put long slings into most of the bolts and continued directly with "Linker Gipfelausstieg".
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9- | ★★ Über den Wolken - with Melanie Straubmeier | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- | ★★ Über den Wolken - with Melanie Straubmeier | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice one. It's crucial for me to leave out the clip in the crux and only use the rusty pegs afterwards. Wouldn't be dangerous even if the pegs break. Without having to clip that bolt, you can quickly power through the boulder moves. The extension adds fantastically to the airiness of the whole endeavour, but is more or less just a bonus, since it's much easier. The original route drove out to the left here.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand - with Melanie Straubmeier | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Rechter Weg - with Melanie Straubmeier | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Good route that avoids the hard sections. Unfortunately, I didn't take yet another look into the old guidebook, so shortly before the finish I didn't notice I had to do another traverse to the left in easy terrain. Instead, I climbed upwards, following obviously polished holds, but it turned out to be a red herring and the polish seems to come from top roping that section, because on lead, it's a 5 m runout at least to easier ground, then yet another 3 meters to the anchor.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand | 25m | |||||
5- | Ohne 3, Spiel 4 | 10m | |||||
6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | |||||
6+ |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!) P1
1
6+
30m
| 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg | 30m | |||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6+ | ★ Siglvariante | 25m | |||||
5- | Ohne 3, Spiel 4 | 10m | |||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | |||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6- |
★ Linker Weg
- with
Jenny
2
5
10
| 38m | ★ Good | ||||
9 | Wolkensteiner Überhang - with Matthias Felix | 45m | |||||
9 | Wolkensteiner Überhang - with Matthias Felix | 45m | |||||
9 | Wolkensteiner Überhang - with Matthias Felix | 45m | |||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Matthias Felix | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7- Hard | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | Crap | ||||
Bruchhaufen
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6 Hard | ★ Schubs mich | 22m | Crap | ||||
Bruchhaufen
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg | 30m | Average | ||||
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg | 30m | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
10 | Wolkenbruch | 32m | |||||
8 | ★★ Wolkenschloss | 37m | |||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg | 37m | |||||
7+ | ★★ Corazón | 36m, 15 | |||||
Thu 19th Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Wolkenschloss | 37m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand | 25m | |||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
Sat 17th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Wolkenschloss - with Dorado | 37m | |||||
I had to rest twice along the traverse because I don't get what to do, but it wasn't that hard after all. There's a good jug at the left, allows for some rest before entering the strenuous layback section. I should try this again in less humid conditions, should be doable!
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7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg - with Dorado | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bit weird to climb in some places, and it gets harder and harder. I only went till the lower anchor...
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7+ | ★★ Corazón - with Dorado | 36m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route! There's about two meters of wet rock when it rains, but it's fine to climb and everything else remains dry.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand - with Dorado | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg - with Daniel | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quick dip.
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Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6 | ★ Schubs mich - with monolith | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with monolith | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did every move except the one at the crux. Very hard for small people. The rest is fantastic homogenous climbing on huge jugs.
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7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The crux seems much harder for smaller climbers. Maybe more on the right of the bolt is a better way then, there are a few holes, even though a bit reachy maybe. Got too dark to try it.
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6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Bovist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
In second the runout to the top seemed reasonably boltet, two 6ish moves over the last bolt and then in 5. grade a few moves to the ledge and from there to the top.
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6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Bovist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't want to do the runout to top bolt in lead. Also my rope would probably have been too short.
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7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with monolith | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Bovist | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Ellen | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Seconded this one because cleaning it from the top would have been hell, probably.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand - with Ellen | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with Ellen | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Ellen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Alter Riss - with Ellen | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
7- 7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Daniel | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Alter Riss - with Daniel | 20m | Average | ||||
I did the spring or rather summer cleaning on this one, lots of vegetation and dirt in the route. Can be extended via the common finishing pitch of "Linker Weg", "Rechter Weg" etc. but this was wet today. The best part is the final dihedral to the anchor of the first pitch. Still decent climbing below, but definitely not on par with the other routes here.
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9- | ★★ Über den Wolken - with Ellen | 40m | |||||
Good overhanging crack with only sidepulls. Didn't manage to get beyond the second bolt in the steep part at first because I didn't realise there was a jug far out on the left. The rest went down easily after I found this. Fantastic exposure, but the climbing is not as good as e.g. Wolkenschloss.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand - with Daniel | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My intention was to climb "Siglvariante" but I messed up again. Couldn't have done it anyway, because "Schubs mich" was occupied. #repeat
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7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with Daniel | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#repeat Had to think again about how to solve the single slab move.
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Thu 19th Sep 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Corazón | 36m, 15 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg | 37m | |||||
Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg - with Alex | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The guy climbing this let me do it on his gear. Still felt hard, but I guess I was a bit anxious to fail again.
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8 | ★★ Wolkenschloss - with Alex | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Strenuous overhanging dihedral. One bolt too many! I wanted to clip it but couldn't, so in the end I just climbed on and it worked out. Great route, but the bolting is bad, be careful, carabiners might break.
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7- |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!)
- with
Alex
1
6+
30m
lead by
Alex
2
7-
17m
| 47m | ★ Good | ||||
The first pitch climbs better than it looks, nice dihedral. The airy second pitch has only two difficult passages, but all in all a nice route with brilliant view from the top.
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Tue 9th Jul 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
Sat 27th Oct 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 7+ | ★★ Corazón - with Teresa | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feels neverending, but actually never tiring, there are quite a few ledges to rest. Great, varied route with fantastic view from the top.
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6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Teresa | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice easier variant of "Wuppdich" with a powerful juggy start.
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7- 7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Teresa | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Good and long. Slight choss on the first third. Nice wall/crack section after the big ledge.
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6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß - with Teresa | 18m | Average | ||||
Nice route on the edge of the crag. Careful in the middle, there are some loose blocks, so better go around left.
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Mon 20th Aug 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6 | ★ Schubs mich - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
juggy start, more technical in the upper part
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7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with Danilo Hondo | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
upper part contains a slab with somewhat lengthy moves.
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Thu 12th Jul 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!)
- with
Nick
1
6+
30m
lead by
Nick
2
7
17m
| 47m | ★ Good | ||||
6- |
★ Linker Weg
1
6-
45m
2
5
3
5+
17
| 62m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand (Unnamed 1) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★ Schubs mich | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
unten steiles Gehenkel, oben plattiger mit Cruxzug, der durch den Speck nicht leichter wird....
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6 | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Kein Highlight, aber ganz nett zum Aufwärmen...
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7 7+ | ★★ Corazón | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Über 30 Meter lang, zwei schwere Stellen. Von unten bis oben tolle Klettermeter...
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Sat 6th Jan 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Hans Sachs Gedenkweg - with Uwe | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first and second bolt are incredibly high; the climbing isn't hard, but today's conditions added to the strain. After that it's great climbing in a shallow dihedral. The last part was wet, so I slipped and decided to lower from there.
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7 | ★ Wuppdich - with Uwe | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Juggy overhang in the beginning to a ledge (bigger distance to the third bolt) and then great wall climbing on big holds, but easier.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand (Unnamed 1) - with Julio | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another very good route, mostly big holds, crux with reachy moves in the upper part after a small ledge.
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7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich - with Uwe | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Long and beautiful climb with a prominent crux in the upper part. Of course, the two-finger pocket in the crux was the only wet hold around, but fortunately it's pretty deep.
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Tue 1st Aug 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★ Wuppdich | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand (Unnamed 1) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8 | ★★ Wolkenschloss | 37m | ★ Good | ||||
Im Nachstieg mit Einstieg Wuppdich geklettert. Crux ist die Querung vor dem Rissscharfes 2Filo mit links, Füße sortieren. Danach ausdauernd kräftig im Riss. zweimal reingesetzt.
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Tue 6th Sep 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 19th Jul 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!)
1
6+
30m
2
7
17m
| 47m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Oberförster Pudlich (Oberforster Pudlich) | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
7 7+ | ★★ Corazón | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
6- | ★ Linker Weg | 60m | |||||
7- | ★★ Oberforster Pudlich | 25m | |||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★ Alter Riss | 25m | |||||
6+ | ★ Bruder Leichtfuß | 18m | |||||
Sun 2nd Oct 2011 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Torsten Schierz | 30m | |||||
zu blöd oben angestellt und Fingerloch übersehen.
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6+ | ★ Alter Riss (Alter Riß) - with Torsten Schierz | 25m | |||||
6- | ★ Linker Weg - with Torsten Schierz | 60m | |||||
nur die letze SL
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