Begehungen in Wolkensteiner Wand

Wanted to do this quite a few times already but wasn't sure about the exact line. Found it today (I guess). I put long slings into most of the bolts and continued directly with "Linker Gipfelausstieg".

Nice one. It's crucial for me to leave out the clip in the crux and only use the rusty pegs afterwards. Wouldn't be dangerous even if the pegs break. Without having to clip that bolt, you can quickly power through the boulder moves. The extension adds fantastically to the airiness of the whole endeavour, but is more or less just a bonus, since it's much easier. The original route drove out to the left here.

Good route that avoids the hard sections. Unfortunately, I didn't take yet another look into the old guidebook, so shortly before the finish I didn't notice I had to do another traverse to the left in easy terrain. Instead, I climbed upwards, following obviously polished holds, but it turned out to be a red herring and the polish seems to come from top roping that section, because on lead, it's a 5 m runout at least to easier ground, then yet another 3 meters to the anchor.

Bruchhaufen

Bruchhaufen

I had to rest twice along the traverse because I don't get what to do, but it wasn't that hard after all. There's a good jug at the left, allows for some rest before entering the strenuous layback section. I should try this again in less humid conditions, should be doable!

Bit weird to climb in some places, and it gets harder and harder. I only went till the lower anchor...

Great route! There's about two meters of wet rock when it rains, but it's fine to climb and everything else remains dry.

#warmup

Quick dip.

Did every move except the one at the crux. Very hard for small people. The rest is fantastic homogenous climbing on huge jugs.

The crux seems much harder for smaller climbers. Maybe more on the right of the bolt is a better way then, there are a few holes, even though a bit reachy maybe. Got too dark to try it.

In second the runout to the top seemed reasonably boltet, two 6ish moves over the last bolt and then in 5. grade a few moves to the ledge and from there to the top.

Didn't want to do the runout to top bolt in lead. Also my rope would probably have been too short.

#repeat

#repeat