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Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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So 28. Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Abendleite | |||||||
6 leicht | ★ Südverschneidung - mit Nick | 18m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
5+ | ★★ Piazriss - mit Nick | 16m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Kann jederzeit zusätzlich abgesichert werden. Zwischen 2.+3.H sollte man das auch.
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5- ~5- | ★ Neue Verschneidung - mit Nick | 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
7 | Pfeilerriss - mit Nick | Durchschnitt | |||||
Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Abendleite | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Piazriss | 16m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mo 10. Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Abendleite | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Piazriss - mit Christoph Rauch | 16m, 3 | ★ Gut | ||||
7+ | ★ Tarantel - mit Christoph Rauch | 25m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★ Südverschneidung - mit Christoph Rauch | 18m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
7+ | ★ Tarantel - mit Daniel | 25m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Slimy hand jam into steep dihedral, followed by a tricky section up and right to the last bolt of "Schöner Weg" (or at least that's how I read the line, didn't see an anchor on the left; merging is the longer option in better rock, anyway).
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6+ | ★ Südverschneidung - mit Daniel | 18m, 4 | |||||
Lots of loose material, unfortunately. Great stemming in the actual dihedral. Avoid the big bulge on the right and stroll up the pocketed wall (thread) to a tree (no fixed anchor).
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5+ | ★★ Piazriss - mit Daniel | 16m, 3 | |||||
#warmup Good dihedral and layback climbing, the third bolt is better used as an anchor nowadays, there's nothing above but vegetation.
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So 1. Mai 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Abendleite | |||||||
5+ | Straßnerpfeiler - mit Christoph Rauch | 30m, 1 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Very loose rock at the lower half.
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6 | ★ Schöner Weg - mit Christoph Rauch | 25m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Better rock quality than the other route we did today. Good climbing with interesting moves.
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5+ | Straßnerpfeiler - mit Bovist | 30m, 1 | ★ Gut | ||||
Long route along the obvious dihedral. The start is quite chossy and unprotected, once you're in the actual dihedral it gets better. Only one "real" bolt, but quite a few pegs, so you don't need too many nuts and cams. Crux is the overhanging part in the middle. The crack was incredibly dirty, but at least it was completely dry. Nice chimney section afterwards. No anchor at the top, you can use a tree to abseil to the anchor of "Tarantel".
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6 | ★ Schöner Weg - mit Bovist | 25m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Starts out as a difficult hike, but turns into quite beautiful wall climbing. The transition is a bit nasty, though, because there are a few loose blocks and you shouldn't take a fall.
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