Begehungen in Schottersmühler Wand

Da ging dann gar nichts mehr

Mega geil und ausreichend abgesichert. Der Erste lässt sich gut anklettern. Oben cool bleiben.

Erster Haken vorgeklippt. Mit diesem auf Bauchhöhe dann nach links an die Kante, kam mir sehr hart für 7 vor. Evtl. gehts direkt irgendwie und ich habs nicht gesehen. Rest OS.

Gnarly roof in airy position. Surprisingly, the newer variant that finishes to the right might be even better. Finding the right holds is the key, and a toe hook helps to get both hands out of the roof.

Long traverse to the right from the ledge beneath the "Buhldach" in good rock. Not 100% clear where the traverse ends, you can finish up right after the (empty) book case or traverse further to the finish of "Schiefer Oskar", which is what I did.

Good climbing along an obvious crack. The start is the hardest part, which is probably also the reason why the line was developed relatively late. The big flakes in the crack sound funny, but should be fine.

Rough start, there's hardly a position between the first and the second bolt where you could rest to put in some protection. A bit easier from the second bolt to the overhang, then a strenuous sequence in perfect rock to the anchor. Quite a lot of tickmarks there, quick reminder to all folks out there to brush the route once you're done.

Tough start. Already quite bold to clip the first bolt, then a short crack boulder in the overhang leads to easier terrain with lots of good placements. Beautiful climbing on cracks and flakes. I wonder what old route the big rusty ring in the upper third belongs to?

The original start is a bit bold, especially considering the rock quality, but the climbing is easy. Climbed the original finish traversing to the arête on the right. The "alternative finish" is probably the crack on the left.

A bit scary from the second to the third bolt (possible grounder); I placed a tiny nut to ease my mind, not sure if the rock would have been strong enough to hold a fall. Huge runout after the fourth bolt, too, a good nut or small cam protects the last meter to the bolt in the overhang. Awesome moves through the overhanging crack, then a few meters of nice pockets and a hidden clipping hold for the anchor.

How could I not remember that I've done this? It even seems from my log entry that I've done it in a similar fashion … whatever, I enjoyed it quite a lot today even though the dihedral was wet. That lower part alone is fantastic. And the exposed finish is quite amazing. Maybe I went too far up below the roof today? I grabbed some of the wet holds, reached out to the right, built up body tension to get my left hand over, but then swung out and lost my feet, barely staying on. After a few desperate moves, I threw up my right leg into a hook around the arête, which miraculously worked, so i could work my way to the jugs. #lastrouteoftheday #repeat

Really good route with fantastic rock after the first few meters. It's actually just "Abendweg" with a direct start and a slightly more direct finish. #warmup #repeat

I have no recollection of my 2017 visit here. Christoph Rauch had placed one nut in the middle, the only place where the next bolt was a bit far.