Begehungen in Waischenfelder Turm

#1stGo

Left index finger started to show some signs of the sharp hold just before the finish. ;-)

It almost became too easy because there are two no-hand rests in the route.

Decided to go for one last top-rope lap without using the rests; I made some mistakes and had to improvise, especially in the upper part, but had enough strength left to finish it.

#warmup go, which was actually quite effective. Had frozen fingers around the third bolt and fell off, but it gradually improved and I finished the route from there.

Felt quite solid, I remembered some good beta in the lower section which makes it relatively easy. Decided to just do laps on this one.

Schon bis zum Übergang nicht geschenkt und dann geht's zur Sache. Heute blieb der Umlenker unerreicht.

Kratziger Einstiegsboulder, danach coole Wandkletterei bis zu den zwei Bäuchen, die die Crux darstellen. Keine Schlüsselzüge, eher Ausdauerlastig.

Kleiner Einstiegsboulder, danach ne schöne Wand mit Abschlussbauch.

Schönes Warmup.

Little boulder in the beginning, then mantle and endurance. I like!

Long dynamic moves in the crux.

Great pocket climb with two difficult passages over the bulges. Fell off the first one because there are quite a few possibilities and I didn't put enough steam behind my last move to reach the jug.

Used a hold I didn't realise was there in the first crux, which made it easier. The upper part is also quite manageable if you know where the holds are.

Felt even better than last time. Great route, not your everyday Frankenjura stuff.

#warmup

Perfect resistence climbing on 2 fingerpockets! Hanging draws and suitable beta by Kev made everything quite relaxed:) anyway strange bolt positions!

Luckily wasn't a nightmare for me;)

#2go The best coice for sunny winterdays! Surprisingly close on the flash by falling at the last draw due to a wet hold... as the rock ws even more soaked the next try, I truly had to improvise right before the chains with a fun cut loose:)

The tickmarks saved me through these big powerful moves!

Did the left exit first but imo it doesn't shares any of the hard part... tricky undercling section starting on soaked holds!

Finally back here with my fav person! Couldn't be better:) only those with chocolate topping will make you stronger;)

Technical passage at the second bolt, then a steep bulge, holdless at first sight. Went around slightly right, then up to a hole with a good sidepull. The finish is quite hard to decipher, in the end I just crimped hard on everything I could grab. Not exactly an ideal #warmup.

High first bolt (there used to be a sling below it?) and the last meter isn't 100% safe, take care. Cool gaston move afterwards into nice pockets, then a great rockover to a two-fingers slit, traverse to the right on crimps, a hard move up to a sidepull which is a bit awkward to sort in. Then the crux section starts with a small pocket, a cross move to a bad sidepull pinch and a dynamic move to a good crimp with a hidden pocket. From there it's a runout to the anchor on mediocre holds.

Climbed up to the crux but was too pumped to continue. Climbed the crux again after a short break and jumped down quite high in the runout for the air miles.

Desperate last light attempt; couldn't clip the bolt before the crux anymore …