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Zehnerstein Guide

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Ascents: 851
  • Aka: Wolfsberger Felsentor

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Alma Campbell Gome LMD Peter Betz Thomas Hoffmann David M. Dave Bovist

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Zehnerstein 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.687574, 11.303294

description

High, classic tower throning over the first houses of the village Wolfsberg. First climbed probably before 1900 and with over 30 routes ranging from UIAA 2 to 9-, the rock is one of the most popular crags in the Trubach valley.

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

approach

Park at the sports field of Wolfsberg. Cross the street and follow the small road uphill into the village to the right for 50 meters. Then take a sharp left; after a few meters, a small path branches off to the right, leading to the rock.

ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
inherited from Frankenjura Nord
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Wolfsberger Felsentor

2 Sitting Duck 4 Sport 6m
3 Flying Duck 6 Sport 10m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Neuland unterm Pflug

FA: Alma, 2011

7+ Sport 10m, 3
5 Polly Tour / Schonunger Weg

FA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1982

FFA: Alma, 2011

6 Sport 10m, 3
6 Alter Weg 6- Sport 15m
7 Jürgen Frey Gedenkweg

FA: Paul Schelhorn & Fritz Sticht, 1969

5 Sport 20m, 4
8 Bald zu viert

FA: Gabi Menning, 2001

4+ Sport 8
9 Westriss / Schartenriss

FA: Oskar Bühler, 1929

2 Trad 20m
10 Höllenstiege 5- Sport 20m, 2
11 Schartenwand

FA: Fritz Sticht, 1971

5+ Sport 20m

Nordseite

13 Normalweg / Alter Weg 2 Trad 20m
14 Nordverschneidung 5 Sport
15 Nordrippe 5 Mixed trad 20m, 2
16 Nordriss 5+ Mixed trad 20m, 2
17 Nordwestkante 6- Mixed trad 20m, 1
18 Direkte Nordwestkante

Climbs the exciting blade at the top!

6- Mixed trad 20m, 2

Westseite

20 Westschleife 5+ Mixed trad 25m, 2
21 Alte Westwand

FA: Zehner, 1906

3 Trad 20m, 2
22 Solleder Gedenkweg

If you don't know how to jam, add a grade.

FA: G. Treutlein, 1934

6 Sport 30m
23 Oma Eichler 6 Sport 30m
24 Kauperriss 6- Sport 30m, 5
25 Lineal 7- Sport 30m
26 Linke Tour

Easy alternative beginning for the routes starting on the ledge.

Starts on the left side of the wall, can be climbed as an individual pitch ending in the middle, or extended to the top via "Solleder" or "Oma Eichler" at Grade 6.

FA: Matthias Engelhardt, 2004

5- Sport 18m
27 Südwestkante / Neue Westwand

Gets hardly ever done but it has a very good top section on fantastic rock!

FA: 1931

4 Sport 30m
28 Gerade Westwand / Alte Westwand 4+ Sport 30m, 6
29 Kurze Langeweile 5 Sport 30m, 9
30 Neuer Alter Hut 6+ Sport 30m
31 Umleitung 8- Sport 30m
32 Südweg

From the big ledge of "Erinnerungsweg" to the left into "Gerade Westwand", then back right to "Südwestkante".

FA: 1931

6- Sport 35m
33 Erinnerungsweg 9- Sport 30m
34 Buchnerpfeiler

The inspiring looking arête high up.

FFA: Rudi Borschert, 1997

9- Sport 30m

Südostseite

36 Andi

FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998

7+ Sport 30m
37 Affenschaukel / Toni Schmid-Gedenkweg

An absolute classic test piece for the grade.

FA: Max Hofmann & Ludwig Höllein, 1933

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981

8- Sport 30m
38 Seifertriss

This greasy classic will test the average sport climber's skills, and who can climb cracks on limestone anyway …

FA: Rudolf Seifert, Alfred Seifert & Oskar Bühler, 1929

6+ Sport 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Satisfaction

FFA: A. Engelhardt, 1983

8+ Sport 22m, 5
40 You're the Pretender

Sehr schöne Kletterei in guter Felsqualität. Eigener Umlenker (gedoppelt) rechts von "Satisfaktion". Der Albrecht-Wolf-Jordan Gedenkweg geht zu dem auch neuen und gedoppelten Umlenker/Standplatz in der Scharte am Gipfel.

FA: Thomas Hoffmann, 6 Jul 2022

6+ Sport 22m, 8
41 Albrecht-Wolf-Jordan-Gedenkweg

Different possibilities for the start, we recommend to start from the chimney/crack on the right to reach the high 1st bolt easily from the ledge.

FA: O. Sigl & H. Dietz, 1962

6+ Sport 22m
42 Ostverschneidung 5- Mixed trad 22m, 2
43 Zwei Jahre Später

some quite funky climbing, and some amazing bridging high up!

7 Sport 28m, 7
44 Himmelsleiter 5+ Mixed trad 22m, 3
45 Heini Meth Gedenkweg

The first bolt is quite high but it’s not hard to get to.

6+ Sport 25m, 4
46 Unnamed 1 5 Sport 20m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
2 Normalweg Trad 20m
Westriss Trad 20m
3 Alte Westwand Trad 20m, 2
4 Sitting Duck Sport 6m
Südwestkante Sport 30m
4+ Bald zu viert Sport 8
Gerade Westwand Sport 30m, 6
5- Höllenstiege Sport 20m, 2
Linke Tour Sport 18m
Ostverschneidung Mixed trad 22m, 2
5 Jürgen Frey Gedenkweg Sport 20m, 4
Kurze Langeweile Sport 30m, 9
Nordrippe Mixed trad 20m, 2
Nordverschneidung Sport
Unnamed 1 Sport 20m, 5
5+ Himmelsleiter Mixed trad 22m, 3
Nordriss Mixed trad 20m, 2
Schartenwand Sport 20m
Westschleife Mixed trad 25m, 2
6- Alter Weg Sport 15m
Direkte Nordwestkante Mixed trad 20m, 2
Kauperriss Sport 30m, 5
Nordwestkante Mixed trad 20m, 1
Südweg Sport 35m
6 Flying Duck Sport 10m, 5
Oma Eichler Sport 30m
Polly Tour Sport 10m, 3
Solleder Gedenkweg Sport 30m
6+ Albrecht-Wolf-Jordan-Gedenkweg Sport 22m
Heini Meth Gedenkweg Sport 25m, 4
Neuer Alter Hut Sport 30m
Seifertriss Sport 30m
You're the Pretender Sport 22m, 8
7- Lineal Sport 30m
7 Zwei Jahre Später Sport 28m, 7
7+ Andi Sport 30m
Neuland unterm Pflug Sport 10m, 3
8- Affenschaukel Sport 30m
Umleitung Sport 30m
8+ Satisfaction Sport 22m, 5
9- Buchnerpfeiler Sport 30m
Erinnerungsweg Sport 30m
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