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Ascents in Oberharz by Tobias Auth

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Showing all 32 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 28th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Vorblöcke Kapuzenkuppe
5A Dammriss Boulder 2m Good
#barefoot while others were projecting "Bahnverbindung".

 
Wed 28th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Kuschietentalgruppe Tank Opferstock
7B+ Fynndlings Götti - with Michael Rausch Boulder
Tried to do the first move with Micha's beta but couldn't generate enough pull with the toe hook. Seemed crazy hard!

 
Mon 26th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll
5C+ First Blood - with Jannis Z, Hanka Boulder 2m Very Good
Cool gaston finger lock!

 
Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic
7B Blechschaden Boulder 3m Mega Classic
Pulled hamstring on my first go of the day. Should've sent yesterday.

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Kapuzenkuppe
5A How High - with Micha Rausch Boulder 4m Very Good
Nice line! Traverse finish and not all the way up.

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Meteorit
6B+ Granitsurfer - with Marko, Micha Boulder 3m
Getting into that sidepull seemed impossible. Different beta?!

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic
6B Gallionsfigur Boulder 3m Classic
Warm-up. More exciting than last time because it already got dark.

 
7B Blechschaden - with Jannis, Hanka Boulder 3m Mega Classic
Unexpected progress during 2 hour sundown session. Got all moves to the top hold and fell with the right hand on the top of the block because of the blind top out/ couldn't see foothold. Beta was locking both arms completely on the first move and reaching the crimp statically with a heel hook. Sharp crystal for the middle finger more or less. Matching the crimp, flag left leg with pressure on the tip. Controlled dynamic move to the sloper rail.

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll
5C Sex hoch vier - with Hanka, Jannis Boulder 2m Good
Very short and juggy but an interesting mantle.

 
5B Blutzoll - with Hanka, Jannis Boulder 2m Good
Weird that it starts on the block.

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Buddha
5C 6A Bandha - with Hanka, Jannis Boulder 2m Very Good
Very short but two nice moves on cool holds. Felt more like 5B/C to me.

 
5A Mikado - with Hanka, Jannis Boulder 2m Good
Started in the overhang but with feet on another small block. Fun!

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Flash Ziegenrückenturm
6B Exodus - with Michael Rausch, Marko Rausch Boulder 4m Very Good
Cool problem on the right side of an arête. Feels impossible at first. Granite smearing, balance and slopers.

 
Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Flash Flash
6B 6A Anfang - with Marko Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder 4m Very Good
Hard! Juggy on sharp slots and a very specific "smear, stand up and reach" problem at the very top. I saw 7a/b boulderers not sending.

 
Thu 22nd Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic
5B Linker Mantle - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder
5B Der Gaucho - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder
4 Rechter Mantle - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder
6C+ Bullauge - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder 3m
Tough problem with a undercut/sidepull disk.

 
7B Blechschaden - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder 3m Mega Classic
Could imagine doing this as my first Boulder of the grade. Starting from the crimp, I almost got it. Maybe one inch short on the first move.

 
6B Gallionsfigur - with Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch Boulder 3m Classic
Great variety of moves. Sloper, edges, pinch, kneebar, mantle. Awesome. 2nd go.

 
Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Ziegenrückengruppe Schlösschen
5C Augenzwinkern - with Katrin Bauer Boulder 5m
More pads and spotters needed.

 
4 Pompe - with Katrin Bauer Boulder 5m Good
Katrin's erster draußen-boulder. Ziemlich hoch dafür!

 
Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Ziegenrückengruppe Michelangelo
7A+ Michelangelo - with Katrin Bauer Boulder 4m
Mon 5th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Ziegenrückengruppe Schlösschen
4 Abstiegsmantle - with Katrin Bauer Boulder 2m
5B Sehhilfe - with Katrin Bauer Boulder 4m Very Good
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Adlerklippe
7- Ganz großes Kino - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 35m, 7 Very Good
Wow, so much friction! Not sure if I bypassed the 2nd crux by climbing the big flake 5 meters right of the last bolt (Last big ledge). Would've been the most awkward, reachy sloper move ever if I didn't. Nevertheless: The steep part is amazing! Didn't place any gear (no obvious placements in the spots where you'd want them, I think). Run-out that way in the first half but it was easy enough to still feel comfortable.

 
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe
7 Rechte Pfingstkante - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 24m, 2 Very Good
Rad moves at the top where the wall feels 2° overhanging. Definitely the hardest climbing I did in Okertal so far. After some playing around while lowering from the neighboring route, I figured I wanted to do it. Put some nuts in at the top beforehand. One of them I could not get out anymore. 1st bolt looks good. 2nd one on the "head wall" not so much. (used additional gear).

 
6 6- Einfache Variante - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 25m, 1 Good
Good route! I see the point in british grades now. Not too hard but heady!! Good placements for big wires half way to the first bolt but then not much above. Used a 2nd bolt though.

 
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Oberharz
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe
5+ 4+ Ostwand-Verschneidung direkt - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 30m, 1 Very Good
Great! According to my topo I did "Ostwand-Verschneidung Direkt 4+". The second half is really adventurous, immersive and not too easy! First try, it felt like oldschool, french 5c. The placements there are bomber though! Big wires and a red tourque-nut in my case. Dragon #3 and/ or 4 useful for the initial slab.

 
4 Kamera-Pfeiler - with Katrin Bauer Trad 21m Good
When I did this, I wasn't aware that I was doing it all trad because the dragon #3 that was still in, from doing the route next to this, seemed like such a good placement. That was also where the climbing was the hardest.

 
7- Hühnerstallkante Direkter Einstieg (Direkte Hühnerstallkante) - with Katrin Bauer Sport 20m, 4 Very Good
Linked both direct variants, using all 5 bolts. Too exciting as a warm up but great! Nice and technical with an awkward crux above the 2nd bolt and a slab crux higher up. The top part is easy but run-out. Dragon #3 and red torque nut to mitigate. My first route in this area.

 
6+ Hui Buh - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 21m, 2 Good
Technical but easy below the first bolt. The rooflet itself is a little hard to read but fun.

 

Showing all 32 ascents.

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