Harz + Harzvorland Guide

Summary:

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A

M

J

A

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.764794, 10.801541

description

Der Harz, bis ins Mittelalter Hart (‚Bergwald‘) genannt, ist ein Mittelgebirge in Deutschland und das höchste Gebirge Norddeutschlands. Er liegt am Schnittpunkt von Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt und Thüringen. Anteil am Harz haben im Westen die Landkreise Goslar und Göttingen, im Norden und Osten die Landkreise Harz und Mansfeld-Südharz und im Süden der Landkreis Nordhausen. Der Brocken ist mit 1141,2 m ü. NHN der höchste Berg des Harzes und Sachsen-Anhalts.

Die Bergwelt des Harzes wurde schon in früheren Zeiten für ausgedehnte Wanderungen genutzt (u. a. von Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine und Hans Christian Andersen). Neben dem Okertal und der Roßtrappe bei Thale sind auch die Hohneklippen (Höllenklippe und Feuerstein bei Schierke) das Ziel von Kletterern.

Quelle: Wikipedia

Mehr Informationen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

access issues

Aktuelle Informationen zu ganzjährigen und saisonalen Sperrungen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

Bitte Ausschilderung und Absperrungen beachten !

Zonenregelung

Zone I: Tabuzone (ganzjähriger Verzicht bzw. Sperrung, Ruhezone)
Zone II: Status-Quo-Zone (Klettern nur auf den bestehenden Routen, keine Neutouren)
Zone III: Entwicklungszone (Neutouren möglich)

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.007669, 10.216795

description

The Bodensteiner Klippen are located in the south of the Hainberg ridge of mountains, only several kilometers north-west of the Harz Mountains.

It is the largest concetration of sandstone in Lower Saxony. Most cliffs are not very high, routes are usually around 10m long. The 'Wachtmeister' is an exception with 20m.

The original climbing style is traditional climbing like in Sächsische Schweiz. You have to build your own protection. For the soft sandstone the saxon material (slings with knots, UFOs) is appropriate. guidebook "Paules Kletterbibel Bodensteiner Klippen", ISBN 978-3980647335

On some cliffs like Südlicher Steinbruch or Rechter Steinbruch modern sportclimbing has arrived. guidebooks/sources?

And third but least bouldering is practiced. You will find chalked blocks around in the woods. guidebook "Harz Bloc" (it would be nice if somebody would add the boulders here)

access issues

The Hainberg, and therefore the Bodensteiner Klippen, are a Natura2000 nature protection area, highest protection the EU can offer, so mind your step. Always check regulations, closures and zoning:

Due to a dispute with the owner, climbing is only allowed in the district of Goslar (southern area). Everything south of 'Strauchköpfe' is part of Goslar. Check the links above for more information.

For your own safety: On some cliffs someone sawed off the bolts. Check the conditions of the bolts before use.

Also, don't argue with local hunters, you might get shot.

approach

The best way to approach is from Bodenstein. There are two parking spots:

Approximately 1km west, in the direction of the A7.
Last street on the left side before leaving town in the direction of Neuwallmoden.

From there just follow the forest roads north.

ethic

Please:

do not climb wet sandstone¹
do not use chalk²
no smoking, no wildfire
do not remove any plants etc
the forest is not a toilet
do not leave any waste
avoid the district of Wolfenbüttel⁴

¹Sandstone absorbs water and dissolves the clay inside the rock which holds the quartz together. Do not climb after rain, let the rock dry for at least 2 sunny sommer days, otherwise it will just break.

²Its hygroscopic property also makes the holds slick, since it will not wash out - it clogs the surface of the sandstone, the stone can no longer dry. AND we don't want to run foul with the owner and forester.

⁴See "Access issues" above.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.003782, 10.214519

summary

good map

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.011821, 10.218540

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.794480, 11.084136

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.866858, 11.067802

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.855032, 11.018290

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.842053, 11.002075

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.811490, 11.054234

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.801134, 11.076252

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.814667, 10.960548

access issues

==[de]==

Sämtliche Felsen des Regensteins befinden sich in einem Militärischem Sperrgebiet. Das Klettern sowie das Betreten der Felsen mit Ausnahme des "Burgwächter" und "Papenwand" ist in diesem Raum verboten. Für weitere Informationen siehe:

==[en]==

All cliffs are inside a military zone. Therefore, climbing is not permitted in this area. The only exception is the "Burgwächter" and "Papenwand". For further informations please refer to:

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.764671, 11.083979

access issues

==[de]==

Der Großteil der Felsen ist für das Klettern gesperrt, die Ausnahme bilden Einzelfelsen der Blankenburger und der Timmenröder Teufelsmauer, sowie Teile des Großen Gegensteins. Bis auf letzteren wird vom Klettern eher abgeraten, da das Gestein sehr weich ist. Um das Kletterverbot und damit den Schutz der Natur zu gewährleisten werden einige Felsen überwacht. Magnesiaverbot.

Für Änderungen und säsonale Regelungen auf http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/ nachsehen.

==[en]==

Climbing is banned on most cliffs, all cliffs are closed, except for parts of the Blankenburger and the Timmenröder Teufelsmauer, and parts of the "Großer Gegenstein". Except for the latter, climbing cannot be recommended because of the excessively soft rock. In order to conserve the nature and to enforce the prohibition, some cliffs are observed. No chalk allowed.

For updates on seasonal closures please consult http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.852581, 10.983236

description

Sandstone boulders in a pine cove vaguely reminiscent of Fontainebleau

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.844089, 11.019054

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.839679, 10.894409

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.843254, 10.879375

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.792621, 10.447673

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.915418, 10.467000

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.861131, 10.585171

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.856858, 10.594734

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.847400, 10.662810

description

==[en]==

Dieses Gebiet befindet sich im Vogelschutzgebiet. Damit die Natur geschützt wird und auch in Zukunft ein Klettern im Harz möglich ist, sollten die hier gelisteten Felsen nicht betreten werden.

==[en]==

This area is inside a bird sanctuary. To save the natural environment and to ensure permissions for climbing in the future, climbing trespassing should be avoided.

access issues

==[de]==

Sämtliche Felsen im Ilsenburger Raum sind gesperrt, bis auf die Stumpfrückenspitze.

Ein ein Betreten der gesperrten Felsen ist nicht gestattet.

==[en]==

All cliffs in the "Ilsenburger Raum" are closed, with the exception of the Stumpfrückenspitze. Climbing or walking on the cliffs is not permitted.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.841340, 10.268630

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.852570, 10.464496

description

The Okertal is easily the largest climbing area in the Harz Mountains and second largest in Northern Germany. The rock is mostly granite, but some Hornfels and Slate/lydite (Kieselschiefer) can be found too. For the most part the routes are single pitch routes, but also nice multi-pitch routes e.g. 'Großer Kurfürst', Adlerklippen.

Be aware that the Okertal is mainly trad climbing, you should bring nuts and cams.

Guidebooks:

Rockclimbing: Harz Rocks 1 (Westharz/Okertal), (outdated: Paules Kletterbibel Westharz)
Bouldering: Harzblock

Additional Links:

IG Klettern Niedersachsen

access issues

The Okertal is a nature protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet). Parts are Natura2000 area and some cliffs may be closed from February to July due to nesting falcons.

See: IG Klettern Niedersachsen - Closures

IG Klettern Niedersachsen - zoning

approach

All cliffs are accessible within 5 to 45 minutes from the B498.

Car: Parking spots are very limited within the valley. You might consider using the parking lots at the start and end of the Okertal:

Public transportation: From the train station Goslar-Oker you can use the bus to Waldhaus. From the train station Bad Harzburg you can use the bus to Kästeklippen.

See: Network map

where to stay

Hotels:

Since Goslar and the Harz are a tourist destination, you can choose from a variety of hotels, but there is also one directly in the valley:

Hotel Waldhaus

Camping:

Youth hostel:

Jugendherberge Goslar

Other:

Pension An der Laute

ethic

Please stop wild camping in the Okertal!

Please stop making barbecues, it smells, it starts wild fires, it leaves waste!

All that endangers our permission to climb here!

Chalk:

It is allowed, BUT clean up your marks. As most of the stone is dark, it is much to visible. We like to search for holds ourselves.

Bolts/Anchors:

Most easier routes do not have bolts, only harder ones are sparsely bolted. Anchors are single glued in steel rings in most cases.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.852349, 10.547414

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.809604, 10.495228

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.800778, 10.551400

access issues

Dieses Gebiet befindet sich im Nationalpark. Damit die Natur geschützt wird und auch in Zukunft ein Klettern im Harz möglich ist, sollten die hier gelisteten Felsen nicht betreten werden.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.804653, 10.687432

access issues

==[de]==

Die Meisten Felsen in diesem Bereich sind Teil des Nationalparks. Daher ist das Klettern auf allen Felsen nicht gestattet. Die Ausnahme bilden die folgenden Felsen: Ottofelsen, Untere Silberwand, Obere Silberwand, Gebohrter Stein.

==[en]==

Most cliffs are inside the national park. Therefore, climing on those cliffs is not permitted. The exceptions from this rule are: Ottofelsen, Untere Silberwand, Obere Silberwand, Gebohrter Stein.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.761185, 10.672636

access issues

==[de]==

Alle Felsen, bis auf die "Schnarcherklippen" (Zone III) befinden sich im Naturschutzgebiet und sind der Zone II zugeordnet (klettern auf bestehenden Routen/keine Neutouren).

==[en]==

All cliffs, with the exception of the "Schnarcherklippen" (zone III) are part of a national park and assigned to zone II (climbing only on existing routes, no new routes permitted).

where to stay

==[de]==

In Schierke befindet sich ein Campingplatz. Des Weiteren sind zahlreiche Ferienwohnungen/Hotels in Schierke vorhanden.

==[en]==

In Schierke a camping site, multiple hotels and vacation homes are available.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.747178, 10.394201

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.744528, 10.606718

access issues

==[de]==

Alle Felsen im Wurmberg-Gebiet sind gesperrt (Zone I). Die einzige Ausnahme bildet der "Wurmberg-Steinbruch", welcher der Zone II und III zugeordnet wurde. Für mehr Informationen siehe:

==[en]==

All cliffs are assigned to Zone I (climbing is not permitted). The only exception if the "Wurmberg-Steinbruch" which is assigned to Zone II and Zone III. For more details, please refer to:

approach

==[de]==

Für den Zustieg gelten besondere Einschränkungen. Bitte folgen Sie den Anweisungen des IG-Klettern-Niedersachen:

==[en]==

Accessing the cliffs permitted under various restrictions. Please follow the instructions from the IG-Klettern-Niedersachsen:

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.696477, 10.427671

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.685963, 10.562720

description

190 m²

Alte Northeimer Str. 7A, Osterode am Harz

Tel: Jürgen Kraft

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.923058, 10.328692

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.672852, 10.881322

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.593539, 10.776426

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.731568, 11.029487

summary

With 24 natural rock formations and 3 quarries developed for climbing, the Steinbachtal is the largest climbing destination in the eastern Harz mountains.

description

According to Paules Kletterbibel, the Steinbachtal is presumably the most visited subarea in the Ostharz. It features well-developed cliffs - which means that everything you see has likely been climbed and named, but not necessarily bolted. The rock is generally of good quality but very dissected, rarely forming larger continuous faces.

The natural cliffs and spires are (mostly) traditionally protected and require experience placing gear.

If you are more comfortable climbing sport, most routes in the newly developed quarries are fully bolted.

access issues

Die Felsen sind der Zone 3 zugeordnet (kein Neutourenverbot).

No fires from Waldbrandstufe 2 on. Camping only if permitted by the property owner.

approach

When arriving by public transit, use the bus running from Thale train station to "Abzweig Hexentanzplatz"

When arriving by car: (51.731698, 11.030021)

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.724805, 11.069099

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.756633, 10.860307

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.613979, 10.494355

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.629063, 10.408894

summary

Dolomite climbing on the outer cliffs of a castle ruin.

Excellent rock quality and protection.

approach

Take the train to Barbis, walk/bike from there.

(51.6257048, 10.4174852)

(51.6297238, 10.4091573)

history

Erected in the 10th century, Scharzfeld Castle was considered impregnable until it was captured and destroyed by french troops in 1761 as part of the seven years war.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.618877, 10.406538

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.640598, 10.368630

access issues

https://ig-klettern-niedersachsen.de/klettergebiete/alle-klettergebiete-in-niedersachsen/sudharz/knickelberg/

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 51.575448, 10.524573

summary

Wooded hill with 6 climbable cliffs

description

Situated on a wooded hill, the Römerstein is a natural monument composed of 6 dolomite outcroppings.

The crags are the fossilized remains of roughly 250 million year coral reef. The cone-shaped reef likely formed on the summit of a small volcano that was covered by the epicontinental Zechstein sea.

access issues

Please respect the new climbing zoning:

Climbing is banned on the right side of the "Hauptfelsen" cauldron, as well all vegetated rock faces and summits. First ascents are not permitted, with the exception of the "Übungsfelsen".

The crag is part of a nature preserve, so please behave accordingly.

Amtsblatt Landkreis Göttingen

https://ig-klettern-niedersachsen.de/klettergebiete/sudharz/romerstein/

approach

Ecopoint:

Take the train to Scharzfeld-Barbis, from there either bike or take the bus to Steina.

By car:

from north/west (51.5854269, 10.5223206)

from south/east (51.5663014, 10.5224703)

ethic

Most routes are bolted in a traditional style - i.e. only where protecting with gear is not practical. This means most routes are on a spectrum between "trad" and "sport" - the listed gear styles are only a rough guide.